[antiskeptic]

electrofix wrote:if the relay has 12vdc at one end and 240v at the other its not working

when the relay closes it connects the main connections together so if you are measuring across the relay it would be no volts when energised 240v when not

the safety stats on the element work on 240v so if the relay goes short circuit it still can stop overheat

Dave

Thanks very much Dave. That makes sense. It is indeed 240V across the relay whether energised or not. A 10 quid repair (assuming all else alright). A result!

[antiskeptic]

Righto. Got myself a (€24 euro – I’m determined to beat this Hoover but only at a price) multimeter.

– When running, I’ve got 12V dc on the pair of pins at one end of the heating relay

– When running, I’ve got 220V between each pair of pins at the other end of the heating relay

Testing continuity with all powered down:

– the main neutral supply to the PCB links to one of the pairs of output pins on the heating relay (N pins lets say)

– the main live supply to the PCB connects to the other pair of output pins on the heating relay AND all 8 pins of a plug socket mounted nearby on the PCB

This plug going into this socket has 4 cables coming from it: 3 black and 1 red. (The sockets 8 pins are presumably paired – 2 for each cable – such as to provide firm mounting of the socket to the board). The 4 cables are the heaviest on the board and presumably carry the heating element current.

Sense check time:

1. I’m assuming the element is bunched. This, because I presume any safety’s/overtemps would input into the board the the “brains” of the board would withhold 12V from the heating relay

2. But: I don’t understand the circuitry. The heating relay when 12V is applied, appears to connect main board supply live (always connected to one set of relay pins) to main board supply neutral (always connected to the other set of relay pins)

Any illumination appreciated…

[antiskeptic]

electrofix wrote:correct time to buy a multimeter.

if you had applied power to the element
1 its not a safe thing to do
2 you run the risk without the fan running of blowing the overheat stat which mean new element on hoover

Dave

I’d have done it whilst running the machine!

[antiskeptic]

Not sure this tester is any use. When the cycle ends the above wires still glow red. I notice too, some lighter gauge wires from another plug on the board (3 black, a yellow and a white) which I’m presuming is the motor supply (the heavier gauge ones referred to above doing the heating). They glow at end of cycle too.

Time to buy a multimeter methinks.

[antiskeptic]

Sorry for the fit’s and start’s approach but..

I’ve used a tester I’ve got which glows red when there’s voltage on the line. When the machine is running, I’m getting a glow from both the red and all the blacks.

Normally you wouldn’t get a glow from the neutral on a 220V circuit, just the live.

Any ideas?

[antiskeptic]

2nd question!

There are two 220V carrying plugs on the board: power supply in and (presumably) power out to the heating element. The heating element plug has one red and 3 black cables on it. The dryer is built in to a degree and I’ve the top off. I want to put 220V on the element to check if it’s working without having to remove the machine.

Is red common live and each of the blacks an element?

[antiskeptic]

The battle with my Hoover dryer goes on. It’s 5 years old at this stage but I’m going to wrestle with it until the very end.

This time it’s the heating which is gone. Dryer functioning normally but no heat.

Question: the heating relay on the board has a cream colour casing. Here and there on the casing you can see tan discolouration. Would this be expected on a 5 year old relay or could it be a sign of the relay being blown. The relays are only a 10-er so I’d give a replacement a crack.

Thanks

[antiskeptic]

Okay. Thanks for the direction. I’ll keep and eye out and see whether I can ascertain a directional aspect to the noise. Safe to say that it’s more likely to get worse than better!

[antiskeptic]

Oops capacitor … not condensor!

[antiskeptic]

Belated thanks for the advice given after I’d hared off with my angle grinder.

Angle grinder it was – guesstimated the location of the hole spot on > careful use of a 1mm disc on a 4″ grinder (only going deep enough to cut through the metal and minimizing metal dust entering the machine). I left two small bits of metal uncut to act as hinges. Folded the “door” open, changed part, folded shut and done.

Now for my latest problem with this machine. See new thread.

[antiskeptic]

Re: Hotpoint consensor dryer: drum motor occasionally stalli

😳 😳

The last piece of junk I had (before this piece of junk) was a Hotpoint. Hotpoint must have imprinted it’s junkiness into me ‘ead.

–

I’m hoping a neat access hole cut in the sidewall of the dryer will make fitting a cinch (or less of a pain)

Last question: if the replacement capacitor has 4 spade connectors and the original (presumably) has two, which pair do I use?

horizontal pair (flat spade next to flat spade)

vertical pair (flat spade above flat spade)

Thanks for the direction-giving

Auntie.

[antiskeptic]

Re: Hotpoint consensor dryer: drum motor occasionally stalli

Time to do this capacitor work….

However, the only model number I can access on the in-situ machine is the basic one (DYC 8913B) – not it’s subset variants. As such, I can’t identify the exact capacitor used.

For various reasons (laziness / distance to hump the machine to a place where I can work on it / and the need to keep the machine operable) it’s not practical to pull the machine out to ID the capacitor.

The following strikes as the way to go:

1. Buy capacitors of a few different ratings – they are cheap.

2. Take out the machine and cut a hatch in the sidewall to access the capacitor directly

3. Identify the capacitor rating from the old one and replace with a new one.

Questions:

1. Does anyone know which capacitor ratings a ca. 4 year old Hoover condensor dryer might be expected to use? Say I buy 4 or 5 to cover the likely range of possibilities..

2. What happens if you use a capacitor of the wrong rating (e.g. I buy a 7 and 8mf and it turns out a 9mf is used and I haven’t got one)

Thanks for any info,

Auntie

[antiskeptic]

Re: Hotpoint consensor dryer: drum motor occasionally stalli

Aha! Thanks a mil. The machine looks very boxed in so a chance to test my theory that a new hatch can easily be created with a thin blade angle grinder.

[antiskeptic]

Re: Whirlpool AWM 3000/1 washing (!!!) machine burns my clot

Well, a good number of washes later and no more burnt clothes. Well done Martin for spotting the not so obvious and thanks to r600a for the rational detective work.

[antiskeptic]

Re: Whirlpool AWM 3000/1 washing (!!!) machine burns my clot

Looking at it I can see this machine is a bit smaller than the one it replaced. This one’s a relative tiddler at 5kg load.

I wouldn’t have ever jammed a machine full (mechanical sympathy and all) but perhaps I was over-stuffing this one a bit – being used to what the old machine could take.

It’s be great if this was it – I’ve one on the way so the last thing I need is an intermittent washing machine fault.

Will try a few careful loads and will let you know how I get on.

Thanks for the input..

[Author]

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