ChrisK

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Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • in reply to: Smeg DW1612C suspect control board? #296930
    ChrisK
    Participant

    Re: Smeg DW1612C suspect control board?

    Penguin45 wrote:

    ChrisK wrote:
    Or perhaps putting a washing machine inlet solenoid in circuit instead?

    That’ll work for testing purposes.

    Aye – that’s what I meant.

    I’ll try that then.

    Thanks.

    in reply to: Smeg DW1612C suspect control board? #296928
    ChrisK
    Participant

    Re: Smeg DW1612C suspect control board?

    Well, I got the control board back form QER with no fault found. So, the next thing to try will be the mains supressor and the soap dispenser.

    Anyone know if there’s some way of diagnosing a problem with the soap dispenser that doesn’t involve buying and swapping for a new one (I think they’re about £40)? How about just disconnecting the solenoid so that it’s open circuit? Or perhaps putting a washing machine inlet solenoid in circuit instead?

    in reply to: Smeg DW1612C suspect control board? #296926
    ChrisK
    Participant

    Re: Smeg DW1612C suspect control board?

    mairclan wrote:There is an ebay seller that offers a PCB test and repair service for these, with 25{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} refund if no fault found and 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} if unrepairable.

    It is about £48 which is a lot cheaper than a new PCB.

    Have you got his ebay ID? 🙂

    No worries – Found it.

    Thanks

    in reply to: Smeg DW1612C suspect control board? #296925
    ChrisK
    Participant

    Re: Smeg DW1612C suspect control board?

    Thanks for the reply and that link. So if it’s not the capacitor (I’m fairly sure that it’s not the door lock) it’s a gamble between PCB and soap dispenser – both of which will no doubt be very expensive parts.

    Oh well, thanks again.

    in reply to: Indesit wi101 #180947
    ChrisK
    Participant

    Re: Indesit wi101

    Can’t be certain about the particular model you’re talking about, but usually the element is held in place by a nut tightened on to a metal plate. If you remove the nut the element should just pull out. It might take a bit of a tug to free off the rubber seal behind the plate. Isolate the machine from the mains before attempting this! (that means take the plug out of the socket)

    in reply to: Correct Stat for a Scandinova LF111D? #180894
    ChrisK
    Participant

    Re: Correct Stat for a Scandinova LF111D?

    Thanks Dave 😀

    in reply to: dishwasher element #180856
    ChrisK
    Participant

    Re: dishwasher element

    Have a look at the element. Can you see any splits, blisters or ‘pops’ where the outer sheath of the element has burst open? Can you feel any areas where the element is obviously swollen? !!best unplug the dishwasher before you do this!! If yes to any of the above then the element needs replacing.

    Chris

    in reply to: Correct Stat for a Scandinova LF111D? #180892
    ChrisK
    Participant

    Re: Correct Stat for a Scandinova LF111D?

    It’s definately wrong – the one I’ve been sent is the type with only 2 terminals (I presume it for a fridge without a defrost cycle?). The capillary, though not quite as long as the original, was just long enough. Yeah, I know that they are fairly universal – I just can’t remember the specific Danfoss type so that I can go back to the supplier and tell him what I want.

    Cheers, Chris

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