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Thanks for the reply.

That’s really unfortunate as I have screw holes that are just a couple of mm from where new fixings need to be screwed it. And unfortunately it’s proving impossible to fit.

I’m either going to have to drill out the holes with a 10mm bit and glue in some doweling for the screws to get something to grip to or buy a new kitchen panel.

I wish i had bought a different machine as they would have different fittings that probably wouldn’t have been close. I thought i was being sensible buying the same make for ease of fitting. Backfired…

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don wrote:Good luck with your choice, let us know what you choose as future readers may read this thread for info.

Well, after altering pipes to accommodate an Aquastop connection – the dishwasher i received had Aquastop built into the machine (no need for under counter pipe reconfiguration for bulky vertical connection and ultimately a 6 week delay due to my plumber being very busy).

***I recommend ringing the manufacturer to check whether they have Aquastop at the end of the pipe or within the machine. But, be careful – ring twice- i did this and got told the wrong information by BEKO. The lady sounded unsure and i did ask for reassurance but I wish i had rang again, it would have saved me 6 weeks of washing up and £200 in needless plumbing fees…

As i wanted a full stainless interior, after advice on forum (because of the Bosch fragile plastic interior in the sub £600 range), I opted for the devil i know and got the BEKO BDIN26430 (£350 in sale). It’s a machine that has been around for years so was hopeful that any bugs would have been manufactured out with latest revisions. I would have got the more expensive options in their range but did not want a reservoir of water (potential big leak) sat in the machine for 72 hrs if i didn’t use it.

My thoughts on BDIN26430:

Fully stainless steal and less bells and whistles to go wrong – cleans very well.

However, the build quality to my previous 13 year old machine is markedly disappointing. From runners in the machine to the god awful counter fittings that are almost at right angles when you slide them in. I had to grind them down so that they wouldn’t ‘potentially’ break the front of the machine when pushed in. It’s also noticeably louder which was an additional annoying surprise.

I wish i had spent £100 less and got their entry level – you get the same programmes other than a Hygiene clean which i doubt I’d ever use. I stupidly thought the build quality would be better – it’s not from shop inspection (they didn’t have the BDIN26430 on display)

That said, if it lasts 13 years i will have little to complain about but if it fails within 5 years i will be buying an £800 Bosch with a full stainless interior as the quality and fitting would be so much more reassuring…

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don wrote:I have over the years seen many installs done by adding an extra hose and then joining to the Aquastop. A word of caution it could invalidate your warranty

If it doesn’t affect operation I may consider this. A lot cheaper, simple, and if there was a problem i would get a plumber out to re-orientate pipe before the machine is inspected… (i had a Neff ceramic plate’s warranty void because i had to disconnect the plug to fit. Engineer admitted it was wired perfectly fine (quality plug) and wouldn’t have caused the issue – but he couldn’t validate it. I am very much opposed to these insidious loop holes in guarantees… (Regardless of factoring in the stupid.)

It’s huge mess under my sink and from looking it’s going to be a very tricky and cramped job. My plumber is not going to be happy. But I suspect I’ll bite the bullet. But, imagine it will require a days work to rectify 40 years of addons and botch jobs etc… (I very much regret the plumber we had pushed on us on our refurbish – the guy was a complete halfwit. We’ve been tidying up his botches for the past 6 years…)

don wrote:If it were me I would visit Currys and John lewis and have a look at the different models rather than trying to make a decision on line.

I have looked but, as you know, looking and liking doesn’t dictate reliability/build quality, only experience and knowledge of the machines- such as yours.

For example, we looked and liked the Neff and Bosch – but we’ve now ruled these out apart from the S155ECX07G, you suggested, as the price is just about tolerable for a dishwasher (i don’t like paying for needless bells and whistles).

Thanks again for your experienced advice. I may well end up with an upper end AEG or BEKO – but that Neff does look good for £650 – although i woild need to disable the auto door opening…

*Just out of interest, if the solenoid fails in these pipes do you have to pull the whole machine out to fix? (they just seem to be another point of failure compared to a properly fixed standard pipe.)

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Thanks again for the comprehensive reply, Don.

I tried searching for fully stainless steel models – but i either didn’t know the correct terminology or probably wasn’t sure at the info i was looking at. Thanks for taking the time to list suitable models – great help (apologies, but i’m unsure of what you mean by ‘spare part explosions’ to identify unit type)

Unfortunately, I’ve hit another snag. All the models I’ve looked at have an AquaStop pipe (or equivalent). My outlet pipe is horizontal and close to the side of the cupboard. So it;s the wrong orientation and it won’t accommodate the housing of these pipes large connecting ends.

Can i replace this Aquastop pipe with a normal hose and, if i can, are the hoses just screwed into the machine or are they fully integrated now? On my old BEKO DW686 i could just unscrew the pipe off the back of the machine – but looking at some pictures it may not be that simple anymore with modern machines (i looked at an AEG and the inlet hose went into the machine)

Also, do the machines operate without the aquastop pipe, and will i void the warranty if i replace hose for a standard one?

“Nothing is simple anymore 🙂 – i miss just a few select programs, pressing proper buttons and simple proven connections. I must be getting old…

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don wrote:Both of your selections have the polyinox base which in recent years has caused problems if consumer constantly use the hot cycles as it has warped the base and then leaked water. The new breed may have overcome this. By the sound of it this won’t really affect you as you will be using lower temps more.

Thanks for the detailed reply Don.

We have wooden floors and warping/leaking sounds very disconcerting – especially after doing a search on the issue. Surprised they haven’t stopped using the Polionix base considering complaints. (They even do a repair kit for it :/ )

We would probably use the quick wash mostly which is 60 to 65 degrees – depending on machine – which i assume is classed as hot?

Are there any Bosch/Neff machines that don’t use this base? Or different brand recommendation altogether?

Any good machines that don’t use Polynox base?

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Thanks for all your help, Dave.

It was such a compact and well insulated door – it proved tricky for a novice (i needed an extra pair of hands).
Your advice re: front fascia and skin screws was spot on. The snag i hit was the wool insulation was glued to everything (made things very difficult) and when i realised i needed to pull out the machine to get a better look, and then realised what the kitchen fitters had done, i knew i was on a hiding to nothing.
It was worth the try, and would attempt again with the experience i have now.

*Could i trouble you for another bit of advice – what integrated dishwasher would you recommend for ~£500? I was looking at this NEFF but not keen on top cutlery tray – but seems a lot have them now…

https://www.johnlewis.com/neff-n50-s…8GELS7inkiAggB

I would also prefer a 1 hour quick clean – as my wife swills everything so it only needs a short warm wash.

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I’m resolving the issue by buying a new one.

PLUS, the kitchen fitters completely screwed me 7 years ago by rooting pipes and cables before fitting the kitchen and it’s been a bigger nightmare removing it. Even the kitchen floor is a different height to that which the appliance sits on (they didn’t floor all the way back) – which made things very tricky again.

Will fit myself this time.

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Taken lower skin/panel off, looked up into the above panel and looked behind insulation etc and i cannot see anything that looks like the PCB that i ordered (i checked with BEKO that it was the right part)

Part:https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1755…control-module

Should i take the new PCB out of protective plastic box? Very confused – expected to see replica of the PCB box in an obvious place behind panels/insulation.

My limited knowledge has come into play – am I missing something obvious – or looking in wrong place?

I’m even wondering if this is the part I should have ordered – it’s called a ‘display’ PCB?

https://www.bekospares.co.uk/display-pcb/product.pl?pid=3997652&query=dw686

but i thought that was just the display.

With insulation/compactness – it’s much trickier than i expected…

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Thanks for all your great advice, Dave!

No matter what the outcome you’ve made this experience a lot easier and safer. The sharp edges i would have completely overlooked while concentrating on everything else. You will have definitely saved me some blood loss.

I will update the thread for continuity and for the benefit of other searches – but your help has been invaluable, throughout – greatly appreciated.

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Thanks, Dave

From where the ticking sound is coming from I think you’re correct – in order to replace the PCB I will need to remove the lower skin. But, i will heed your advice and remove the above panel to access wires to the existing control panel which the ‘new PCB’ will need to plug into.

Thanks again for all your help. Hopefully, it will be prove to be the fix. If not it was worth a ~£40 educated guess/punt as the machine is in excellent order…

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electrofix wrote:take the bottom of the door off first

then you can remove the control panel

if you dont take lower door off then the wires would be too tight to work on it

Brilliant – thank you!

So, remove the lower section of the front skin first (to give me room) and then remove the the upper thin panel (if needed)?

*when you mention ‘control panel’ – is that the PCB? (they’re separate on my machine)

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It finally died over the weekend so I’m ordering the PCB today.

I’ve been scrolling through dishwasher PCB replacement on YouTube and so far they only show ‘freestanding units’ as examples (front display). My dishwasher is ‘integrated’ and so the panel is on the top. Do you have any advice for removing the independent front facing panel at the top of machine? (I’m presuming this is the only panel I need to remove and the PCB is behind it).

i.e. should i expect resistance, will there be clips or velcro etc? Should i expect anything to be attached to it?

Any advice would be appreciated.

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electrofix wrote:module look correct and yes its likely its the fault. may just be an ageing capacitor but that gets into electronics

check with site before you buy as to look up part no you need the serial no on Beko

Thanks, good advice – and it’s reassuring that you think it may be the issue, too (i realise there are no guarantees – but appreciate an informed/experienced opinion).

I will update the thread when I get around to changing the part. Which could be very soon if it stops working altogether…

electrofix wrote:go round all the screws on the inside of the door. remove each one. if its less than an inch put it back. there should be 4 long screws if its done correctly

after that the outer door should slide down and come off

Excellent – thanks for the detailed tutorial, Dave I really appreciate your experience and time given.

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Apologies – i never noticed your reply (I have a dishwasher issue and noticed the notification on this thread as i was posting.)

*Update – it was a faulty washing machine. It not only leaked from the door (not hair related) but also beneath the machine. I didn’t bother to explore the issue – i just videoed it leaking in operation and they replaced the machine.

The new one works fine but has developed a faint ticking/clicking noise when it rotates during wash (not during spin). It’s past it’s warranty now and other than the faint noise it’s working fine. I’m just hoping i haven’t bought another POETS day machine.

I may do a post if it gets worse but if it makes 5 years, I’ll be semi happy… (we ordered a tumble dryer and washing machine at the same time during this period. Tumble dryer had to be replaced twice and washing machine once. Unsure whether this was extremely bad luck or the machines are just poorly quality checked – even when trying to deliberately buy simpler versions, with less bells and whistles.)

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electrofix wrote: sounds like the main board is failing

Thanks for taking the time to reply, Dave.

I realise this is diagnosis over the ether, so no guarantees etc – but would this be the part I should experiment with replacing:

https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1755…control-module

Additional: I will need to remove the wooden fascia panel off the front of the appliance when I attempt to fix this, but i can’t find any instructions/info on my machine on how to do this. Some integrated Bekos have screws others have a combination of clips and screws. Is there a chance you know how the fascias are attached on this particular model? (knowing my luck, I’ll fix the problem but ruin the aesthetics in the process…)

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