[bekodonegood]

Hmmm, who knew fridges could be so complicated. I think I’m going to test the wires leading to the fan and go from there. If they are receiving power (unlikely), then I’ll have a look at the circuit board on the back.

[bekodonegood]

As the problem seems to stem from the wiring to the fan, is there a safe way to test the contacts while the fridge is on ? Also can the wire be traced to it’s source ?

[bekodonegood]

Thanks. So we can discount the switch. I wasn’t 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} about the fan (the replacement may have been faulty), so I took the original one and hooked it up directly to the mains, it spins fine, so that’s ok as well. So the problem may be the wiring that leads to the fan. I considered touching the terminals with the test meter while the fridge was switched on to see if there was a current flow, but then thought that might be a REALLY bad idea. Are there any fuses that might have blown ? I’m reaching the point where I just might rip the alarm off the control board !

[bekodonegood]

I’m away from home at the moment, so can’t test the switch. Is the procedure for testing a 2 terminal switch the same as you described previously ?

[bekodonegood]

I understand. Maybe the switch was upgraded at some point for that particular model. I assume if a 3 terminal switch was fitted, the 2 grey wires would be separated and one would go to the 3rd terminal ?

[bekodonegood]

I believe the serial no is 72675463331110056406. My circuit doesn’t have a buzz setting (it’s so old !) but I can put it on test and see if I get a reading between the terminals when they are closed.

[bekodonegood]

I don’t know about that, all I know is what the sites say vs what the part actually looks like. I bought the fridge new and it has never been repaired, so the parts should be stock. So, how do I go about testing the door switch ?

[bekodonegood]

There is a switch advertised on eBay,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133566162611?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338766898&toolid=20006&customid=0c9d3a50c3f1b64013ee27593956078e&_trkparms=ispr{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3D1&amdata=enc{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3A1W2HNH1k2TBKgy5pSkf2QUQ52
which is identical to mine, right down to the markings. TBH, I don’t have a lot of faith in these parts suppliers. The parts they recommend always seem to differ from the ones installed in my appliance, that’s why I prefer to pull the part and see what it looks like. The fan motor is a case in point, none of the ones on here look like mine !

[bekodonegood]

So I pulled the switch. There are 2 pins, one with 2 grey wires attached and the other with a single blue one. On examination there’s no damage (rust, scorching, etc), and the contacts open fully when the switch is operated. Sorry to be a total spanner, but how do I test with a multimeter, and what readings am I looking for ?

[bekodonegood]

Ok. Is there any of testing the switch once it is removed ?

[bekodonegood]

Correct. As the fan wasn’t spinning (you can see it slowing down when the door is opened) that’s what made me suspect the fan motor. But assuming the new motor was working and didn’t stop the beeping, I’m looking elsewhere. The door seal seems undamaged and there is a vacuum when the door is opened. The compressor switches on and off, and there is no excessive freezing either in the fridge or freezer. There is some ice on the back wall of the fridge, but only in the form of frozen droplets, maybe because the top half is slightly warmer than usual ?

[bekodonegood]

Hi Dave, thanks for the reply. The door switch turns off the light when pressed, so that side of it seems ok. Is there some other way of checking it’s operation ?

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