[daveandjack]

Re: Built-in gas oven

Hi,

Thanks for the info – it is much appreciated.

I agree with you entirely the grill – to us this is hugely important as it is probably the single most used feature of our existing (stand alone) gas oven.

Regarding the comment about microwaves above ovens – does this refer to stand alone microwaves with build in kits, or does it also apply to those which look like the manufacturer has intended them to be mounted like this? For example, Hotpoint have the MWH434AX which looks (and costs!) more like an oven that happens to be able to microwave as well, rather than a microwave which can also grill.

Thanks.

[daveandjack]

Re: Built-in gas oven

Hi folks,

I have downloaded the manual for the Sharp R98STMAA combination microwave with the intention of getting the mounting kit and mounting this in an appliance cabinet above the oven.

However, page 5 of the manual, in the section about the mounting kit, says…

“The microwave oven is not designed to be built above or near a conventional oven”…

I take it that this means this is a non-starter?

Can anyone advise, thanks?

[daveandjack]

Re: Built-in gas oven

Thanks for all the advice!

Since my original posting, we’ve come the conclusion that, given the scarcity of players in the gas market, we’d bite the bullet and have a cooker radial put in. Also, given the comments about the height of the microwave, we’ve reverted to a single oven and combination microwave.

We were about to go for Hotpoint OS987CIX and MWH434AX as this is a single oven which can be split into 2 and a combination microwave.

However, reading around this site, it seems that Samsung do a similar type of oven (which is a bit cheaper) and that Sharp do fitting kits which allow their microwaves to be intergrated (and this works out a LOT cheaper).

Other than the fact that the Samsung and Sharp wouldn’t match, can anyone suggest which option would be best (in terms of lifetime cost and funtionality)?

Thanks

[daveandjack]

Re: Built-in gas oven

Thanks Don,

Do you have any particular experience of the Hotpoint DY330G as this seems to be the only one which includes a variable gas grill (which we think is important) and fan cooling (which, having read the advice on this site, also seems to be rather important!)? I don’t know why, but I feel really uneasy about the New World/Belling/Stoves ovens – of the few reviews I’ve found, I found some really bad ones about Stoves and they’re the top range.

On a related note, does anyone know if its possible to install this type of double unit in a tall appliance cupboard and still have room to mount an integrated microwave above it at a sensible height?

Thanks

[daveandjack]

Re: Hoover HD97e problem

I have discovered the following:

The pump is a permanent split capacitor type. When its running, there is 240Vac across one coil, and 120Vac across the second coil (with the capacitor in series).

When the pump stops, there is no voltage being applied to it.

The pump is controlled by a Triac (Philips BT137). The gate of the triac is controlled from the microprocessor via an NPN transistor. When the pump starts, a DC voltage appears to be applied to the gate of the Triac. After a while, the voltage on the gate disappears but the pump continues to run. When the pump stops, there is no voltage on the gate (but, then again, there wasn’t any voltage there when it was running). I have tried replacing the triac but the fault remains. When I flick the door switch, or power off and on again, there is still no voltage on the triac gate but the pump starts to run again.

Anyone any idea what is going on here?

Thanks.

[daveandjack]

Re: Hoover HD97e problem

Hi,
Thanks for the reply – here are some answers to your thoughts.
1. There are no error codes showing
2. At first, I re-started the machine by opening and closing the door but I soon realised it was the action of operating the microswitch which did the trick. I hold the door closed and operate the handle so the door remains shut but the circuit is opened and closed again. The machine can also be re-started by simply turning it off and then on again. In other words, it seems to be the action of removing and then re-applying power which kicks it back into life. Strangely, the power is not removed for long enough for the controller to think the door has been opened as the program just continues as normal (if you open the door properly, the program stops and you have to press START when you close the door).
3. I’ve had it t bits and cleaned/de-scaled all the pipes, pressure vessel, sump,etc. even though there was no sign of scale build up or gunk anyway.
4. I’m loathe to pay Hoover 33{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the cost of the machine only to find they fix it with an inexpensive part (or indeed none at all). Sure, the parts guarantee is value for money if you need a new pump or a new control board but otherwise it seems a rip off.

I was hoping someone would say that a pump stopping and re-starting when you re-apply power was a known pump problem rather than a specific problem with this machine. Guess life’s not like that.

I’m an electronics engineer by trade and if I were faced with this problem at work I’d simply put a meter across the pump terminals and see if the there was power present even when it had stopped. If not, I’d look at the output from the control board (I managed to acquire a wiring diagram for the machine so I know what goes where). For some reason, I feel reluctanct to do this in my own kitchen at home – perhaps its that combination of electricity, water, and the fact the bit you want to get to is underneath the damn thing….

[Author]

Posts