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It turns out that wire is super long and much harder to check the continuity of than I imagined. All the joints at the back of the pcb look okay, I’m going to pore over the diagrams see if I can determine which points on the PCB should correspond with the thermistor’s, and get to them that way. Can anyone advise?
Failing that, perhaps I could take the PCB to a technician to check cheaply?
If it helps, I think this is my board https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0mkAAOSwOntcwMrH/s-l1600.jpg
yes that looks correct
the large relay is used for the heater
also check the continuity of the wire from the heater to the board in case its broken at the bottom of the door. very common on some machines
Dave
Looking at the manual – other faults (with the washing pump or drain) can also be responsible for E3. My rotor arms aren’t spinning, even on the rinse programme (which I don’t think uses the heater) – just to exclude anything I can check myself before getting help, could that be fouled somehow?
I will check that, but my PCB is down at the bottom (not in the door), in a neat housing with all the other stuff, there would be no need to put the wire anywhere near the door hinge.
ok I see don’t know the models geography
yes could be poor water flow check the impellor for debris
DaveThanks, I will. To correct my earlier statement – programs do “complete” there is just no activity in the tub. No water out the rotors, that’s the main symptom – (and the E3 error code on diagnostic – but not on normal program). The clear tanky bit (air breaker?) is a little bit mucky, I woulda cleaned it but everything has those clips on that I don’t understand, like once-only jubilees. Guess I need to start tackling them? Is there a knack?
don’t worry about air break. concentrate why you have no flow to the bars so go for the wash motor
to loosen the clips insert a screw driver in the loop and flex it to stretch it and loosen clip. to tighten it again use side cutters or pincers
Dave
Sadly I suspect there will be no re-tightening of these clips – no matter I’ll pick up some jubillees if needed.
Wash pump / motor assembly removed, few fibres in the impeller but not enough to impede rotation (it span reasonably before I cleaned it). Could only see through tubes, but it looked in good order. Cleaned impeller/screw and re-attached to motor. Motor was warm – resistance (of coil I think) ~117 Ohms, manual says 78-100 measured from PCB. Capacitor was attached and I’m not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure I measured the correct 2.
Could there be a blockage anywhere else, e.g. between the pump connector and the sump or is there another stage to check for blockages before I reassemble? Or can a competent Tech bench-test the motor/capacitor for me?Just checking, but that was the washing pump I just cleaned? (the fat cream bit with the heating element also in it) Just the manual also mentions a drain pump.
Visual inspection of the plumbing I can get to looks ok, nothing obvious just beneath the arms attachment (in tub)
Kind of service manual – i.e. some slight differences in machine – but this has been helpful.
https://www.4kenwood.co.uk/images/mediator/90/service{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20manual{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20-{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20kdw45b13{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}20(9249h{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}209250h)a{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}2B{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}202013.3.6.pdf
Mentions possibility of “weak capacitor” – could this be responsible? Is it worth swapping out?Throwaway culture is looking less bad to me now. My shoulder hurts, I lost my Sunday afternoon and I am still washing up by hand!
caps do go but normally in my experience the motor wont start if they go. you are saying the motor is running but you have no flow so it sounds like a blockage or an impellor problem
Dave
I don’t know the motor is running for sure. I heard a noise during the programme, but that was all.
However, there were a few fibres and the screw on the impeller top was fairly loose (the fibres were on the screw under the head, so there was probably a wee gap. Could it have risen beyond the oblong bit of the shaft (6-7mm I’d say) and ceased to engage with the motor? Then I would have motor noise (and warm) but no impeller movement).
In other words, is it worth reassembling and testing again, or is there anything else I can test/do while it’s in bits?
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