[vinceofarrell]

Re: Bosch WFM3030GB/02 motor not rotating

Thanks Martin for the link. I used that part – a pair of new brushes – and bodged a fix which is working well. The basic problem with this model of motor is that the brush housing is a large item not designed for brush replacement alone. Replacement brush units are a significant part of the complete motor assembly and cost over £50.

Small difficulties to be aware of when using this approach:
– ensuring the new brushes when fixed have long enough leads to reach, given that brushes are at their maximum (new) length. Need to cut off old brushes and new push-on tags to leave maximum lengths of braid to be connected.
– soldering the new copper braid leads to the old apparently steel braid leads. My iron being designed for modern electronic circuitry was not really powerful enough.
– ensuring the braid conductors are insulated – I used tape after realising the possible shorting risk – so that there is no risk of them shorting against the motor casing.
– making sure the conducting pins which mate with connectors on the motor body align properly before bolting the complete unit together again.

Thanks again for saving me over £40.

Vince O’Farrell

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Electrolux TR1178S – fridge not cooling – freezer OK

New VT9 stat seems to cut out/in at lower temps than original so I need to turn dial down to about 2 to arrange for temp in centre of fridge to be 3-4 degrees. Previously, it was set to middle of range, 4. Otherwise, working fine. Thanks again for help.

Vince

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Electrolux TR1178S – fridge not cooling – freezer OK

New VT9 fitted and fridge working again. Will monitor temps and settings over next few days and post hopefully the final result.

Thanks for assistance.

Vince

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Electrolux TR1178S – fridge not cooling – freezer OK

OK. Got it out. Needed to break off bottom few inches of looped old capillary, then it came out with a struggle.

Mike: No obvious screws holding it in position – front of evaporator is just a flat featureless plate.

Now to fit new VT9.

Thanks for all the support so far.

Vince

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Electrolux TR1178S – fridge not cooling – freezer OK

Yes, that’s what I’m trying to do but there is something stopping it. I’ve already broken the sheet of glass over the chiller boxes at the bottom through the force I’m applying.

Questions:

1. The loop poking out the bottom of the tube and which I can pull so that it is visible below the evaporator panel seems to be plastic covered steel rod and not flexible capillary. Any thoughts on what its purpose is and how it is joined to the capillary? I’m tempted to try and cut it off or would it be better to cut off the capillary near the top of the panel?

2. The evaporator panel seems to be held in place in a vertical slot in each side of the cabinet side mouldings. Would you expect it to be removable?

3. If I have to leave at least part of the old capillary in place and feed the new one behind the panel in a different place or way, will the thermostat action still work reasonably well?

4. Has anybody got a parts diagram which shows how the capillary is routed/fixed?

Regards

Vince

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Electrolux TR1178S – fridge not cooling – freezer OK

Me again. Got a VT9. The old capillary seems to be fixed in some way behind the evaporator panel. Is there some standard technique for getting it out?

It goes into a white plastic sheath and then there seems to be a tube down which it is routed on the back of the panel. At the bottom of the panel is the other end I think – appears to be a small black loop which seems by feel to come out of the bottom of the tube.

The panel seems to be sealed into the rear of the compartment and so cannot be removed. Am I missing something in all this?

TIA

Vince

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Electrolux TR1178S – fridge not cooling – freezer OK

OK, I’m assuming problem is most likely failed fridge stat. I’ve looked at what I assume is the original stat – it’s a Ranco K57 P2018. From a quick gander on the net, it looks as if this may have been replaced by the VT72.

Are the readily available universal K59/VT9 stats equivalent in terms of switching temps, and wiring? The existing K57 stat has 3 terminals: black and brown wire connections from 4 core mains cable with another brown switched live running from third terminal to door switch then light bulbs. A blue wire from the bulbs back to the supply completes the circuit.

Is it the black which is the switched-by-stat live to the pump?

Thanks for any advice on this.

Vince

[vinceofarrell]

Re: (Deliberate?) short supply of dishwasher powder

Thanks to everyone who has responded.

I think the trade side of the site needs to do a bit of research into this and find out what the manufacturers intentions are.

That would be helpful. The temptation is to stockpile detergent powder but of course that just makes the problem worse. I think though that in future I will always have a full spare pack in the house until it is clear the supply situation has returned to the way it was.

Regards

Vince

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Bosch S210 – water not being taken in – inlet valve fail

Well, as the diagnosis suggested, problem *was* caused by failed inlet valve. I received replacement part at lunchtime today and had dw up and running again within an hour.

Points worth noting:

– UK Whitegoods Spares quoted £65.52 all inclusive for a replacement which seemed significantly higher than the BSH Appliance Care web site (£51.94) so I went with BSH. The web site is good for info but cr*p to order from. It doesn’t work with Firefox, it isn’t clear how you get from basket to checkout, and worst of all, on delivery, you discover they add on apparently arbitrary carriage charges even though you think you’ve agreed and authorised a specific credit card charge! 👿 Finally, the invoice sent with the order does not mention any credit card payment leaving you wondering whether they are waiting for you to send a cheque/phone up with your cc number/…. It was delivered quickly though. 🙂 I’ve emailed a complaint to BSH and am waiting for their response. I wouldn’t recommend using the BSH web site to order parts – I presume it’s clearer on the phone what the total charge will be, assuming you can get through.

– Remember to order a new gasket for the inlet hose connection otherwise you may have leaks after you refasten the connector. (At £50+, one rubber gasket should really be included I would suggest!!)

– The outlet side hose on the valve (the one held on by a wire clip) was indeed the most difficult part as predicted by clivejameson but mole grips as a third hand did the trick.

So now I’ve got a dw good for *another* 18 years (I hope 😉 )

Thanks again to everybody who posted with advice – it’s a wonderful set of forums.

Vince

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Bosch S210 – water not being taken in – inlet valve fail

Well, I’ve just been looking at the main inlet valve. Before taking any hoses off, I decided to check the coil resistance so having slipped off the spade connectors, I applied the meter and……..zilch – open circuit – the coil is a definite goner. So that seems to settle it, it is the main inlet valve. Don’t know why I didn’t check it earlier – distracted by the buzzing from elsewhere.

The BSH sites lists two parts:

022476 Coil £51.94
051836 Valve-magnet £51.94

Are they the same part? Is the coil part of the larger assembly? I presume I should replace the larger assembly if I’m replacing anything. What do you recommend? 051836 was the part suggested by Martin but I’m confused by seeing two different parts, one apparently a subpart of the other, yet both the same price! I’ve emailed spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk for a quote for 051836.

I hope I’m nearing the end of this problem – thanks again for all the help.

Vince O’Farrell

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Bosch S210 – water not being taken in – inlet valve fail

Clive

No, I haven’t disconnected any of the hose from the main inlet valve. That was going to be my next step because there is a (very small) possibility I guess that the isolating tap on the cold supply is turning but not actuating… Very unlikely I know but should really be checked.

Before splashing out more than 50 quid, I also thought I would take the valve off completely and check it to see if I could spot anything untoward. It’s going to have to come off anyway if it is to be replaced.

Thanks for the tip.
—
Vince O’Farrell

[vinceofarrell]

Re: Bosch S210 – water not being taken in – inlet valve fail

Thanks for response Martin.

This is what happens at start of prog 1 (rinse):

m:ss
0:00 – press start button. Noise (pump?) starts, sound of water draining into waste. (I had put 4 litres of water into machine before starting the test.)
0:10 – new noise starts.
0:50 – programmer clicks then further noise which sounds like arm rotation. Buzzing from salt container valve starts but masked by other noises.
1:50 – arm rotation noise stops. Buzzing now clearly audible. Machine continues to make some noise.
2:50 – machine stops making any noise except for buzzing from valve. Programmer seems to have stopped rotating the control knob.

At this point, the machine seems to be stuck in this state. If I open the door, power is interrupted so buzzing stops, I can see that there is some foaming from the outlets on lower arm. Close door. Buzzing restarts. Programme only continues if control knob manually turned on a click.

Vince

[Author]

Posts