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Re: What PAT test equipment do you suggest?
They seem about the cheapest around.
You can use a continuity/insulation tester with an adaptor. Just a bit more fiddly. You won’t be able to measure leakage or other mains-supply derived tests.
Take a look at Instrotech – not the cheapest but do a wide range
I have purchased test gear from both.
No issues with either. (I have no commercial connection with either – just a satisfied customer).
Regards
Re: What PAT test equipment do you suggest?
Some suggestions for you (please don’t take this the wromg way):
1. Get yourself a copy of the IET Code of Practice for In-service Inspection & Testing of Electrical Equipment (4th Edition).
2. Get yourself on a C&G 2377 course – this will teach you about PA Testing.
3. Check that your insurance covers you for this activity.
In my view, you need to see & note what the readings are. Remember, it is not only electrical testing you need to do. You need to visually inspect the item as well.
With regard to equipment, I use a Robin 5000 tester. I still ‘hand write’ the test sheets. Just leave them with the customer for next time.
A lot of testers carry out a ‘pseudo’ leakage test at a low voltage (eg 40 volts) and then linearly multiply the value up to what it would be at 230 volts. This can lead to errors & consequential issues with unnecessarily ‘condemning’ equipment as ‘dangerous’.A 20M? reading is not necessarily a bad reading. You will need to take a view. For example, this could be due to a mains-filter or a surge-suppresion device. Take a look at the CoP. It will help you.
Look at as many testers as possible. Dont get ‘over-focussed’ on one make. Look at Fluke, Megger, Metrel etc.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Re: Appliance Fires
madangler1 wrote:This type of problem is becoming a massive problem just look at this issue with cable from another Turkish company
http://www.esc.org.uk/public/home-elect … uk-market/
11 Million meters of faulty twin and earth that a large portion may already be in the walls in your house waiting to go up.
Unbelievable.
I hope the installers have tested the installation prior to energising and issued appropriate electrical installation certificates :rolls:God help the Consumer & Installer/ Repairerwith all this crap stuff now being released.
Regards
Re: Recall Notifications
If you look at the Electrical Safety Council website, there is a set of pges that lists product recalls for most types of electrical products.
http://www.esc.org.uk will get you to the front page.
Regards
Re: Elica T14 Cooker Hood Motor
Have you checked that the filters are clean and there is no food-grease build around the motor?
If this has a speed control switch (i.e 3 settings) have you tried the different settings to see if the motor rotates at all?
Turn power off before dismantling.
If everything is clean, the motor has failed and will require replacement.Regards
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
At long last common sense prevails.
Thank you for getting back to us Madangler1. 😀
Regards
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
Thank you for agreeing with me Stratford Girl.
When I read that these commercial organisations were allegedly promoting this practice, it did raise concerns.
If appliance ‘engineers’ cannot recognise the difference between TN & TT installations and cannot interpret loop impedance readings then I, for one, do wonder about the training for the individuals dealing with electrical appliances.
I am sure that someone will say that the concerns are unfounded as there are minimal incidents reported. Just wait until an MP’s relative is killed or injured. Everything will change. Much tighter regulation will then come in. Surely, as an industry, education and training must improve.
Regards
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
at 2nd para add in ….low loop impedance values accuracy…..etc
Thinking faster than typing …..
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
madangler1
For the purposes of technical debate lets just carry this forward. Whilst I agree that no-trip loop testers can sometimes be problematic with consisent readings, I think that you would agree that taking an EFLI reading will be a good indicator as to whether or not the circuit will disconnect under fault.
Even a conventional loop tester can give erronous readings especially if the house is extremely close to the transformer (high PFCs, reading errors due to inductive reactance etc). It is known fact that at loop impedance values accuracy (not resolution) can be as poor as 30{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}.
In jest, the only sane test is to drop a big spanner across the terminals & if the CPD activates, all is good 😈 :rotfl:
Lets examine your statement that 100 or 200 ohms is good enough. What does this mean in reality? This may be true / acceptable for 30mA RCD (additionally) protected circuits.
For non-RCD protected circuits (of which there are still many in existance) The protective device may not disconnect under fault especially if there is no RCD. The outcome could be fire or elevated touch voltages leading to shock risk.
I think as appliance engineers, there must be awareness of acceptable values – be risk adverse. Don’t take a chance.
Regards
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
I would like to add my two-penny worth. I know that this will start some flack. :rolls:
100 ohms EFLI is far to high for any final circuit. When you take into account parallel paths created by Main Protective Bonding (even for a TT supply configuration) then one would expect a very much lower value.
The 100 ohm figure is normally the absolute max value for the external EFLI value at the origin of the supply. If you have measured external EFLI values in the region of 200 ohms then you may have unstable earth rod arrangement for a TT supply.
The typical EFLI max values you should be looking will be dependent on the controlling fuse or circuit breaker at the Consumer Unit.
So, why do we measure EFLI? This has not been clearly explained in any of the posts.
The reason to measure this value is to assure that the protective device (eg fuse or MCB) will clear within a specify period of time (for TN installations below 32A within 0.4 seconds) under fault conditions.
So for TN type installations,
16A type B MCB max EFLI is 2.87 ohms
20A type B MCB max EFLI is 2.30 ohms
32A type B MCB max EFLI is 1.44 ohms
40A type B MCB max EFLI is 1.15 ohmsWhen carrying out measurements always take 80{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the above values as your working max. The 80{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} value is a generally recognised rule of thumb (ROT) value that takes into account things as installation and thermal conditions.
if a 30mA RCD is present, then you will need to use the ‘no-trip’ mode on the loop tester. The absolute max value here is 1667 ohms to earth. This value is determined by the max allowable touch voltage. L-N loop values are as detailed.
If you find a loop value that exceeds the above, advise your customer to have the installation checked. Better safe than sorry.
With regard to calibration, an acceptable verification method is to use a known socket, say, at home or the workshop. Record the values once a month and you can then see if the meter is drifting.
I could ramble on a bit more if so requested. Always pleased to help someone if needed.
Hope the above helps someone & adds clarity.
Regards
Re: AEG Electric Oven Prod No. 944171265
Just to add that is item 11 on the Main Oven Cavity NH102052325A drawing
Regards
Re: Oven facia lettering being removed easily
”…….Thats why Im asking if anyone knows what British and European Standards cover the manufacture of electric ovens -does anyone know?”
In response to your question, some aspects of electric ovens are covered by BS EN 50304. There are many parts to this standard. If you go to your local public library, you should be able to search for applicable standards.
Please note that whilst you might be able to gooooooooooogle for a BS EN number you will be unlikely to able to download it as British Standards charge for their publications.
Regards
