AEG Lavamat 16810 – all programs terminate with time To end going to 3 Minutes

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  • #95916
    baggy99
    Participant

    Hi All
    My 1st post, so treat me gently!
    I have an AEG Lavamat washer dryer, model 16810. Dryer works fine, but all wash programs, including cold wash have just developed an odd fault.
    I set the program (any wash program) and hit the start button. Machine part fills via the pre-wash tray, then churns a few times. Then the main solenoid opens and the machine fills further via the main washing powder tray, then stops, just as it should. It then churns away while the water theoretically heats, but it doesn’t heat. After 2 or 3 minutes the display changes from xx minutes to “3 minutes” and the machine empties and says it’s finished the program.
    The heater element is fine. I have a live feed on one side of the heater element when the machine calls for heat, but the other side is clearly not running to neutral, so no current flow through the element. I don’t believe it’s anything to do with the heating, as the same thing happens on a cold wash, and the feed to the heater element never goes live during a cold wash.
    I don’t have a circuit diagram for the machine, soi I don’t know what’s going on. I suppose it could be the programmer board, but more likely to be a cable or a sensor I assume?
    Any ideas anyone?
    Many thanks.

    #461705
    baggy99
    Participant

    Update… I’ve just hard-wired the heater element to a separate supply during the call for heat phase. Water warmed OK, but the machine still quit the program after a few minutes and the display changed to 3 minutes. So IMHO it’s nothing to do with the heater.

    #461706
    iadom
    Moderator

    What is the full PNC (Product number) from the rating plate, begins with 914.

    #461707
    baggy99
    Participant

    Thanks for the reply.
    I’ve attached a pic of the barcode which has a 914 section. Does that help?

    #461708
    iadom
    Moderator

    There are five or six consoles for these Zanussi made machines. If yours has a round control knob to the far right with the OFF position at 12:00 you could try this.

    switch off the appliance and turn the programme selector knob to OFF/RESET. ยยจ press button 1 and 2 ( the top two, far left vertical buttons) at the same time and then, while holding them down, switch on the appliance by turning the programme selector one position clockwise. After a few seconds either a buzzer will sound or the lights will start flashing. Rotate the timer knob slowly one click at a time clockwise. Dependent on model, at position 11, 20 or 23 an error code should be displayed with the letter E and two numbers. If you can find that then post back. Be sure to re connect the heater first though.

    #461709
    baggy99
    Participant

    Thanks. E85.

    #461710
    iadom
    Moderator

    According to the tech E85 is a faulty circulation pump. That is the pump that is used to pump the water back into the drum during wash cycles.

    It can also be the component (triac) on the main control board for this pump is faulty, that should show E84 but can also show E85.

    #461711
    baggy99
    Participant

    Thanks. The pump is certainly duff. I suspect it may also have taken out the triac. Do you know the model (ie the original part number) for the triac?

    #461712
    iadom
    Moderator

    Boards are only sold complete and are seriously expensive.

    #461713
    baggy99
    Participant

    Can I fit a 2nd hand board off ebay? I read somewhere that the board has to be programmed??

    #461714
    baggy99
    Participant

    I’ve visually checked the triac on the ‘main’ board and it doesn’t show any signs of stress, but I want to be sure I’m looking at the right board! There are obviously 3 x motors (drum, circulation and drain) – do they all have triacs? If so, I assume they must all be on different boards, as there is only ONE triac on the board I’m looking at. The PCB I’m looking at is the one at the top right of the machine, immediately behind the dial. It has edge connectors left and right, and some additional connectors on the upper face of the board (ie on the component-mounting side.) The triac is mounted on a heatsink.

    #461715
    electrofix
    Moderator

    yes it will use a small triac and is connected to the board on connector J1

    Dave

    #461716
    baggy99
    Participant

    Aha, thanks. I was looking for a big triac on a heatsink, not the smaller SMDs. I can now see that the triac has blown and taken out the SMD resistor (or maybe a capacitor) on the other side of the board. I can probably get a replacement triac, but since there is nothing readable on the resistor, I have no idea what value it was. Any ideas? Is there a circuit diagram anywhere with values marked?

    #461717
    electrofix
    Moderator

    chances are there are other similar triacs powering valves etc so trace those circuits and chances are they will use same components

    Dave

    #461718
    iadom
    Moderator

    baggy99 wrote:Is there a circuit diagram anywhere with values marked?

    Board level diagrams are unheard of, even for company engineers. And that is across the board not just Zanussi. ๐Ÿ™

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