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Well, I’ve jubileeed it back together and stuck it on “rinse” see if I can get the arms turning – I can’t. At this stage, (maybe) stripping the parts I have tested and know are good off it and throwing the rest in the dump is looking really attractive. Mind you, so is taking a lump hammer to it in the back yard. Unless anyone else has a suggestion?
Summary: Normal noises/filling but arms not spinning during cycle (no error displayed), On diagnostic cycle persistently error code E3. Visually okay. Element 30 Ω, Thermistor 17.3 kΩ, impeller clear, (resistance of motor coil ~120 Ω I think) PCB all joints looked okay (and is easily accessible). Tech manual and pics uploaded above.
No I am not. Furthermore (it is running a diagnostic cycle now) all the ambient heat in the area is coming from the motor, not from the heater assembly adjoining it. Has the motor had it?
no but its easy to tell the noises are completely different . if its stationary it just hums. if it just hums at the rear of the motor most of them have a slot for a screwdriver to turn the shaft, make sure its free. If it wont turn easily don’t just force it work it back and forth as it will be the seal that’s stuck and we don’t want to break it
Dave
Ok. Just to clarify, you mean the seal in the impeller housing? Secondly, Do I need to remove the motor/heater chunk again for this and look for a screwdriver bit at the top of the spinny axle thing?
The sound is more of a growl than a hum – but fairly normal for the washer. The motor is too hot to deal with. I mean the metal bracket not even touching it is too hot to leave my finger on.
Yes. It turns fine, i.e. no significant resistance that I can feel, smooth rotation. If I twist and remove the screwdriver, it does a couple of full turns on its own before stopping. With my finger in the opposite end I can feel the impeller rotating too.
So I have an E3 error, no water to the spray arms, cold water, a very hot motor, no impediment to the impeller or motor rod. If this area is the problem, then I’m guessing there is either a blockage between the pump and the arms, or an electrical failure within the pump/capacitor assembly.
I don’t think there’s a blockage. So I’m wondering about a broken capacitor weakening the motor… or the relay in the PCB not switching on the heater? I still haven’t tested the thermistor connection to the PCB, if someone could direct me to the correct bit on the pcb I can test continuity? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KENWOOD-KDW45S15-SLIMLINE-DISHWASHER-MODULE-CONTROL-BOARD-PCB-/352689472516?nma=true&si=u5b1hM{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}252Bmy0NM2HQW6A{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}252Br7kn4VRk{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
you are complaining about no water flow to the bars. Before you think about the heater problem this has to be sorted. The motor seems to be getting very hot so may be worth changing the capacitor just to eliminate it
Dave
I checked the capacitor this morning, it seems to work fine [in that it accepts charge, keeps it, and discharges smoothly on my multimeter]
Is that sufficient to exclude a “weaken capacitor” (I’m quoting the service manual)? If so, could one of the two coils on the motor have broken? Can I test these while it’s dry?
I would like to satisfy myself that the motor is turning. Bear in mind that the machine is fairly dry now, I’m guessing I need to clip it back up, fill it and run it again, trying to eyeball the tiny slice where I can potentially see rotor movement?
If someone speaks PCB and can tell me where to prod I could test the continuity of connections, which would be good targets to exclude (currently difficult with the way the wires are routed and colours changed. PCB schematics and photographs in the thread above.
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