Wiring issue?! Please help!

[Mattypompy99]

Hello folks,

My sister’s electric Hygena AHY3220 main element died, it was old so she fancied a new upgrade. Bought a Russel Hobbs, I suggested a SIA but nevermind!

The hob and oven are wired into a 50amp Crabtree wall switch, two lives and two neutral terminals.

This evening we removed the Hygena, I severed the cables with a cable cutter. One went up towards the wall switch the other in the opposite direction to a normal 3 in plug I assume (obscured behind a cabinet).

Now the hob doesn’t work but the wall switch light comes on! Hob worked before.

Probably bit off more than I can chew but does anyone know the wiring layout or what’s going on?!

Thanks

[Mattypompy99]

The model of the replacement is RHEO 6501ss. It has what looks like standard three wire connectors, will this need hard wiring into the 50amp switch, or connecting to the remaining section of devious oven’s cable?

Thanks

[Mattypompy99]

Mattypompy99 wrote:The model of the replacement is RHEO 6501ss. It has what looks like standard three wire connectors, will this need hard wiring into the 50amp switch, or connecting to the remaining section of devious oven’s cable?

Thanks

Previous not devious!

[Mattypompy99]

Mattypompy99 wrote:The model of the replacement is RHEO 6501ss. It has what looks like standard three wire connectors, will this need hard wiring into the 50amp switch, or connecting to the remaining section of devious oven’s cable?

Thanks

I’m thinking after a bit of reading, that the old oven cable needs removing from the connection unit as it’s creating an open circuit?? Then the hob will work. Also the new oven cable is just a 13 amp hobby, nothing in the manual about it!

[electrofix]

dont know what you have done to be honest and what your saying does not make a lot of sense

need to know what cables you have cut and where pictures would be good but size constraints will prob mean hosting them on another site and posting a public link

the Hob needs wiring directly into the 50A main Its a heavy wire so did you cut this one ?

the oven probably will wire into the 13a plug but you need to look into the manual. RH is a junk make these days, gone are the days of it being a quality british brand. You would have been better with Beko, Spares are easier and 2 year guarentee

Dave

[Mattypompy99]

electrofix wrote:dont know what you have done to be honest and what your saying does not make a lot of sense

need to know what cables you have cut and where pictures would be good but size constraints will prob mean hosting them on another site and posting a public link

the Hob needs wiring directly into the 50A main Its a heavy wire so did you cut this one ?

the oven probably will wire into the 13a plug but you need to look into the manual. RH is a junk make these days, gone are the days of it being a quality british brand. You would have been better with Beko, Spares are easier and 2 year guarentee

Dave

Thanks for the reply Dave, I agree I was waffling a bit! Late and a bit squiffy!

I told her about RH but she wouldn’t listen, the SIA had good reviews and a 5 year guarantee! I don’t have any photos.

I’ll try and be clearer. So we removed the old electric oven, it had two cables that I had to cut. One went up to a normal 3 pin 13 amp plug socket, the other towards the wall mounted dipole 50 amp switch. The electric hot plate hob is entirely separate.

Upon reading up on the wiring I understand these appliance are routed via a dual connection unit which I haven’t seen yet, perhaps behind a cupboard.

Upon cutting the cable to the oven the hob now doesn’t work. Question is why not? Is it because the remains of the oven cable is still wired but severed at one end and removing will solve? The wall switch light still illuminates.

Thanks

​

[Mattypompy99]

Both sides from the cooker seemed heavy.

[Mattypompy99]

https://www.sparkswarehouse.com/products/kb-st8332n-45a-dp-switch-double-plate-w-neo

Wall switch

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AA45DCOP.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&source=adwords&ad_id=415703895087&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=AA45DCOP&product_partition_id=889135910870&campaign=shopping_switches_sockets&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=CjwKCAjwnIr1BRAWEiwA6GpwNZtnea5ljetFE9vW7aHHOgXl4-QC9HsKtTrFwU93JI7qHrPa77uu2BoC-zwQAvD_BwE

Was thinking this device may be the CU that both oven and hob are connected to

[electrofix]

dont see why you cut 2 cables.
the oven is a single cavity oven capable of being fed off a 13a plug. cant say about the old one as i can get no pictures of it but i assume its the same size so that too should have one cable

so what was the other cable you cut and why ?

Dave

[Mattypompy99]

electrofix wrote:dont see why you cut 2 cables.
the oven is a single cavity oven capable of being fed off a 13a plug. cant say about the old one as i can get no pictures of it but i assume its the same size so that too should have one cable

so what was the other cable you cut and why ?

Dave

Hi Dave,

The ovens are the same size and the new one sorted into the cavity nicely. The new oven has a single 13 amp cable.

The old Hygena oven had two cables connected to it. One to a 13 amp plug, one up towards the wall switch.

I had to cut both to remove the oven from the cavity or it would still be there. Now the hob just doesn’t work for some reason.

Matt

[electrofix]

this is worrying me a bit. cant see whats going on

there is no reason both cables would need to go to the oven. If both were fed then the oven would have 2 feeds and join 2 circuits together which is dangerous

does the 50A wall switch still have power? is there a light on it to tell you ?

Dave

[don]

Sounds like both were working on the same supply, possibly “piggy back” together no doubt. Electrician required to sort into two supplies with proper isolators.

Don

[electrofix]

don wrote:Sounds like both were working on the same supply, possibly “piggy back” together no doubt. Electrician required to sort into two supplies with proper isolators.

Don

I thought that but one cables comes from a 50A sw the other from a socket which makes no sense. unless the whole lot has been fed off a 13a plug

Does sound very very dodgy. In some ways its good its been found but in the middle of a lock down you have to safely get it repaired

Dave

[Mattypompy99]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Update. Both cables from the old oven are 6 mm heavy ones. Forget what I said about the 3 pin wall socket.

The hob was connected directly to the oven, piggy back/in series like Don said. I was thrown due to the lhs cable going away the door 50amp wall switch. The light does work.

Now I’m thinking that there’s a connection unit I cannot find yet that connects it all together. So I need to find out if it’s a single or dual appliance unit and connect up them both to it, new oven and hob? What do you think?

Pics included. The cable going behind the cupboard is going in the opposite direction to the wall switch is left and wall switch is to the right of the hob.

Cheers!

[Mattypompy99]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gLQyDXDEGkBlVp870vA28ktZalXGzs6E/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gL1peoqMvLkwJrEIFJmmj9v5LhgFiB5i/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gJuaX2UIWA6ecQBXuchwUHhIPSpcTTFb/view?usp=drivesdk

Hope these links work!

M

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