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What do you think? There is the tiniest bit of brown, just on the side where I took the photo. If I touch it, it does feel a bit greasy. Bearings (again)???
When I grab on to the pulley, I can move the whole tub very easily from left to right. I cannot move it easily up and down. The suspension rods move back and forth. It’s almost as though the metal bottom of the machine that the rods attach to is weak. Is this possible? What is this ‘chassis’ thing that was mentioned???
Those bearings look fine, the way the drum was swaying when slowing down suggests a suspension problem. Cracks in the base/chassis very common on these. If you tilt the machine back against a wall and look at the base around the suspension mountings the cracks are usually obvious. The top fixings of the suspension can wear, especially the plastic domes.
This is the repair bracket that was used to repair a cracked base/chassis. MWP30. https://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/ys79931/restraint-bracket-hotpoint-MWP30.aspx Might be hard to find one now. Physically quite hard to fit, have done hundreds of them in the past.
I’m glad that the bearings look ok, and that hopefully that bearing ‘tube’ is ok, as well.
I was wondering if there was something like a bracket that might hold the chassis together, if it’s cracked (they sell something like this for the potential of cracked manifolds in my car….). Logically (which is not my forte) I thought that it might be highly unlikely for both of the suspension rods to fail at the same time, although perhaps that’s possible with the rubber backed ‘runner’ that was shoved into the drum to wash. They both seem to have the same amount of play, when I move the tub from side to side. The rods seem to move back and forth more at the top of the rods rather than the bottom, if that’s a hint about anything.
Strangely, I seem to be unable to tilt the machine back, although perhaps this is because of the two wheels at the back of the machine. I can tilt it forward, however, so hopefully I’ll be able to see if there’s some damage around the base of the machine. Will check it out.The tops of the rods can become very loose. The securing bolts at the top of the rod can loosen, the plastic cups can wear away.
I suspect it’s difficult to get to the top of the suspension rods without removing the front of the machine, if I recall correctly. Of course, it would be a shame to give up on this, if the only issue was that the securing bolts were loose. It appears that there is pretty much the same amount of play with both rods. I’ll try to get to the bolts and check them. But if I can’t find out what the issue is, I guess I’ll have to admit defeat. 🙁
Impossible, front has to come off. When you replaced the rods did you order the complete kit as that should have included new plastic domes bolts and washers.
Ugh….lol. Yes, I ordered the complete kit with everything new. It was slightly different than the original, but fit well, and has been no problem (thus far).
So now, I’m gonna grasp at a straw here. I noticed that there was still water sloshing about under the inner tub, after the last wash (which I videoed). And I had noticed that last load was still quite wet when the cycle finished. Frankly, I was afraid to spin the drum to get this extra water out, but took a deep breath and did. No banging, no side to side movement, etc. The tub spun perfectly.
I read somewhere about a blocked drain hose or filter potentially causing the tub not to drain properly. Is there a possibility that the very wet clothes and excess water still in the tub, could cause the tub to act like it did in the video, when it went into the spin cycles? (In a perfect world, wouldn’t it be great if this was the problem????)If you fitted everything in the kit then the domes should still be fine. Due to the difficulty in accessing the top bolts you may not have got them tight enough and they could have come loose. Poor draining should not cause major out of balance but the sump hose under rhe drum sounds like it needs inspecting for obstructions. I puzzled as to why you can’t lean the machine back against a wall. I did it thousands of times with this type of machine?
That was quick the number of replies. Anyway I`m wrong the springs are the same ( was getting confused with the WM serues that came after the 95 series ) and you would need C00168446 rather than the early set which was c00168205.
Anyway that is not the problem. Had listen to you video and I reckon that the r/h/side chassis base is cracked but of course that is a guess `cause I`m not there! Someone else has said that the tube that the bearings are fitted can be the problem and that is very true as the tube splits internally within the plastic tank so could be that too. You could try see how tight the top weight is just in case. All the best.Let’s see….I think I can’t tip the machine on its back (rather than tipping it to the front) because there are wheels on the back of the machine that keep rolling when I try to tip. Of course, I imagine I could chock something behind them, to keep this from happening. When I had the suspension rod put in (and note I only put in the one on the left hand side, as you look at the machine, as that one had completely fallen apart. At the time, the one on the right hand side had no rust and seemed to perform properly) I had a strong man come in to fit the rod. There was no way that I was going to compress that rod to get it to fit into the brackets. The guy who did it checked everything, and his work is always excellent. Of course, perhaps the overloaded tub loosened these things up.
Remember, despite the fact that we are of the same generation (at least a Iadom, Electrofix and me. Not sure about Andyjawa…lol), I am female, don’t have your upper body strength, experience with this stuff, etc. I’ll try chocking the machine and see if I can lean it on it’s back.
For what it’s worth, I’ve never cleaned out the filter on this. Just curious, is it a good sign, bad sign, or no sign of anything, that the tub spins perfectly when there are no clothes in it? Is it just because there is no weight/load??
I seem to remember at the time advising you to fit the full kit, the side that looks a bit suspect to me would be the one you didn’t change. If the sump hose and filter has never been taken off and cleaned then it is long overdue. Still inclined to suspect a cracked base/chassis tbh.
While I’m speaking out of sheer ignorance, I think I’d rather deal with a cracked chassis (if I can get the brace), rather than going through the suspension rods (or even bearings) again. I’ll do my best to lean the machine toward its back tomorrow. What exactly am I looking for? The base of the machine is not one solid piece of metal, but rather a metal ‘surround’ where there is an opening below the tub. I’m sure you know this already. Anyway, is it possible for the crack to be on both sides? One side? Fatigued metal in a number of places? Rust? The side where I changed the one suspension rod was had evidence of rust (which is what cause the suspension rod to be destroyed apparently….the rod had actually come out of the part that it slides into).
While the restraint that you show here is no longer available apparently: https://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/ys79931/restraint-bracket-hotpoint-MWP30.aspx. It doesn’t look like it would be so difficult to fab one up. And I suspect that perhaps this was designed in the first place as there were other chassis issues (other than mine)?
And yes, I suppose that in a perfect world, putting both suspension rods would have been the way to go. Of course, I am asking men to do favors for me, when attempting jobs like this (and the bearing)…and while they think it’s ‘admirable’ for me to be attempting these repairs, they also think I should just get a new machine…..Any thought about why the machine spins well when mostly empty? Is it just because it is spinning with no real weight in the drum??
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