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Found the relevant 20mm hole in the sump/tub (which faces the back right) and managed to get a long handled thin bottle brush right up the pipe to the connector to the pressure controller (spring clip on the black pipe). Got a load of crud out of it and after several induced rinse cycles it now seems to have got rid of a number of loose black bits of crud that were freed up in the process but I couldn’t collect manually.
So without having to detach the black pipe from the pressure controller the outflow is back to normal and now the machine works fine again with no overflow through the holes provided.
Thank you so much for your advice Dave…happy wife=happy life..now watching the football with a beer.[INDENT]Having bought a analogue thermometer it shows the freezer is about -30C. It’s off the scale of the analogue one i.e. its below -20C which is the lowest temperature shown on the dial. I get the -30C reading from my digital thermometer though its not meant for freezers! (when I take it out of the freezer the LCD screen shows nothing..it comes back as it warms up. But as its a max/min I can check the historical minimum when all’s visible again and that’s -30.
So the freezer is way too cold and the fridge is too warm..presumably the coolant is not flowing properly..but what could be stopping it going up to the fridge’s cooling panel? The freezer is working well (too well!!.. on the normal stat setting that the unit’s been on for 18 years.) I’m a bit baffled..I think the single thermostat controls the temperature of both parts of the unit (fridge and freezer) simultaneously..i.e. you turn dial to maximum 5 and the fridge and the freezer both get colder together.
I suppose the lack of delivery of coolant to the (hidden) fridge cooling panel could be a blockage of sorts, an air-lock???, or a thermostat related issue. I am no expert (quite clearly) but it’s odd. If it was a faulty thermostat wouldn’t either both boxes (fridge and freezer cabinets) be either too cold or too hot..or not working at all.
I’m just wondering if the very low freezer reading is because the compressor is running for too long or even24/7..but then if so why wouldn’t the fridge also be very cold??
Baffled like I said![/INDENT]
“cant be anything wrong with refrigeration gear” – tha’ts what I thought..TonyRs post prompted me to set stat to 5 /max cold maybe thats why ist colder than the other day..or maybe I left the thermometer in longer!!.
Thank you electrofix for all your help..much appreciated in these strange times. Pretty old and have been self isolating for 2 months now..don’t even know if I can get a pro out to look. I have another fridge though!!..and I’m loathe to mess to much as the freezer is full.thanks TonyR and electrofix.>TonyR ..I will turn up to max(5|) and so max coolness…and see what happens.The freezer was fine on temperature.i.e. -17.5C
>electrofix – thanks it’s a 1992 purchased Whirlpool ARG 917 built-in… also says “Type CB281W” and TR915020546 on the spec plate in fridge compartment..oh and Made in Italy. Not sure what a “12nc number” is? It’s a single compressor f/f unit first sold in 1990. Never had a moments trouble with it. Would like to fix rather than replace if possible and not prohibitively expensive.
> TonyR..thanks..what I meant above/below was that you can switch it all off using the dial knob which runs 5,4,3,2,1,0.5, <, then a black dot is off. Fridge light goes out & everything stops.
No ice block on wall (do you mean in the fridge or freezer part? ..but no ice blocks anywhere). We were away for six weeks Feb/March..and it was empty/switched off for the duration. It started up fine and for the last 6 weeks it’s been working normally..until a few days ago (the freezer is not all iced up and in need of a thaw).
I notice the back wall of the fridge about half way up gets warm now and again..but not all the time?? Freezer is full and given current situation don’t want to thaw it all out as nowhere to put food in freezer. Have another fridge so no big deal.Assume the stat controls both the fridge and freezer temp simultaneously?..ie move dial to say 4 and both fridge and freezer run colder?
Thank you Dave..sounds eminently logical. So the coolant(?) that’s pumped(?) up from the freezer unit to the fridge (fridge is up top on this unit) is not cool enough to cool the fridge adequately? Fridge ceased to be cool a few days back..as a cup of tea with just-off milk evidenced!
Just put a digital thermometer in freezer..will post when its had chance to cool properly.
Re: malber 460 inox washing machine
many thanks Dave.. I have 2 possible leads (no pun intended) which may be fruitful here but if I can’t get the right thing by Friday i’ll order one online ..any idea of postage cost to Cyprus?
Re: malber 460 inox washing machine
Penguin45..many thanks..really very much appreciated as was Martin’s help..what a wonderful thing the internet is!
Yes that looks like the one! ..but its tracking one down out here… where they do things differently (I’ve found!)
Do you think the so-called “replacement” one I have with the screwthread on one end and 5 spade terminals on the other ( and somewhat different capacitancewould cause problems if I used it? – based on my description etc…ie if I cant get another like the one that went fut.
‘Scuse my ignorance but how do I get in touch with Dave Conway if I can’t source a part here in Cyprus. The wife is getting pretty tetchy without her machine so ideally I need to find a replacement here tomorrow. I’ve been to many shops but they usually want to sell you a new machine. If I cant get one that’s pretty much identical tomorrow I may well try to get one from UK asap..though the slowness of the post here is legend!
Re: malber 460 inox washing machine
Thanks for the prompt reply about my Malber 460 problem Martin. Yes I think you’re right in that this part is something relatively simple..and its certainly at the mains entry end of things alright.
The duff part had 3 wires coming out of it… no spade terminals on it at all. Two are black…one to L, one to N and one with clear sheathing, to earth on the chassis. The 2 black wires were piggy backed on to the L and N terminals on the “out” (washer loom-side) of the first mains-in connector “plate” under the lid. This defective (cracked and blown) part with those 3 wires only is approx 40mm “tall” with a diameter of about 25mm
There is also another suppressor/capacitor in the same vicinity at the right rear of the machine. Its an Arcotronics component part 1.27 6SC3 and is 14mF +or -5{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} as far as I can see without taking it off. It is bolted on its threaded end into the mains entry “plate”. This measures 75mm x 35 mm dia. and has just two spade terminals on its other end connected to 2 black wires that go into the main loom. It is similar, if a bit “taller” ,to the replacement I just bought for the small part that’s just blown.
The new part (D.E.M. FLC 630501) I was offered as a replacement for the duff one (that’s cracked and blown) is approx 55mm “tall” with a diameter of about 40mm. It has a threaded end on one end like the Arcotronics part but has 5 spade terminals on the other. One is Earth..and the guy I bought it from said use terminals “1” and “2” for the 2 black wires that used to connect the duff part.
All abit complicated I know but any comments would be gratefully received.
Allegedly “Malber” is a local brand name used by a retailer here called Charalambous who have an outlet on the Polis road in Pafos (and elsewhere on the island I believe). From Internet searches I also inferred that similar machines were also badged as Whirlpool and Ariston though I don’t know if that is true. Also interesting/odd in the land of free hot water (almost every house has solar panels) is that nearly all washing machines are cold-fill only ..or that was certainly the case when we bought the machine in 2000. I wonder why?
I am always wary of capacitors especially big-uns..how do the pros make them safe i.e. get rid of residual juice when they have to work on them??
Btw ..you’ll be pleased to know that the weather is better now but that storm on Sunday night around 7pm was a real mother and the streets here were well awash with what must be the first proper rain for 5 months!
