Home › Forums › Public Support Forums › Help And Support › Cooker And Oven Forum › Belling Enfield oven popping and tripping out
- This topic has 24 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 4 months ago by
Madhoose2k.
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November 26, 2023 at 12:54 pm #102406
Madhoose2k
ParticipantHave a belling Enfield electric cooker E552.444449200
when you turn the oven on there’s a flash behind the control knob and a loud pop.
Obviously this trips the circuit.
I have ruled out the element (fitted a replacement ) no difference.
I have just fitted a new controller switch – no difference.
When I turn it one click the oven light comes on. Then when I turn it further same happens again – pops and trips.
By process of elimination is the next step the thermostat? Is there anything else it could be that I can test with a meter ?
Have coped for a while with the new air fryer but my daughter keeps asking how we’re going to cook Christmas dinner!Thanks in advance.
EDIT
all other components work as normal -top oven/grill and all four Hob elements.November 26, 2023 at 3:25 pm #488668andyjawa
ParticipantThere should be a number via the machine`s label mod:44444???? e.g. 444449200 which is the proper model number you look up parts and that number is for a Belling E552 but there maybe others under E552 that are a different 44444???? number with even different parts used. Let us know what number you have if different.
The selector switch (abv: swt) for the main oven based this particular 444449200 is the 3rd selector swt/knob from the right. The selector main oven swt shows 6 terminals in total of which only 4 tags are in use (by the look of it) and underneath the swt there are two metal swt contacts that have a connection bridge.
OK, so stepping back first: you replaced the m/oven element which is the usual offending part that goes pop, what is the visual condition of the old element- any splits, blow holes, doggy tripe stick crinkling of the insulation, warping, bulging hot spots or none of any of this and you, using your meter, you did test that old element to earth as set on highest Ohms setting your meter has and it showed no reading between one heater tag and the elements metal brace (the earthing point)? When replaced if there is an earthing green/yellow wire to the heater that was refited where it is supposed to go and NOT fitted to an element terminal by mistake (that happens which is why I mention it!).
The old and new control swt should have 42.029000.033 printed on it near the swt shaft. The packet`s part number 0829561000 (that is the genuine part number).
Did the old swt show signs of failure? And I take it there are no missed X`d wires when you changed to the new selector swt.
The thermostat looks as though it piggy backs on the back of the selector swt – make sure it hasn`t fallen off the new swt !
Normally you do not get thermostats going bang all things being where it is supposed to be.
So if everything is how it should be you are left with a wire fallen off another component when taking the instrument panel off / a squashed wire. or a wire from the swt or thermostat wire that is damaged in the loom, or the thermostat phial tube is touching something electrical.
Take 1 wire off the selector swt 1 at a time and test that wire to an earth point. Do the same for the the thermostat phial
You say the first turn of the knob and the m/oven light comes on so we can discount the lamp (had that happen before where the lamp unit is the cause of the problem which blows the selector swt up).December 1, 2023 at 3:28 pm #488669Madhoose2k
ParticipantI will have a go at the weekend, with the Power off I’ll turn the knob to the on position and meter the terminals from here. could also try turning it on with the Thermostat part pulled out the back of the swt. someone said it could be the board, but i couldn’t’ see a board anywhere, is anyone able to advise?
December 17, 2023 at 12:29 pm #488670Madhoose2k
ParticipantOn the fan motor for the main oven Should there be continuity? I have no continuity beep but when I check the resistance I’m gettin 60 ohms which I understand should be somewhere between 15-150.
December 17, 2023 at 2:27 pm #488671electrofix
Moderatorproblem here is we have not got a lot to go on
we know its an enfield but with no model we cant look up anything
you say you changed the element but some ovens have more than one
a few clear pics might help but you are limited on size so it might be as well to host offsite and post public links
this could be a faulty wire have you checked the wiring in case one has rubbed through
Dave
December 17, 2023 at 2:36 pm #488672Madhoose2k
Participant444449200 Is the model number it is correct in the reply to the post up above. It’s a belling Enfield E552. I have gone round every bit this morning with my meter and cant find anything untoward , all circuits seem to meter through as they should. I’ve left a message for the repair guy so hopefully get it sorted for Christmas!
December 17, 2023 at 2:43 pm #488673electrofix
Moderatorok look at one thing. if its got an oven lamp take out the lamp and look for burn marks on the lamp. had a few flash over
if ok then try something
disconnect both wires from the element and fan motor. insulate them and see if it pops when disconnected
if it still does it can be either component
Dave
ps have deleted your other post to save clutter
December 17, 2023 at 2:52 pm #488674Madhoose2k
ParticipantThe light still works, will I still check this? And with both the fan motor and the element disconnected , did you mean if it still pops it CANT be either ? (Not sure if it was a typo?)
need to go out but will try later this afternoon.
thanks for the advice.December 17, 2023 at 2:54 pm #488675Madhoose2k
Participantelectrofix wrote: ok look at one thing. if its got an oven lamp take out the lamp and look for burn marks on the lamp. had a few flash over
if ok then try something
disconnect both wires from the element and fan motor.
do you mean 4 connections in total to remove and insulate ? 2 from each.December 17, 2023 at 3:02 pm #488676electrofix
Moderatoryes remove both connections from element and motor and insulate wires so they cant short out
since there components are not connected, if it still blows you can say its not either of these components causing your problem
Dave
December 17, 2023 at 3:04 pm #488677electrofix
ModeratorMadhoose2k wrote:Just for clarity I changed the element as I thought it was this so I just ordered one up but upon replacing it there is nothing wrong with the old one. The new one is currently fitted though, the lamp looks okay a thought the metal is a bit dark but I imagine that’s from the heat over the years. Pic attached if it will load.
yes looks ok, if they blow its always at the bottom and you will see evidence
Dave
December 17, 2023 at 3:10 pm #488678Madhoose2k
ParticipantI look forward to trying this later.
will it work without a bulb in? As I could try without to see if thats the cause.further information I think when it first happened the oven was in use.
December 17, 2023 at 3:45 pm #488679electrofix
Moderatoryes will work without lamp
Dave
December 17, 2023 at 6:59 pm #488680Madhoose2k
Participantso bypassed the indicator light with its short and still it trips out! , time to call the repair man, really though id nailed it. gutted.
December 17, 2023 at 7:52 pm #488681electrofix
Moderatorits only a light so follow leads and disconnect it
Dave
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