[GML]

Re: Fisher and Paykel SmartDrive error 49 beeps during rinse

Thanks for the tips on error 49.

I replaced the solenoid but still had binary 49 LED code. I chased the circuit through the Motor Controller (brown one in Australia) GW712.

It was a couple of FETS or Qs in a H drive. The get fed their +v from the main power rectifier. There is a funny looking round component called F^ which is a quick blow 1.6 A fuse. Because my solenoid had a shorted turn on it (bubling to outside packaging) it had blown this.

I didn’t have one instock so I substituted an ordinary glass 2AG 2.0amp fast blow. You need to remove the old fuse and solder 2 wires into the holes left these are inturn soldered to the fuse ends. I used hot glue to hold the fuse clear of any other components.

You can get slow blow fuses almost anywhere. In my experience ordinary fuses are the same they always fail after the components are lost anyhow!

If you are desperately dirty you could just jump the 2 holes with tinned copper but this could represent a fire hazard if a solenoid goes again.

We amke microcontrollers. It is a simple fix and saved me $350. A fuse is 10c or maybe $1 if you buy them one at a time. Make sure you test the plugs before you start up. My GW712 read:

1. Each motor winding ~ 35 ohms to any other
2. The lid solenoid ~ 70 ohms
3. Each water solenoid ~ 60 ohms
4.The thermistor ~ 10K ohms

# When this fault exists you can empty the water by removing the tube to the Pressure Xducer and using a tube from your mouth to blow into it HARD!!! The pump will start and pump it out for you.

To calculate the error code (for what use that is when you can find out)

LEDS indicating wash cycle

X X X X X X X X

128 64 32 16 8 4 2 1

Add the values for each light LED

[GML]

Re: Fisher&Paykel Intuitive Eco IW812 Error Code 49

Thanks for the tips on error 49.

I replaced the solenoid but still had binary 49 LED code. I chased the circuit through the Motor Controller (brown one in Australia) GW712.

It was a couple of FETS or Qs in a H drive. The get fed their +v from the main power rectifier. There is a funny looking round component called F^ which is a quick blow 1.6 A fuse. Because my solenoid had a shorted turn on it (bubling to outside packaging) it had blown this.

I didn’t have one instock so I substituted an ordinary glass 2AG 2.0amp fast blow. You need to remove the old fuse and solder 2 wires into the holes left these are inturn soldered to the fuse ends. I used hot glue to hold the fuse clear of any other components.

You can get slow blow fuses almost anywhere. In my experience ordinary fuses are the same they always fail after the components are lost anyhow!

If you are desperately dirty you could just jump the 2 holes with tinned copper but this could represent a fire hazard if a solenoid goes again.

We amke microcontrollers. It is a simple fix and saved me $350. A fuse is 10c or maybe $1 if you buy them one at a time. Make sure you test the plugs before you start up. My GW712 read:

1. Each motor winding ~ 35 ohms to any other
2. The lid solenoid ~ 70 ohms
3. Each water solenoid ~ 60 ohms
4.The thermistor ~ 10K ohms

# When this fault exists you can empty the water by removing the tube to the Pressure Xducer and using a tube from your mouth to blow into it HARD!!! The pump will start and pump it out for you.

To calculate the error code (for what use that is when you can find out)

LEDS indicating wash cycle

X X X X X X X X

128 64 32 16 8 4 2 1

Add the values for each light LED

[GML]

Re: F&P MW053 error 49 (00110001) Solenoid valve fault?

Thanks for the tips on error 49.

I replaced the solenoid but still had binary 49 LED code. I chased the circuit through the Motor Controller (brown one in Australia) GW712.

It was a couple of FETS or Qs in a H drive. The get fed their +v from the main power rectifier. There is a funny looking round component called F^ which is a quick blow 1.6 A fuse. Because my solenoid had a shorted turn on it (bubling to outside packaging) it had blown this.

I didn’t have one instock so I substituted an ordinary glass 2AG 2.0amp fast blow. You need to remove the old fuse and solder 2 wires into the holes left these are inturn soldered to the fuse ends. I used hot glue to hold the fuse clear of any other components.

You can get slow blow fuses almost anywhere. In my experience ordinary fuses are the same they always fail after the components are lost anyhow!

If you are desperately dirty you could just jump the 2 holes with tinned copper but this could represent a fire hazard if a solenoid goes again.

We amke microcontrollers. It is a simple fix and saved me $350. A fuse is 10c or maybe $1 if you buy them one at a time. Make sure you test the plugs before you start up. My GW712 read:

1. Each motor winding ~ 35 ohms to any other
2. The lid solenoid ~ 70 ohms
3. Each water solenoid ~ 60 ohms
4.The thermistor ~ 10K ohms

# When this fault exists you can empty the water by removing the tube to the Pressure Xducer and using a tube from your mouth to blow into it HARD!!! The pump will start and pump it out for you.

To calculate the error code (for what use that is when you can find out)

LEDS indicating wash cycle

X X X X X X X X

128 64 32 16 8 4 2 1

Add the values for each light LED

[GML]

Re: MW511 Error on power up (00110001)

Thanks for the tips on error 49.

I replaced the solenoid but still had binary 49 LED code. I chased the circuit through the Motor Controller (brown one in Australia) GW712.

It was a couple of FETS or Qs in a H drive. The get fed their +v from the main power rectifier. There is a funny looking round component called F^ which is a quick blow 1.6 A fuse. Because my solenoid had a shorted turn on it (bubling to outside packaging) it had blown this.

I didn’t have one instock so I substituted an ordinary glass 2AG 2.0amp fast blow. You need to remove the old fuse and solder 2 wires into the holes left these are inturn soldered to the fuse ends. I used hot glue to hold the fuse clear of any other components.

You can get slow blow fuses almost anywhere. In my experience ordinary fuses are the same they always fail after the components are lost anyhow!

If you are desperately dirty you could just jump the 2 holes with tinned copper but this could represent a fire hazard if a solenoid goes again.

We amke microcontrollers. It is a simple fix and saved me $350. A fuse is 10c or maybe $1 if you buy them one at a time. Make sure you test the plugs before you start up. My GW712 read:

1. Each motor winding ~ 35 ohms to any other
2. The lid solenoid ~ 70 ohms
3. Each water solenoid ~ 60 ohms
4.The thermistor ~ 10K ohms

# When this fault exists you can empty the water by removing the tube to the Pressure Xducer and using a tube from your mouth to blow into it HARD!!! The pump will start and pump it out for you.

To calculate the error code (for what use that is when you can find out)

LEDS indicating wash cycle

X X X X X X X X

128 64 32 16 8 4 2 1

Add the values for each light LED

[Author]

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