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Re: Europart
Correction to a typo:
This is disappointing especially as I have just spoken to Qualtex who stated that they do NOT have this stupid cut-off policy.
:rolls:Re: Europart
This is disappointing especially as I have just spoken to Qualtex who stated that they do have this stupid cut-off policy.
Don’t really want to deal with Connect after all the bad press I have seen on the forum.
Companies like RS Components don’t cut customers off from web-site access, so what is with these tin-pot element and appliance spares companies?
😕
Regards
Re: Europart
Well, I’m now looking for another supplier that is a bit more understanding and co-operative.
Re: Switch ratings. e.g. 16A(4) /250V ac. What is the 4 for?
A conventional wirewound transformer is considered as inductive.
A complication with some transformers is that the magnetising current is at the third harmonic.
This can cause interesting issues 😉
Regards
Re: Switch ratings. e.g. 16A(4) /250V ac. What is the 4 for?
Eastlmark
Motors are not resistive loads. They are normally considered as inductive.
The only time thay could be considered as nearly resistive, is, if they are run from a dc source. However, if you or I wanted to get picky :rolls: at start-up, or, power-down, they could be considered as inductive
Regards
Re: Bad work practices still rife in trade
ok.
Leave it with me and I will see what I can work up & find on the www for you to look at.
Regards
Re: Switch ratings. e.g. 16A(4) /250V ac. What is the 4 for?
A correction (its late!!)
the (4) would normally indicate max NON-resistive load you can switch with the switch……. 😉 etc etc
Re: Switch ratings. e.g. 16A(4) /250V ac. What is the 4 for?
the (4) would normally indicate the max-resistive load you can load the switch.
For example, 16= 16A for resistive loads
4=4A for non-resistive loads such as motors, transformers and the like.The reduced rating is normally to allow for the extra stress due to contact-arcing caused by the non-resistive load
Regards
Re: Bad work practices still rife in trade
No. It is not saying the same thing twice. You could get a satisfactory EFLI reading via gas & water pipes (especially if they are metallic) and other strange parellel paths. Carrying out EFLI tests with no main earth & or bonding could introduce unforeseen shock hazards.
This is why it is important to verify prescence of earthing and bonding.
Agreed, if you find no Main Protective Bonding and/or no main earth, proceed with caution & advise the customer to seek assistance.
Keep in mind that main protective bonding is somewhat different to the Main Earth even though they are all inter-connected at one point.
The point being made is, that if you are carrying out EFLI measurements, understand what you are trying to achieve and measure, and do it safely.
If you would like me to expand on any of this, I would be pleased to do so.
Regards
Re: Bad work practices still rife in trade
neilsukwg
Metrel make a mulitfunction tester. As do Megger and a number of other manufacturers.
When carrying out EFLI measurements at sockets etc, please may I remind everyone (sorry if I’m teaching all to suck eggs 😉 ) to verify prescence of a main earth and protective main bonding as well as watching out for 30mA RCDs.
Regards
Re: Electric fire element identification
Don’t wish to teach you to suck eggs, but, I have found that some of these ‘stats are real flimsy and if the contacts are inadvertently bent or deformed when cleaning, the operating point can change. :rolls:
Regards
Re: Electric fire element identification
Is there a thermostat / controller on the heater? If yes, have the contacts ‘welded’ together?
Regards
Re: Electric fire element identification
RS Components stock a range of these type of thermal fuses. You need to check the operating temperature to ensure continued safety with the fire.
Bussman used to make a range of these as well. Used to be available via Farnell.
Regards
Re: Towel Rail Heater
In my considered opinion, the element should be mounted at the lowest point.
Take a look at this link to the Dimplex website… http://www.dimplex.co.uk/products/domes … /index.htm
You can see that the lement is at the bottom of the towel rail.
You should contact the manufacturer and verify the installation requirements.
The installation looks new. As an aside, do you have all the appropriate electrical certification in accordance with with Building Regulation Part P? You may need to go back to the installer.
Regards
