[ericthelobster]

Re: Bosch SGV4313GB/17: solved cleaning problem… I think!

Thanks for that. So are both of the red things air vent valves?

Incidentally, do all dishwashers get clogged up in this manner, or is this a design flaw of mine? Particularly poor that it’s effectively uncleanable, IMHO. I couldn’t believe the amount of black gunge fouling up the moving parts, and the putrefying smell… is there anything that can be done to prevent recurrence?

[ericthelobster]

Re: Bosch SGV4313GB/17 – doesn’t switch off when door opens

Penguin45 wrote:The water spilt into the base is running the flood protection system?

Mr Penguin, sir, you are a complete star! That’s exactly it – problem solved.

(Well, solved, that is, apart from finding out where the hell the leak is coming from; however, judging by the yuck factor of the leaked gunge it must be an extremely slow leak. Watch out for the next installment here in a couple of months – ‘How do you track down leaks in dishwashers’…)

Thanks again.

[ericthelobster]

wsts wrote:The part which has gone is directly fitted to the gas pipe on the system.

You can be that certain, from the info I supplied? Which component is that?

If it’s something integral to the gas supply then TBH no, I wouldn’t consider trying to diy it; however I could still test it in situ with a multimeter; cost up a pro repair and decide if it’s even worth the call-out fee, rather than just scrapping the oven 🙁

[ericthelobster]

kwatt wrote:The reason Gegsy’s said that Eric is that there’s a 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} chance that, being a built-in oven, it’ll be hard piped in there

Well, I guess that puts me in the 1{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} as mine (as fitted by a CORGI) is on a hose/bayonet.

kwatt wrote:it’s a case of sitting down with a muti-meter to find out what’s shorting. Often a painful process.

Mm, I figured as much: that’s the bit I’d hoped to get some advice over really.

[ericthelobster]

Re: Electrolux EOG 660 gas oven tripping MCB

gegsy wrote:Without sounding negative, you really have to get a Corgi guy to fix your oven as we couldn’t possibly advise you or anyone in the public forum to work on any gas appliance.

But this is an electrical fault; chances are it has nothing whatever to do with the gas side of the appliance, and if as I suspect it’s a case of simply swapping out a component like, say, the spark generator, that would in no way compromise gas safety.

(BTW I won’t get into an argument as to whether or not as a non-CORGI home owner I am competent and permitted to maintain my own gas appliance!)

[ericthelobster]

Re: Bosch not cleaning in top rack (rotor is clean!)

Penguin45 wrote:The model number is engraved in the top edge of the inner door panel. Without it, we will struggle to give specific advice relevant to your appliance.

Ah, found it! It was covered in a coffee stain or something. It’s SGV4313GV/17.

Machine does seems OK now, having done one full wash since re-routing the waste pipe yesterday; however I’m still concerned about the potential siphoning issue mentioned in my last posting?

Thanks

[ericthelobster]

Re: Bosch not cleaning in top rack (rotor is clean!)

Simon46 wrote:Check it straight after a completed cycle without using the sink. The hose should go down to the spigot not up to it or the contents of your sink will end up in your dishwasher.

OK, thanks will do: it certainly looks as if the hose has been coming up to the spigot not down, which I have now put right. But even if the hose does go down to the spigot as you indicate it should, isn’t it still likely to suffer from ingressing sink water, by siphonage?

Unless there’s a non-return valve in the machine’s output, which I’d assumed? (Isn’t there likely to be one in a decent Bosch?)

Thanks!

[ericthelobster]

Re: Bosch not cleaning in top rack (rotor is clean!)

gegsy wrote:After the cycle the water in sump should be clean.
Probably you have an empty issue, or drain problem ie – where the waste of appliance feeds to. check for blockages.

OK, thanks for that: at least it’s start! I’ve disconnected the waste hose, which connects to the sink drain via a trap like this: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro … 9&id=12794.

When I disconnected the waste hose and startes a cycle, the machine seemed to be pumping out waste water vigorously enough. The sink outlet and U-bend are clear; I just wonder, given the configuration of the waste connections below the sink, it’s likely that the junction of the waste outlet with the trap is under water? Could it be sucking that back into the machine or something? I would assume the machine would have an anti-syphon device, however?

If not; then why would I have dirty water in the sump after a wash, if the pump out is operating OK?

Thanks!

[ericthelobster]

Re: Need thermostat for Creda 37543 tumble drier

Well I’m glad I gave up removing screws and panels – I’m sure the access panel on the base would have been the very last I would have found! Yes, I have two jockey pulley; and it’s these I’d need to replace to cure the screeching?

Not sure about the economics of repair to be honest, as the machine’s at least 15 years old. Will have to think about it! Are the prices you’ve quoted including VAT and delivery? How would I go about ordering the bits?

Thanks
David

[ericthelobster]

Re: Seeking parts diagrams on http://www.hotpointservice.co.uk

Thanks – I had found that page in fact, but I still can’t see where the diagrams are! Maybe I’m being a bit dense…

I was actually after an exploded diagram of my Creda 37543 tumble drier (see my earlier post!) to help my locate where the motor/pulley access is!

David

[ericthelobster]

Re: Need thermostat for Creda 37543 tumble drier

Thanks Dave.

Yes, it’s the thermostat above the heater (didn’t realise there was any other one actually!) It’s fallen apart.

While the back was off, I note that two of the ceramic supports that hold the heating element are cracked or broken, so by rights I’m looking at a new heating element too I suppose? Until the stat went, the machine was working fine, but presumably it would be bad news if the element shorted out on itself? Is this machine looking cost-effective to repair still?

Finally – please could you tell me how I access the pulley to check the belt? I’ve undone several panels and screws to no avail, so thought I may as well ask the question!!

Thanks
David

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