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inisfad wrote:I don’t think there’s a problem with the heater element, as it’s attached to the front drum plate, so I don’t think I could have screwed this up
its possible to put the heater back in and get the front bracket in the wrong place so it hits the drum
Dave
Ugh. Just the thought of having to deal with those clips in the front tub plate is a nightmare. As the heating element just slides into that channel (and it’s impossible to attach the front tub plate without aligning it to the rest of the plastic tub) how do you ensure that the front bracket is in the right place???
But before I try to tackle this again, some questions:
The tub in my second video seems less balanced than immediately after the new suspension rod was put in.
Could this be caused because the top gasket on the suspension rod (which is a rectangular plate) was put in crossways, so that it is perpendicular to the tub, rather than parallel?? Does this make a difference???????
Could this be caused just because, for some reason, the load was unbalanced (one heavy sweatshirt among other lighter items).The rectangular plate would not cause OOB, As long as it is securely tightened down it’s position is not critical. The amount of out of balance in the second video was not what I would call excessive and one heavy item in a half load could definitely cause that. To remove and refit the heater there is no need to do anything with the drum front clips. That said the heater is not really designed to be removed and refitted repeatedly.
Also noticed from that last picture that appears to still be the old suspension unit?
Yes, I used that old photo just to show that the plastic housing where the metal plate should go, would dictate that the metal plate should be parallel to the tub, rather than perpendicular and sticking out sideways, as it currently is. I’m glad you advise that this is ok….I really didn’t want to have to deal with this again, but was already starting to make plans to do it. Thank goodness you said it was unnecessary.
The heating element is attached to the front tub plate, like shown in this photo, so hopefully it’s inserted properly. The front plate can only go on with the little ‘nubs’ between the plate and the rest of the plastic tub lined up perfectly:
https://imgur.com/a/LW8Dm0j
I will try to do another wash with a full load that’s more balanced, and see if there is any difference. I will say that even with the tub looking more unbalanced than the first load after the suspension repair, even so, the washer cabinet wasn’t rocking around back and forth, like it was originally doing.
Remember (LOL) despite having ‘taken this to bits’ I really don’t know what I’m doing with this, so can be inclined to panic. If it wasn’t for the calm and educated responses I’m getting here, I’d be a basket case….;)That picture of the heater is cropped at the top and doesn’t show all of the element. The thin metal clamp is clipped to the very top loops of the heater and slots under a securing lug that is part of the outer drum moulding. Failing to check pockets for coins etc often lead to that bracket getting dislodged and mangled, quite common to find them in the filter hose. Even seen the lug smashed off from the inside of the drum.
Ah, ok. Yes I know the top was cropped off…it’s from a video on the internet. The purpose was just to show that I have to remove the front clips to pull out the heater element, no??? Is there another way to do this without taking off the front plate??? Or does this mean that I have to take the front plate off again to check.
An engineer would never remove the drum front to get the heater out. Some come out easier than others but in most cases they can be prised out from the drum front in situ with varying degrees of difficulty. Can you not remember seeing the shiny flat clamp plate on the end of the heater? I would try with a normal load first before trying to remove the heater, getting an old heater back in is almost as difficult as getting it out in the first place.
this is the bracket that should have been clipped to the heater when you put it back
the tongue at the front fits under a plastic lip inside the outer tub
very silly price, would expect gold plating for that price lol
Dave
Good grief, I must have thrown hundreds of those away as they came with new heaters even for the later WMA range. 😮
To be honest, I don’t remember if it was there or not. I just remember the tubes, but not if there was anything at the tip of it. As the heater element is attached in some way to that front drum plate, and slides into the plastic drum itself, how do you get it out without removing the front plate? I can’t figure out how this is possible….the front plate has the seal, is clipped on to the drum. In looking at that photo above, I see that the element sits in some kind of ‘indentation’, and obviously the front part of it is outside of the front plate, where all the electrics attach to it. So it’s possible just to try to prise it out through that hole? And what prevents the hole from leaking, when you put the element back in again?? I can see that this would be difficult (probably more difficult than actually having to deal with the clips again…..)
And yes, I will most certainly do another proper load, before attacking any of this.
one way you may be able to check is to drop the case front off and get hold of the heater where the connections fit and push down. if the bracket is there it wont move but it it is not or its mis placed it will flex and hit the drum
Dave
OK, will try this. In racking my brain, I don’t think that the bracket was there. I seem to remember the ‘loop’ at the top of the tubes, and just sliding the heater in as I was putting the front plate back on. I guess I’ll have to tackle the clips again….I can’t do this with my hands alone, but was able last time, with a bit of difficulty, to do this with the help of a pliers. I see that Ebac has kindly replaced the clips with screws. A much better idea!!
Anyway, so, I pull the heater out, there is no bracket at the end, which hopefully means that the bracket is still attached to the securing lug in the plastic tub. Presumably I can fish it out from its position, put it back on the heater element, and then slide all in properly. Got it. I will do a test load of laundry on Sunday, see if the banging is still there with a more balanced load. (I guess I have to learn how to do laundry properly…lol. Heavy things together like towels and sweatshirts, and a separate wash with lighter things.). Then I’ll tackle the heater element next week, when I get up the gumption to do this.
Thank you for all your advice and help. My continued insistence on an ‘economy wash’ appreciates it!!OK, this is how stupid I can be. I’m studying how to load my washing machine. I found this:
https://www.ariel.co.uk/en-gb/washing-machine-101/common-problems/loading-a-washing-machine
Do you guys know how to do laundry properly (I can’t believe I’m asking this….)
Does having one heavy thing in with a load of lighter things cause the machine to be off balance?
Is this one hand idea in that Ariel link the way to do this?Update. I did a full load of wash. And found out what the banging is…..the 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel are missing, and the panel is banging against that ‘kick plate’ at the very bottom. Whew. Other than that, everything worked well.
Thank you all again for all your advice and putting up with my silliness….and my effort to keep this machine going. Looks like, at least for the moment, the Hotpoint 95360 has a future. Thanks again.
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