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So I had the time to check more – after yesterday’s new errors.
Wire connector on the PCB shows the readings of the NTC-DRY
Using RCD + spades and heat shrink tube directly on the terminals with main power off and PCB on the table far from the unit
– Fan motor runs on max without problems and consumes 0.26Amp – never bothered to read the motor RLA.
– Attached and the Heater(wago connectors with 3 slots) – no readings changed, the RCD did nothing, only fan running.After disconnecting all, I measured the heater element – nothing on the scale. Took another multimeter – Nothing. Each end to ground – nothing.
Decided to disconnect/dismantle and see what I will see….
1. The small hose from the top of the fan housing to the detergent/softener caddy – melted where the clip had it pressed!
2. Decided to take the metal duct assembly OFF this time (I had it opened and cleaned last time) the rubber on the clamp – wire with screw inside a rubber – melted.
3. Decided to check the heater, as I expected something like Christmas tree inside- nope all good with the heater it is in 1 piece.4. 3 or 4 fan fins were with different colours…
5. The plastic ductwork going down the drum (some site are addressing it as condenser) is OK, some dirt/fibres are still attached
6. Filter on the exit of it, going in the drum is 70-80 clear.
So whatever happened yesterday F13 and F19 managed to overheat the plastics/rubbers and destroy the heater dry and for whatever reason called for heater Fan in Drain mode …I now have expensive junk!
Anyone needs spares as they are still good!?!
Well, I happen to had the same connector from a TRUE (American brand) freezer sensor(s) set and I replaced it on the thermistor end with 20 cm cable. I was thinking to replace the whole line, but it was showing the readings (almost the same) on the PCB end, so I called it good/working, still soldering the wires directly to PCB will not be a problem.
The assembly – dry heater, fan, ductwork was separated (open) the fan is like new, the ductwork (going down to the drum) was vacuumed and pressure blown. Washed off (the ball with the drain rubber was taken off and cleaned) without the heater being there with degreaser and water 1:5, going directly in a bucket (used car ramps to rise the washer). And was working well for about 15 min, fan was audible too, is it not supposed to have the thermistor read from the very beginning of the dry process?
Vcc?
Bulb from Tesco – 28W or so, cycle completed no drama, no….
Before that Heater that is only 2 wires – but as is longer and I had no extra powerful fan, when it reached 110C (infrared thermometer) I unplugged one wire.after the Bulb test with the bulb still attached I started #14 – 30 dry cycle. The K1 relay was not supplied, but the lamp wires to ground 90V~ and after 15 or so minutes (nice smell of warmed fibres) F13 and water inlet and pump ON.
Stopped the power supply waited 5 min – purposely to not let it cool too much and started again Drain only!
F19…https://indesitservice.co.uk/washer-dryer-repair/error-codes fan on heater is not functional…I was able to hear it during the cycle – that is first. It was not needed as selected task is draining.Am I missing something or the PCB is totally FUBAR?
Evening Dave, thanks for the advise!
I have defrost heating element about same 1800-1900 Watts but 1100mm long, will hook it up and will try it and lamp too, just never (except car bulbs) needed to use lamp… Multimeter and amp clamps are usually OK…
And if you up for brain-scratching what would trigger F08 in Dry mode?
Let’s say Heater Wash is a goner, it has nothing to do with Dry!andyjawa wrote:Crap metal- “thin brittle modern mild steel ya can`t trust it Jim”. Mind you this used to happen to 1990`s Hotpoint 95 5kg series and the suspension legs were on rubber mounts back then and the metal still fractured – common too at the time. I would say based on my own experience this is commonly seen on this modern stuff too – usually or ,rather worse, on the now commonly seen larger capacity machines but the for the price you pay most people would be buying those size models anyway so that is a poor guide. Anyway, whatever and however anyone would want to argue over this it boils down to poor materials and poor design but still no body ever learns from the mistakes of the past.
IF, not saying is easy or possible, as I see only fragments not the whole thing, if you drill the solid part and use (depending your options) L shaped profile to reinforce it, is it not going to last?
Aluminium or steel depending what you can find. In order to stop the cracks, take your best 3mm drill bit and make a hole just on the end of the crack. There will be no extensions beyond the hole, but depending the tin, might weaken it more…
