[bluin]

Update

bluin wrote:Thanks, I’ll stick with same model.

Well, this proved to be a mistake – this one is now dripping water onto the floor after a few washes. This time it’s leaking during the wash cycle rather than leaking steam at the end of the cycle. (It’s square and perfectly level).

I’m beginning to think Currys have a faulty batch – especially looking at recent reviews for this model.

I’m going to ring to morrow and this time try and get a refund and buy a stainless steel Bosch at £699 – 3rd time lucky(?) :/ (But, I suspect I’ll hit a brick wall as it looks like return period starts from your original purchase).

What are BEKO engineers like – anyone with any experience? I won’t trust this machine if it’s not as simple a s faulty seal – which looks fine…

[bluin]

Hi, thanks for the reply

It’s a BEKO BDIN26430

(I’ve just watched this Bosch instructional video and my original pipes were fitted like this (but coming from the back of cabinet and looping over) – fast forward to the 12 minute mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDYCE-Os2RM )

Although, my waste pipe was higher above the inlet – approx 10cm.

Below are the diagrams/instructions.

The first green tick is a bit like ours but the slack on ours runs along the floor right to the point it starts to go upwards (Like a reversed L shape from dishwasher.)

Also, the red crosses on the diagram indicate the pipe should not be below dishwasher – does this include the height of the feet? (as technically with feet fitted the hose is below its outlet when touching the floor). If the height of the feet are irrelevant, i think i may be ok?

Small diagram – but makes things vey confusing and potentially awkward 🙁 Thanks again for help.

[bluin]

electrofix wrote:no unfortunately Liverpool

Shame – you do things correctly with experience.

electrofix wrote:you can adjust the springs on the door as some outer doors are heavier than others

Even on the Beko?

Great advice – thanks. I will try to find info (although, the fact that it’s leaking steam without the door I may be facing a losing battle).

electrofix wrote: Never force them

Mine wouldn’t even turn to begin to start to get level (i had to use an electric screwdriver to get them to turn – couldn’t do it by hand). They kept on slipping. But, the inside of the machine showed it leaning to the back – a lot.

[bluin]

Thanks, I’ll stick with same model.

Did you have any issues with the back leg’s mechanism slipping when turning?

One thing i forgot to mention is, unlike my old machine, the door on this machine didn’t virtually close when you let go about half way up. It would hang about 6 inched open. Is this the norm because of the auto shutting? Or, was this another fault?

*I don’t suppose you live in Devon? I would trust you to fit it properly.

[bluin]

Thanks for all your help, Dave. I’ll ring tomorrow and arrange an exchange.

I chose the BEKO BDIN26430 as it has a fully stainless steal interior and had good reviews (plus, BEKO seem to keep parts going for years).

Are there any other makes/model you would recommend i consider if they haven’t got stock – with fully stainless interior?

Or are they all much of a muchness after certain price apart from useless bells and whistles (£400)?..

* I can spend more – but I’m only interested in short washes (wife swills dishes) and don’t use/need the auto open door function. Plus, i’m not keen on trusting a machine to hold a tank of water for a couple of days for eco reasons. When they have the ability to leak in many other ways 🙂

[bluin]

electrofix wrote:take the outer door off and see if you still get steam

I’ve removed door and the problem still exists but not as excessive:

Again, during the washing cycle, I could see a slight mist on the silver protector strip on the left hand side. When I rubbed my finger along it it was slightly damp.

As the machine went into the ~8minute drying cycle the steam was easily detectable with a mirror – misted up instantly.

*However, after the wash had stopped the top left of dishwasher door only slightly damp but this time the top of the stainless steal door didn’t have a build up of water. Nor was the seal dripping wet (like it was with the vanity panel fixed).

*But it was still releasing steam and i assume it will be worse once I reattach the door.

Is this an easy fix – or could it be any number of things?

As mentioned before – the machine was levelled under the counter using a sprit level inside machine. But, confident that front is level – as I measured clearance from the floor on both sides to bottom of unit and used a level on top of inside dishwasher. Level shows it as plumb).

I may go through the rigmarole of an exchange rather than a prolonged repair process – depending on what you guys think.

[bluin]

Thanks again for the reply, Dave.

Again, from your reply it’s triggered a thought:

The only other thing I can think of to add is that when i fitted the fascia panel, i had to to move it at the bottom from the left to the right (as you face the machine) so that it there was an even amount of panel showing both sides.

Could this have unbalanced the door even though it was only 3mm?

*The door is attached by 2 knobs that hang from the top front (measurements were exact on both sides) – but when hung from the front of dishwasher the door bottom was touching the of side of left unit. When i checked the sides of fascia panel, either side of dishwasher door, the left hand side had more panel showing than the right. So, before screwing I gently moved the bottom slightly to the right so it evened the door either side. This made the door look even and stopped door from rubbing.

Could this slight adjustment on fixing fascia panel be the cause of the problem?

[bluin]

electrofix wrote:that was the reason i asked did the door close straight

Totally understand and have got several others opinion – but it could be missed as the dishwasher is fitted under counter (floor drops down so i had to level from inside the machine). But, it does feel ok – but not totally convinced given your reply.

electrofix wrote:as front leg adjustment can twist the case but out of line left to right wont matter if the door is square to the frame

You may be on to something as I haven’t fixed it in position (top fixing screws) as i feel i could still get it ‘squarer’ but the back feet were really reluctant to move. The screw adjustment kept on slipping. The spirit level indicates it’s square – but i don’t trust the engineering of mass produced units with crappy plastic feet and having to use the inside of dishwasher as a level…

Thanks again, Dave – you’ve given me a glimmer of hope as logically it makes sense.

I should have mentioned that the left hand side also dips in but not as much. I would really appreciate your assessment/insight with the measurements below of the fascia panel to that of the other units:

The top left is level with the unit to its left.
The top right dips in about 2 to 3 mm from the unit to its right
Bottom left dips in about 5mm with the unit to its left.
Bottom right dips in about 8mm from the unit to its right.

Even though the inside the spirit level indicates that the unit is almost level, I’m not convinced. Could this problem be corrected by adjusting legs?

I can add pics if it helps.

Thanks again for your continued help.

[bluin]

electrofix wrote:you could also play around with a mirror to see if any see if any steam is coming out and at what stage

Well, it’s conclusive. :/

Even before the drying cycle i could see a slight mist on the silver protector strip on the left hand side. When I rubbed my finger along it it was slightly damp.

As the machine went into the ~8minute drying cycle the steam was easily detectable with a mirror – misted up instantly.

After the wash, top of door was damp and even the top of the stainless steal had built up water. Plus that side of the machine had water around the seal etc…

So, question’s –

1. could this be because why I can’t couldn’t get the door square with units?
2. Could it be a result of not being quite level – or is that wishful thinking?
3. As the seal looks fine and i suspect the door isn’t true should i just return (only had it 10 day)?
4. Please feel free to add any advice –

[bluin]

electrofix wrote: they do have vents to stop pressure build up but a manufacturer would not allow a product to get moisture somewhere it would damage a surface like a kitchen unit door. Such things lead to law suits

Yes – checked for vents. And from searches they seem to be at the bottom of the machine – but, the information on this is very limited. Although a vent would neatly explain it.

*Could i just clarify – there should be no condensation/moisture build up on top of fascia panel at the end of cycle no matter what? Not, even allowing for build up of condensation from heat of cycle combined with the metal strip exacerbating issue?

I’ll try and get a picture of the issue when I use it later tonight (plus, use mirror trick) . Concerned that the door may not be square/true…

I’m guessing if the door isn’t square/out of kilter that would be a replacement machine?

Thanks for all you input, Dave. This has been a sod of machine to fit – you may have seen my panel issue thread – this would cap of a very frustrating fit if after finally fitting it’s borked..

[bluin]

electrofix wrote: well apart from , if its condensation it will form more on colder surfaces

True – and if it is localised condensation can this be normal? (if i don’t get any luck with the mirror trick)

Or, should there be no moisture at the top (either on top of fascia panel or the metal protective counter strip), no matter what, if the door hasn’t been opened?

*I should add the seal looks fine to the untrained eye. But, no gaps or kinks.

[bluin]

electrofix wrote: as you close the door. just before it closes does it move to the left or right before it closes

As far as i can tell, with it fitted, it closes cleanly.

electrofix wrote: you could also play around with a mirror to see if any see if any steam is coming out and at what stage

Thanks, i will try this tip when it’s next on (good idea).

As an aside – do you know why i get moisture/condensation on door panel and not the dishwasher panel? (Both are equally exposed as fascia door is almost flush with panel. it’s a larger surface area, too.)

[bluin]

Thanks for the reply, Dave.

It is a wooden ‘painted/lacquered’ door and as far as I can tell nothing could possibly be catching the door.

electrofix wrote:you could try the unit with the outer door removed to see if it still happens

What i find particularly strange is that the actual dishwasher door panel doesn’t suffer any moisture at all – not even on the said left hand side. Yet, that would technically be equally exposed.

From your reply, should I regard this as a potential problem? i.e. is it leaking a small amount of steam on the left hand side at the end of the cycle?
I was hoping the metal strip was just creating condensation due to heat of dishwasher – but from your response I’m guessing the strip should remain dry if the door hasn’t been opened regardless of dishwasher internal heat?

I’ll do another check today.

*I should add that i couldn’t get this dishwasher totally sqaure/flush with units like my old one. I spent hours trying to get it flush but in the end compromised and got the unit flush to the left hand side units but the right bottom right side is recessed in by about 5mm.

[bluin]

I’ve updated thread as this may prove useful to someone else – especially if they buy the same model. TBH – when my new/spare fascia arrives if i have to use it I will probably fit dowels again as the screws bite in far better and with more strength.

Decided to use beech dowel.

I’m having to do all the holes as the 2mm suggested pilot hole in the instructions proved way too big. The two fittings I had fitted in preparation; the screws were spinning/not tightening and with little effort one pulled out. The instructions and provided paper template are a ridiculous system.
Now i know the proper measurements, I can use a tape measure and get exact measurements on both sides – as I have a much better understanding of where the top screws need to be (paper template made the door hang too low – and that was with 2 sets of eyes making sure template was ok.)

Below is pic of dowels now filling the offset hole and of my original holes (same on other side) – glue drying to be cut and sanded and the ‘hopefully’ fixing will be a lot easier…

” When tested on a piece of wood the dowel makes an extremely strong fitting – if anyone else is having a similar problem or has loose fittings this is a relatively simple fix.

[bluin]

electrofix wrote:glue some match sticks into the exiting holes using wood glue, then let it dry and smooth off with sandpaper and re drill new holes

Thanks for the reply, Dave – i would normally do this.

However, I can’t drill a pilot as I’m having to screw blind; guided by dishwasher holes when door is partially in place so it stays true. The holes are so close to where I’ve got to screw my gut tells me that they will naturally gravitate to the softer wood of the matchstick. And if they do the door will be completely misaligned as they’re the only 2 screws that are used and so will dictate the alignment.

Here’s the link to just the unit’s fitting instructions if it’s of any help, thanks:

https://bekoplc.blob.core.windows.ne…GRAM_ar_AE.pdf

kwatt wrote:Lawrence found a filler that could do it, he’s had to do a number of them but I forget what filler it was but he said it worked every time.

Thanks, I considered wood filler but was concerned it would crumble. If you can remember the name of the product I would try it as it’s had successful results with the same issue.

I considered an epoxy but it’s so hard to screw into – it’s like cement.

I’ve done the dowel trick before – but only on door hinges (lots of depth to play with). I can only drill in about 5mm and then fill the hole with glue and dowel. I’m hoping that this will be strong enough on a dishwasher panel, it’s pretty heavy? (Have any of you done this before?)

*i’m ordering another fascia door just in case – but it’s going to take 4 weeks to be delivered :/ If whatever fix I do works at least i will have a spare because if i have to replace the dishwasher again there will be too many holes in this one.

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