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Re: Diplomat Washer Dryer – Tub banging
Thanks for the advice. Couple of other things. The washer is just a push fit in the space, as it is integrated, should it be fastened in, or is this correct. It is just it felt a bit front heavy and inclined to tip forward with very little effort. Didn’t know if this was contributing to the problem. Also, the drain hose is connected to the trap under the sink and not a separate stand pipe. It is well routed and at it’s highest point it is touching the underside of the work top so there should be no risk of siphoning. The only thing is it is just a push fit on the spigot and not particularly tight. Should it be fastened on with a jubilee clip or something? Don’t like the idea of it coming off and flooding the flat.
Re the suspension dampers, from what I could see, there are two springs at the top suspending the tub, one either side. At the bottom, I couldn’t see very clearly, but it looked like two more springs shrouded in some kind of casing. Are these the dampers? How do I check them, would a broken one be obvious?
Re: New door seal needed
The model number on the sticker could be 8702 which uses the same seal as model 8721 so would make sense. I will order the seal for APM8702/8721 and see if it fits.
How do you get at the inner seal clamp, from the top or the bottom?
Re: Hoover/Candy washer dryer common problem
That is the problem I have, I can’t find anything else. There are 3 items on the heater box, two TOC’s that appear re-settable and the third which I think must be the thermostat. All are testing OK for closed circuit but whilst there is power to the front TOC there is no power at the heating element. The element itself tests ok for continuity and resistance, it just appears to be missing any power. I got a price for the dryer control module but at £60 plus VAT and delivery and not knowing if this is actually the problem, it is getting to the point where it may be better just to scrap the machine and get a replacement, especially if they are as fragile as people suggest.
Re: Candy CNW156 – Dryer problem, tried everything still no
I have done a bit more testing. There is power to the TOC (both in and out) that is at the front of the heating unit. This has white and brown wires running to it. There is no power to the thermostat or the other TOC. These have green wires running to them and appear to be wired TOC to thermostat in, thermostat out to heating element but I suspect that this nay be the neutral side of the circuit as the other side of the heating element has slightly thicker white wires running to it. Everything appears to be correct, TOCs not tripped, power to the main TOC, thermostat closed circuit, resistance across the heating elements, etc., the only problem appears to be a complete lack of power to the heating element.
Anyone know what controls power to the heating element? The PCB control unit on the bottom rail at the back does not appear to have anything large enough for a mains power switching circuit, so if it is controlled by this then I would have thought it would need to do it by some form of switching relay. As everything else looks OK, then I am leaning towards changing out the control unit but I need to understand how the power is switched to explain the lack of power at the heating element. Anyone got any good ideas. Do you know if Candy/Hoover operate a tech support line that could offer useful advice (other than provide a Hoover service engineer who is likely to just start replacing parts). Are circuit diagrams available for these machines so I can figure out how the power is switched?
Re: Candy CNW156 – Dryer problem, tried everything still no
Yes, I found this unit, housed in a white plastic case about 4″ x 3″. Is there anyway to test this or is it just a case of replacing and seeing if it cures the problem. Is it likely to be this unit given that everything else is working, fan, drum, condensing solenoid, pump, etc. I will send an email to get the price of the part anyway but from what I have read these £300 washer dryers appear not to be of the best quality or most reliable. If the part is too much, it may be better to scrap the washer and replace it with a better quality unit that will be more reliable. Any suggestions? Which ones do you have the least call outs to and which ones should be avoided (most call outs), although I am sure price will skew these figures as there will be more of the cheaper units out there and fewer of the more expensive ones.
Re: Candy CNW156 – Dryer problem, tried everything still no
Oops, sorry, my mistake, but it worked anyway, the rubber tube that connects the condenser unit to the drum was completely blocked as was a good portion of the condenser unit itself. I assume that this can cause all sorts of problems such as not condensing the steam and probably overheating.
There are two TOCS, one at the front of the aluminium heating element housing (next to what I think is the thermostat), the other at the rear of the housing close to the four terminals that I think are the heater element(s). Both have pins coming out the top with brown caps. Both do not appear to have tripped (won’t push in) and they test as closed circuits (with the wires removed). I have tried tracing some of the wires for continuity (thermostat to rear TOC, rear TOC to heater element) but then everything disappears into the wiring loom and without a wiring diagram I don’t know where to start. There is obviously power in the dryer circuit as everything else works normally so I assume the problem is that something has overheated and tripped but I don’t know what. I could just start replacing parts but I could end up replacing everything and still not fix the problem. All advice is very much appreciated.
