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Hi Dave, had a thorough look over the wiring again more carefully and you are correct, the heater wiring had rubbed through on the metal outer drum and with the larger load would throw the drum just enough to short out. I didn’t notice it last time as it’s hidden behind a metal reinforcement across the front of the machine and to be honest didn’t really expect it on a Miele. Repaired, rewrapped and clipped the wiring up so that it won’t happen again. Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated.
Worked a couple of washes on a different circuit and it’s doing it again, seems to be with the larger loads it fails mid wash. Does it sound likely that it could be the motor failing when turning the larger loads? It’s an induction motor so presumably should be quite reliable.
Indeed, really scratching my head over this one, the machine is full of water so must be mid wash when it went wrong. I did think heater like you said breaking down when hot however when I plug the machine back in and the heater must now be cold it turns the drum slightly then trips. Also I ran the maintenance wash on 90 degrees so if it was the heater failing you’d think it’d fail then.
I’m just wondering if the motor is failing with the heavier load?? but as I can’t pick up a fault on my meter I’m really not sure what else it could be.
I’m going to run an extension to another room on a different circuit and rule out a problem with the RCD.
Update – ran a maintenance wash which was fine, then a relatively small load which was also fine. Put a big load of bedding in and it’s tripped again. Any ideas? Meggered it and again readings are perfect. Any ideas?
Now you mention leaks where the door seal mounts onto the outer drum I could see signs of a small leak from there running down onto the heater shielding piece and into the base of the machine. Checked the seal for holes and didn’t see any so tightened the clamp ring on the drum a bit and that seems to have sorted it. I felt around it and there was a bit of moisture but nothing on the actual connections for the heater so can’t see as that had caused the tripping but maybe I’m wrong.
I’ll keep an eye on it, if it’s not that I can only think the socket is the problem as no earth faults were picked up on my megger.
I also managed to lift the cover on the main PCB board to check there’s no burning/ charring and from what I could see looked in order. Don’t want to remove the board fully as it looks a bit involved with the wiring etc.
No temperature written on it, it does however have some kind of code. On one side it’s got Z42K A115KG. Can’t read anything else but it does have a red dot on the top?? Don’t know if that has any relevance.
Hi again Dave, is there any way to find out what temperature the cut out gets activated at? Just wondering if I could find that out I might have a better chance at finding one to fit and keep it going a bit longer.
Ah well looks like a new ones in order, 18 years isn’t much to be sniffed at. Thanks for the help and info.
All it was as it failed these tests I was concerned it wasn’t safe and also these elements he found to have earth leakage wouldn’t last much longer so didn’t want to go to much trouble fixing 1 problem and find in a couple of weeks these elements give problems too.
Hi Dave, he identified that a thermal cut out at the back of the oven was causing it to no longer heat, he bypassed it by joining the wires together temporarily to see if it would now work which it did but said he couldn’t leave it bypassed as it wouldn’t be safe.
I’m really not sure what I’m doing past putting in a new element so if I was to get an engineer would they fit the new cut out even though it fails these insulation tests?
thanks
