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- This topic has 28 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 2 months ago by
matt1979.
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AuthorPosts
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January 19, 2009 at 1:38 pm #42705
matt1979
ParticipantHi, i have a slimline indesit dishwasher that will cycle through wash and rinse, and then when it gets to dry, light 4 ( drying ) just flashes quickly, and the machine stops. The water is coming in and going out ok, the element seems ok as the water gets warm when washing, as usual the code is not in the manual. can anyone tell me what is wrong with it?!? thanks
January 19, 2009 at 6:06 pm #274533iadom
ModeratorRe: indesit slimline dishwasher
matt1979 wrote: can anyone tell me what is wrong with it?!?
Yes, its an Indesit. 😥
4th light flashing is supposed to signify a no heat fault. 😕
Both the heating element and the control PCB are prone to failure on these machines. Sometimes the small NTC ( temp sensor ) which is hard wired to the PCB comes adrift from it fixing inside the door.
Jim.
January 20, 2009 at 9:33 am #274534matt1979
Participantok thanks for the advice, unfortunatley i didn’t choose it – it was a gift, but after reading some of the discussions on here I wouldn’t have chosen an indesit. roughly how much would i expect to pay for parts / is it worth it? Matt
January 20, 2009 at 10:12 am #274535iadom
ModeratorRe: indesit slimline dishwasher
You need to make certain which part is at fault first.
A model number would be a big help. 😉
Different heater, modules etc.
With the mains plug removed you can access the heater from underneath. You need to test the heater for continuity/resistance and also insulation.
The control PCB is normally in the door behind the facia, the NTC slots into a clip on the inner door panel from which it can come adrift.
Heaters & modules for most of this range are not over expensive, unlike their laundry equipment. :rolls:
Jim.
January 20, 2009 at 12:30 pm #274536matt1979
Participantthe lump in question is an indesit IDL40 UK, type LS08 EVO3C, serial number 606068119. i am electrically competent so pointers in the right direction is much appreciated! thanks.
Matt
January 20, 2009 at 5:23 pm #274537iadom
ModeratorRe: indesit slimline dishwasher
Good Grief, 😯 That looks like one of the Wuxi , Chinese made ones. :rolls:
Don’t go overboard on this machine, just not worth it. Heater looks like the one that you can see inside the tub, more reliable than the tube type element used on a lot of Indesit machines.
Module is the cheapish one, around £25 ex Vat.
Jim.
January 20, 2009 at 5:59 pm #274538matt1979
Participantoh joy!
yes, the heater is in the bottom of the tub. i guess you need to disconnect it to test resistance, or it will just bell through something else? is this still accesible underneath, and is it ok to tip it on its back with the salt still in it? what roughly should the heater element read?
Matt
January 20, 2009 at 6:33 pm #274539iadom
ModeratorRe: indesit slimline dishwasher
Heater terminals can be accessed from underneath. Easy to reach to remove cables before testing. I usually lie them on the left hand side ( from front ). Place a few large towels on the floor first.
Some sharp edges to look out for. :rolls:
Resistance should be about 29.5Ω
Jim.
February 2, 2009 at 1:08 pm #274540matt1979
Participantyou were right about the sharp edges, especially behind the front cover…
heater is ok, 30.4 ohms and everything underneath is tight and no signs of any leaks.
Temperature sensor was a bit loose so put a bit more heat sink compound on and secured it, but still the same problem. pcb looks ok, no burnt tracks or loose joints.
the temperasture sensor reads open, guess this just goes closed when temperature reached, its not anyhing clever? is it possible to buy just the temperature sensor or is it worth replacing the whole pcb whilst i still have 10 fingers?Matt
February 2, 2009 at 4:44 pm #274541iadom
ModeratorRe: indesit slimline dishwasher
PCB comes with NTC hardwired to it. As its an NTC it should not read open circuit, its resistance will change with temperature rise or fall.
The PCB will often fail with no visible signs of damage.Part number is C00142139.
Jim.
February 2, 2009 at 5:01 pm #274542matt1979
Participantok Jim thank you for your help.
regards,
Matt
February 10, 2009 at 12:23 pm #274543seahornet
ParticipantRe: indesit slimline dishwasher
If it’s any help, I’ve traced similar symtoms on my Indesit D41 to the 12v 10a relay on the board. Maplins do two similar relays with the same footprint (JM67X and YX97F), at about £2. I’ll get one tonight, to try – I’ll let you know if it works!
February 15, 2009 at 10:09 am #274544seahornet
ParticipantRe: indesit slimline dishwasher
seahornet wrote:If it’s any help, I’ve traced similar symtoms on my Indesit D41 to the 12v 10a relay on the board. Maplins do two similar relays with the same footprint (JM67X and YX97F), at about £2. I’ll get one tonight, to try – I’ll let you know if it works!
Replaced the heater relay with Maplins JM67X. Five minutes with asoldering iron, perfect fit physically, and the dishwasher works like new. Cost £1.31, compared to £50 for the board. I’m happy!
February 16, 2009 at 1:15 pm #274545matt1979
Participantworth bearing in mind for next time it dies, but i’m fairly sure now that its the temp sensor, the heater does come on because if i open the door it is hot, although not as hot as when completed a full drying cycle. Also, the temp sensor reads completely open. waiting for pay day then i’ll get a new board i think, thanks for the info.
May 25, 2009 at 6:49 pm #274546Cheshire Taurus
ParticipantRe: indesit slimline dishwasher
Hi got a similar problem my IDL40 wont heat either its just stays in wash mode splashing about presumably waiting for the correct temprature to go on to the next stage. ive done a bit of testing already.
Heating element seems ok got 32ohms across it so probebly not that.
Thermister had come off the inside of the door but tests ok and refitted but still wont heat up.
was going to replace the relay on the PCB so decided to remove it and test it off the board – works fine
next idea is to solder a pair of wires across the relay coil feed this out of the door panel to the multimeter and run the machine to see if i get 12v on the coil during the cycle.
running out of ideas now, so if its not the element, relay or thermister whats next? or should just buy a new board and hope it is the board thats faulty?
Going to have a glass of wine now and retire for the evening and try not to think about the washing-up in the morning.
Cheers
Mark
PS its a IDL40 UK.C COD64375210000 S/N 612228191
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