[colint]

Re: Bosch WFB2004 drip/leak

colint wrote:I also took a small sensor (temp?) out of a black rubber grommet in order to get the front drum plate off, and then later replaced it in the grommet. It came out easily, so don’t think there was any kind of sealant, but it’s possible that that’s where the leak is.

I’m considering opening it up again, and putting some silicon lubricant (the type you use on push-fit plumbing fittings) on the tub seal and the black grommet in an effort to make them seal better — anyone see any problems with that? (I would use Vaseline, but I’m worried that it will cause the rubber seals to degenerate.)

Thanks!

Colin

[colint]

Re: Bosch WFB2004 drip/leak

Martin wrote:I think you’ll fine Steve that this gentleman has removed the front panel and taken off the front tub barrel clamp. He’s then taken the front drum plate counterweight off them lumped the machine up 3 flights of stairs and reassembled it! 😯

🙂 Yup, you’ve got it! I wasn’t daunted by the task, having worked on a few different machines over the years, including replacing drum bearings, etc.

I’m not planning to use or test it while it has the leak, I’d like to sort the leak first. When I took it apart I did release the door seal from the front panel, but left the door seal connected to the drum plate, so I don’t think that’s where the leak is — I will double-check though.

What I forgot to mention, was that I also took a small sensor (temp?) out of a black rubber grommet in order to get the front drum plate off, and then later replaced it in the grommet. It came out easily, so don’t think there was any kind of sealant, but it’s possible that that’s where the leak is — quite difficult to see where it’s originating…

Thanks!

Colin

[colint]

Re: Zanussi WDT1065 bearing help

linkgreen wrote:I’m not sure whether to scrap the zanussi or buy a new machine.
My wife has just informed me that she wants a new machine!!

Yes, we had the same dilemma. I think they are worth repairing, we’ve had very good service from ours. A friend replaced an old machine about a year ago, with a fancier, more electronic machine, and has had endless trouble with it playing up in different ways during the cycle — maybe it was just bad luck.

linkgreen wrote:Whatever happens thanks for all the help.

Sure!

[colint]

Re: Zanussi WDT1065 bearing help

linkgreen wrote:where did you buy your kit

From this site! (Excellent service.) Sounds like a similar price, ask for a quote.

linkgreen wrote:Can you outline how to do it and if any special tools are required.

Sure. I’m no expert, but I guess my skill/experience level is similar to yours.
Basic procedure (from memory):
Only need to take the top and back off, then disconnect any hoses/pipes/wires from the drum, and remove the the drive belt and pulley. Remove the motor and heating element. Remove cement counterweight from drum. From front of machine, remove complete door seal (need to release the toothed connector on thin white plastic ring which holds outside of seal by sliding the toothed bit sideways. Inner side of seal is just hooked over a lip on the drum). After you’re sure there’s nothing connected to the drum anymore, remove the pins that hold the drum supports from below (plastic ‘pegs’ that have a small key to prevent them coming out. I found the easiest way was to tap the peg with a small hammer, or similar, until the key stops it, then press the key in with a flat screwdriver while tapping the peg out. I also found it easier to get to the top of one support, and the bottom of the other — you only need to release one side of each of the supports at this stage.) At this point I closed the door and lay the machine on its front, on something soft (and absorbant!) which makes it easier to release the 2 springs holding the drum up. The drum should be completely free now, and you can lift it up out of the machine. Remove all of the bolts holding the 2 halves together, and separate the halves. Remove the wire clip that holds the heating element in place. Screw the bolt that held the pulley back into its hole. Supporting the drum half somehow so that it doesn’t get damaged, whack the pulley bolt with a hammer until you’ve driven the shaft out. Obviously be careful that you damage the bolt head and thread as little as possible. You now need to remove the remains of the old bearings, without damaging the sleeve, which was the trickiest bit for me. Depending on the state of the shaft, you might need to replace that as well as the bearings.

Putting it back together is pretty straightforward. The bearing kit I got had 2 rubber seals, but I’m sure I only needed one of them. (Don’t forget the grease, like I did!). Obviously don’t damage the bearings when you tap them in. I put the inner one and its seal on first, then assembled the inner drum and outer half, then put the outer bearing on the shaft and tapped it into place. Easiest way to get door seal in place is to put seal onto drum before it goes into machine, then stretch the stretchy spring into its groove (I needed a second pair of hands for that).

Think that’s all, I’ll add anything else I remember.

Tools (apart from obvious):
– 7, 8, 10, 13 and 17mm sockets or spanners
– cordless screwdriver that can take 8mm socket useful to remove all the bolts holding drum halves together.
– something to help get the old bearings out (penetrating oil, old blunt chisel used with care, in my case, maybe there’s a better way.)
– long nosed pliers useful to get supporting springs back into place.

Good luck!

[colint]

Re: Replacing bearings on AEG 1271 washer/dryer

colint wrote:I’ve decided to abandon the AEG repair.

Going to take the AEG to the tip, which seems a great pity, so much of it works fine. Is it worth removing any small expensive parts that may be of use to anyone else repairing a similar machine in the future?

[colint]

Re: Zanussi WDT1065 bearing help

clivejameson wrote:The grease is used to lubricate the flanges of the bearing seal…if you didn’t use any then you may get a premature failure of the seal leading to bearing failure again 😯

Is the flange the part of the seal that runs against the brass collar on the shaft? Is the grease necessary to keep the water out, or to lubricate the seal so that the seal itself doesn’t wear out?
Thanks!

[colint]

Re: Zanussi WDT1065 bearing help

Most of us use an LM type grease available from any motor factors.

Hi
I’ve recently replaced bearings on a Zanussi (FL1084, which sounds a little different to this one) but I’m interested to know more details about where the grease should go — I didn’t put any in!

Thanks

Colin

[colint]

Re: Replacing bearings on AEG 1271 washer/dryer

Thanks for the speedy reply!
Posting mainly for other’s benefit, as I’ve decided to abandon the AEG repair — the shaft looks pretty rusty, and I suspect there are too many parts needed to make it worth the effort.
I battled a bit, because the rim of the drum were bent over the ends of the three-legged cross piece, keeping it trapped even after I’d removed all the securing bolts. I wasn’t sure whether someone had done that in a previous repair, or whether they were supposed to be like that. Anyway, straightened them out, and the cross piece came out easily (but the rear face of the stainless steel drum has been pushed inwards — doesn’t look like that would be a problem if I pushed it back out again.)

Thanks again for an excellent site (and parts service!)

Colin

[Author]

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