[dampshirts]

Re: White Knight Tumble Dryer

Sorry, forgot to login before posting

Ed

[dampshirts]

Re: White Knight Tumble Dryer

Final try for any ideas before I attack the cupboard with an axe and go out and buy a Bosch (I’d love a Meile, matbe my Lottery numbers will come up tonight).
I’ve tested the socket, another appliance works.
The fuse, it passes a current.
When the timer is switched on it ticks, current present.
Door switch, zero resistance across contacts when door shut
Fluff switch,(don’t know if it’s the right name but it’s in the outlet air path just after the filter) zero resistance across the contacts.
Heater switch (the one with the pop-up button), zero resistance across both sets of contacts.
Could a faulty heater switch cause a variable delay before failing?
Is there anything else I can test?

Thanks guys

Ed

[dampshirts]

Re: What happened to my post?

Well, as I’ve tested all the timer contacts and they seem ok I’m reluctantly agreeing with your diagnosis.
The question is what should I replace this heap of junk with? This is the second one I have had, the first ripped the bearing plate from the backplate after about 3 years and this one only lasted 18 months. The reason for choosing this model is that it appears to be the only compact with a rear vent. Would it be better to rip out the cupboard that it fits in and replace it with a standard one which should just fit, if so which are the most reliable?

Anybody want a condensor (or other parts except the motor of course)?

Thanks for your advice

Ed

[dampshirts]

Re: What happened to my post?

Changed the capacitor – but it still will not start. Should it start immediately or is there a delay while it heats up?

Thanks

Ed

[dampshirts]

Re: What happened to my post?

Hi Dave,
It’s a CL382 WV.
It had been taking 2-30 minutes to start after turning the dial from cold. Once it had started it would take load after load without problem, but leave it a few hours and it would take a while to start.
Now it does not want to start at all, yesterday we left it on for over an hour without it starting.
I’ve tried the obvious, there is power to the socket, the timer ticks when the power is on. When the timer is off no current passes between the live and neutral wires but it does when the timer is on. The sensors all (door, fluff, heater) all pass a current. Strangely the high/low heat switch only has 2 wires and passes a current in both positions (how does this work?).
Could it be the capacitor(?) attached to the motor? I presume this is to give it a belt of current at startup to overcome the inertia of the drum.

Thanks

Ed

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