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Thanks for the replies. I’m not a domestic engineer but am an electrical one with 31 years experience of working with 3 phase 5kV machines. I will be ensuring the capacitor is properly discharged. I’ve received a replacement diode so Ill replace that one in the newer of the two machines mainly because the original is quite greasy and dirty all over. Transformer pri and sec windings read ok, as does the insulation as far as I can tell. Ill get a replacement capacitor too, its not that much
I’m surprised that combined microwave/cooker hoods are few and far between nowadays.
Re: Hotpoint WMA11 Bearing Change Epic
I’m sure you are both correct in that the spider should have been replaced but it’s all back together and working now so if it fails in the next year I’ll come back and say yes you told me so 🙂
The door interlock switch is working correctly, I tried it in my hand with it removed. When the door shuts it slides the plasic over allowing an electric solenoid to pull a piece of plastic through a gap, physically stopping the door from being re-opened, plus closing an interlock switch to tell the machine the door is locked.
The solenoid is not being energised, even though the wiring continuity is OK from the controller down to the switch. The switch is also OK, reads 1kohm. Measuring the current (should take about 200mA to operate the solenoid) there is none. As I said, continuity from the board through the solenoid is OK. I suspect it is the drive to the solenoid from the controller board that has failed.
I have jumpered from the common to the door locked line on the switch so that the controller thinks the door is locked and will carry on as normal.
Re: Hotpoint WMA11 Bearing Change Epic
Ah but Virgin do auctions so if there’s not many people about you can bag a good bargain 🙂
Yeah I could have layed out another £50 for a new spider but Ill see how I get on with this one, where the shaft seal sits looked fine, it was further along where the main bearing just behind it was was where it was scored. I have also packed out the back of the shaft seal using Aqua Shield which is a real sticky waterproof packing gease we use for prop shafts offshore.
Today – got the bearings out of the freezer and tapped them gently into position – well, OK a good dunt via a piece of wood but they went in not too bad.
Putting back together was a reverse of the dismantling. Went together quite easy (once you know how). The machine has just gone through its first wash, it sounds so quiet I suspect the bearings started failing about a year ago! Its so quiet! And no leaks, not a one. And even more surprisingly I had no bits left over, not a washer or screw – never happens at work.
I have only one problem (which actually appeared after my first “practise” disassembly of the front of the machien before I ordered the bearings). The door lock solenoid won’t. It won’t lock.
There are 3 wires down to the door switch. One common, one drive to the wee solenoid and one feedback wire to tell the machine the doors locked. The switch is fine, solenoid is 1k resistance, the door locked indicator is fine, traced all wiring through to the circuit board OK.
For whatever reason the drive from the small 4 legged surface mount chip is not operating to drive the soelnoid closed. If I physically close the switch, the machine sees the door locked and carries on as normal. Not sure how I’ve managed to break that but Im not laying out tens of £s for a new control board. I’ve set the controller to think the door is locked by jumpering the door locked feedback, as long as I dont open the door when the machine is full I’ll be fine!
But anyway, basically when it comes to changing the bearings if you’re OK with DIY or working on your car to the level of being able to change brake pads, give it a go. You WILL need some big hammers and “easy outs” !
Re: Whirlpool ADG957, drain only (NTC replaced)
Just to follow up, the machine is now fully operational and back to normal.
I would suggest people check the pressure switch at the bottom of the machine for a build up of fat on the sensor before shelling out on a new NTC.
Re: Whirlpool ADG957, drain only (NTC replaced)
I’ve already had the unit apart to replace the NTC sensor, there is no water.
It made no difference to the fault. I then removed the pressure sensor, there was some fat build up in it. After cleaning, I confirmed with a multimeter that the pressure switch was OK. Also measured it and poured some water in the machine to confirm its operation in situ.
After that, the machine then appeared to work correctly. I have only tried it once, so will run it again this evening to confirm its all working again. The fault seemed to get worse over the last few weeks so hopefully it was just the pressure switch.
Maybe the advice for the constant flashing light meanining it is almost certainly be the NTC sensor could be changed to get people to clean and check their pressure sensor first. That way £38 on a new NTC could be saved, at least checking/cleaning the switch is free!
Re: Whirlpool ADG 957 constant beeping at end of cycle
It finally did it again.
When it happens, I do a full normal wash and at the end of the cycle it starts to beep – a long beep pause, long beep, etc. constantly. The Prewash light is on and the start light flashes every 0.5 second, no code in the flashes.
