[carlos_uk]

Ok, so it’s still running constantly and is now struggling to maintain temperature so I guess it’s compressor related so probably time to call it a day….

[carlos_uk]

electrofix wrote:try turning the stat down one notch

Dave

It kept running constantly on the lowest setting (1) even though it got down to 4 degrees but to be fair I’ve not tried that with the new thermostat so I’ll try that and report back

Thanks,
Carl

[carlos_uk]

electrofix wrote:
1 in warm weather expect the compressor to run a lot more

2 not sure how old this is but as systems get older and wear the efficiency goes down. this could mean it does not get as cold as it should and you may have ice on the back wall but unless the area of the evaporator where the thermostat probe sits get cold enough to turn it off it just continues till a huge lump of ice forms on the rear wall

are you getting a large lump of ice ?

Dave

Thanks for your reply Dave, it is about 15 years old so I’ve had good use out of it and I’ve never had any issues with it before now. It’s interesting what you say about ice building up in the evaporator because the problems started after I defrosted it so maybe I just need to leave it but the compressor does appear to be running 24/7 and has been for a couple of weeks now.

There is a thin layer of ice building up on the back wall which doesn’t normally happen as it defrosts itself.

Thanks,
Carl.

[carlos_uk]

Ok, so I decided to replace the thermostat as from my investigations that’s what essentially turns the compressor on and off but the situation has not changed, it’s still keeping temperature so I have no idea what else it could be, unless there is another component that I’m not aware of so any ideas would be gratefully appreciated

Thanks.

[carlos_uk]

Hi Dave,

The motor is turning but not fast enough and I presume not generating enough torque to move the brew unit properly, it is a known fault that can occur with this machine that the PCB stops supplying sufficient voltage to drive the motor, I spoke to a company that repairs these machines and they have confirmed this after I’ve tested with my multimeter, however a replacement PCB is £125 and they also recommend to replace the motor as well which is another £25!

Regards,
Carl.

[carlos_uk]

Hi Dave,

You are correct, however the motor is not moving the gears and therefore the brew unit within the allowed time and is therefore causing the machine to time out and not completing the cycle.

Thanks,
Carl.

[carlos_uk]

tubafan wrote:

How did you get the postage reduced as I need a couple of parts from RS and object to paying £6.95 for a package that’ll likely cost them about £1.50?

I just ordered it expecting to pay the £6.95 but they never charged me for it, so not sure if it was a mistake or they just felt bad!

[carlos_uk]

There’s no power going to the main switch

[carlos_uk]

electrofix wrote:before you call it a day if you want

check all connection

check you have mains voltage on the board

make sure all your solder joints are ok and you have not damaged tracks

if it was me i would check for voltage both on the high voltage caps whicH should be 300v DC ( be careful( and the low voltage caps ( probably 12VDC ) but only if you are competant and safe

Dave

Thanks Dave, I was up until midnight fiddling with it!

Some or the pads were damaged when I removed the power chip but I’ve exposed some of the relevant tracks and ensured I soldered onto them so I’m quite confident with that, I’ll get my multimeter out and check for power supply, I’m guessing the main switch supplies the board so that should be what I check first? I don’t think I’ll fiddle around with the capacitors though if they are energised!

[carlos_uk]

So……

I got the fusible resistor from RS Components who didn’t charge me £6.95 for delivery in the end, I soldered it on and connected the board back up and it still won’t power up so I’m guessing whatever caused it to blow in the first place has caused damage elsewhere, so I’m calling it a day now.

Thanks ever so much for all your help, I do really appreciate it

[carlos_uk]

I’m guessing this won’t do the job as it doesn’t mention it’s fusible?

sourcing map 40Pcs 33 Ohm Resistor, 3W 5{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} Tolerance Metal Oxide Film Resistors, Lead, Flame Proof for DIY Electronic Projects and Experiments https://amzn.eu/d/av1d7F2

[carlos_uk]

Yeah, 3 watts seems to be correct based on the size, I’ve also calculated that the maximum power flowing through the board is 3.78 watts.

Now all I need to do is try and source a couple for a reasonable price, it’s a shame there doesn’t seem to be anywhere I can walk into to get one anymore

I did think about getting a non-fusible one just to see if I can get the dishwasher to power up and then if it does I know that’s the fix and can get the proper one but obviously I don’t know what caused the components to fail originally so don’t want to risk setting fire to my house!

Thanks.

[carlos_uk]

Another update…….

The chip arrived a few days ago and I’ve successfully soldered that onto the board however I ordered the wrong resistor by mistake as I misread the description on eBay and got the wrong wattage (way too low).

I presume it’s definitely a fusible resistor I need as I’m having great difficulty getting hold of one as all the places that have them want to charge me loads for postage as I obviously just want to buy a few which eBay seems to be the best choice for this but they all just seem to be “standard” resistors?

Thanks.

[carlos_uk]

Quick update, I’ve been unable to locate the full control board, apparently there are different variants for my model and the board required is obsolete and no longer available, I’ve got the correct part number from Beko and apparently there are no other boards that are compatible so I’ve opted for repairing the existing board and am awaiting the components to be delivered so will see what that brings, at least if this doesn’t work I’ve done everything I can to bring it back to life and will satisfy my principles that I inherited from my late grandfather that you should attempt to repair something if feasible before giving up on it.

I will of course post an update with how I get on

[carlos_uk]

I’ve found a picture of the board (thanks google) which I’ve linked below and from looking at the colour codes am I right in thinking it’s a 32ohm resistor?

Thanks.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkVMp3_0qR4em7cIH6E0MHjllKR0nQ

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