[davidb1]

Sorry for the huge delay in replying and thanks for the info you sent – the washing machine was mostly working (but often not opening the door at the end of the cycle). The test programme completed ok a few months ago.

Unfortunately it has now gotten worse and refuses to spin and shows F3 (and F1 with the door open).

I completely removed the drain hose and rodded it and jetted it out in the garden – now clean as a whistle. And checked carefully in the drain pump housing for any objects

I also disconnected the level tube from the sump gasket and cleaned out – it had some gunge at the base but wasn’t that bad. Resealed with a jubilee clip.

The test programme now fails ‘Fault during draining’ after the wash 20 minute leak test (so L4 and L6 illuminate) but the drain pump strongly discharged lots of water into an open sink (for testing) – so I assume it doesn’t think it has got to P1 level (empty) – so back to the level issue. However I did notice that it DID achieve two levels in the test programme – just to the base of the drum (P2) and some way up the glass (P6).

So since it passed the leak test (is this for air rather than water?) and achieved the two levels it looks like the pressure sensor is working?

I got 0.58v for the pressure sensor between pins 1 and 2 (counting from the back of the washer) and 0.07V between pins 1 and 3 whilst running the drain cycle which looks about right as per the manual.

And if I run a normal drain cycle it fails with F3.

However if I open the door and turn on the machine it starts the drain pump and shows F1

I am now wondering if it is the level switch instead (related to door level and overfilling). NB I managed to check that the level switch connector blocks are definitely the right way round (noticed one has a few lugs that prevents it being installed in the wrong terminal)

Any more ideas?

Thanks again

David

[davidb1]

I sent a PM, thanks
I found the schematic and my concern is whether I have cross wired N12 and N16 – looks like I will need to get access to the control board socket 4 to double check. Or should I just replace the analog pressure sensor and try that? (something was broken before I opened the washer!). Also the drain pump came on for a short time 10 minutes after a rinse cycle with the door open! But it did do a ?cold wash with ok levels on the rinse cycles – looked a bit low on the washing powder stage. And the door didn’t release automatically at the end.
Thanks
David

[davidb1]

Thanks for that [USER=”3176″]iadom[/USER] – really useful. After reconnecting the tubing it was overfilling (half way up the tub). I then spotted that one of the three traces (under the cover) on the pressure sensor had come adrift which my son re-soldered. Now it fills to the right level but doesn’t open the door at the end of the cycle (which was an intermittent fault before)
So it looks like the analogue level switch?? (issues with overfilling and door lock) However….
Do you have the repair manual / wiring diagram since when I removed the wiring connectors on the level switch I was alarmed to see that the two single connectors were indistinguishable and I now worry I might have connected them the wrong way around. Always take a photograph before doing anything! As per the link above I have definitely connected on the right pins (bottom pin unused). I could then trace to where it connects onto the control panel.
Thanks
David

[davidb1]

Re: Bosch SGV59TO3GB/10 rotors don’t spray

Ok so I removed the pump and it was a detached impeller (blades separated from base). Make sure you read the repair manual – google ‘bosch repair manual shu’. Different model but 99.5{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} the same. Interesting that bosch redesigned the impeller about 10 years ago and the new design failed in an identical manner!
You *do* need to lift up the rhs of the tank by about an inch in order to rotate the pump off the sump housing. You also need to document / photograph the connections to the controller unit, disconnect the connectors and remove the control unit (fixing tab on the back of the control unit). Also see this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPmFP3WU0Dw – see the notes to the video and remember to disconnect the sump clamps as per the manual.
Reinserting the motor wasn’t too bad- just remember to support the sump. And detach/reattach the two rubber motor suspension straps before and after motor removal / insertion steps.

[davidb1]

Re: ISE 1606W not heating the water

Just as a follow up – completely removed the hose into the drum, cleaned it up with acetone and glued back in with debor (product sheet for debor says it contains acetone so I reckoned acetone safe as a cleaner)
Waited 36 hours and tested – no leaks! Also ran some cleaning tablets.
Dried out thermistor and now the 95 degree wash reliably heats the glass. Not sure about the 60 degree wash but assume is ok.
Really surprised (disappointed) that there is no flood detection on the ISE since the bottom plate is quite corroded – must have had the problem quite a while and a musty room too!
Thanks for all the help on this

[davidb1]

Re: ISE 1606W not heating the water

I’ve tried plenty of maintenance washes – obvious issue is that the water doesn’t heat often since the thermistor is mostly wet.
You suggested sealing the hose inlet into the drum – can this be done after thorough cleaning with e.g. silicone sealant or does the joint need to be remade from the inside which I assume would need the drum disassembled.
So can this be fixed diy, do I need an engineer or will this be too expensive to fix
Thanks
David

[davidb1]

Re: ISE 1606W not heating the water

Ok that seems to be it ,thanks
There is mild corrosion around the bottom front of the soap tray, around the thermistor connection hole and also on the base plate of the machine. I dried everything off and cleaned the soap tray and checked that the soap tray drain tube wasn’t blocked (flexible along the tube).

Tried the washer again several times and found a small puddle on the base plate. Then I noticed that there is a seepage from where the soap drain tube connects into the drum – the outside of the drum is wet and this is in line to get into the thermistor housing. Seen someone suggest that there might be clothing blocking the outlet but don’t see how that could get between the drums with as ISE.
Is this gasket leak (economically) repairable?
Thanks
David

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