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Re: Lamina Dishwasher LAM8601
No, I don’t think so. The float switch should reset automatically, although I suppose in theory it might stick in the open circuit position.
Re: Lamina Dishwasher LAM8601
[quote=”ekphones”
There was a small pool of water at the base of the machine (above the pump ?). I have dried out the water, but again no sign of any debris.
Any advice would be appreciated.Hi,
Was this water in the under-tray that is fixed to the bottom of the machine? It sounds as if you weren’t looking at the very base of the machine as you say it was above the pump?Many machines have a cut-out float switch situated at the very lowest point of the undertray. It is designed to cut out if more than about 1/2″ of water accumulates in the tray.
Re: zanussi ZJD-1219 NOT WORKING PLS HELP
iadom wrote:
GuyW wrote:
One thought – with the machine power button off
Or it could be the mains filter, or the main power pcb, or the door interlock or even the main motor, all of the above can be in circuit as soon as the start button is pressed.:
These items are NOT in the circuit when the power button is off. If it trips before the machine power button is pressed, then the fault is most likely on the upside of that power button.
– I say most likely, because the power button is probably not a dipole so there could be a earth leakage on the neutral that would still be sufficient to trip a mains ELCB..
<>
Maybe, but I have seen machines delivered from new where the spade connectors were bent, giving very little clearance such that the weight of cables bundled together was sufficient to cause a connection to bridge. And its an easy visual check to eliminate that possibility, however unlikely you may think it is.
Re: zanussi ZJD-1219 NOT WORKING PLS HELP
If it is tripping IMMEDIATELY you press the power button, then the fault is unlikely to be with a component that only starts up part-way through a programme cycle. e.g. the main motor isn’t switched on at the very beginning. Using this sort of logic you may be able to narrow down the fault a bit first by selecting different programmes. Given that it triggers the fault so early on, then it could be the control panel itself. Check the wiring connection tabs to the control panel and selector switch haven’t become bent and are shorting.
One thought – with the machine power button off – does it trip when you switch on the supply at the wall socket? If so it suggests a damaged power cable to the machine.
Re: Defrosting fridge
Alan,
A quick check on the door seal – obviously inspect the seal itself all the way round, the flexible plastic can split inside the fold/ concertina shape and this may not be immediately obvious.The other check is to slip a credit card between where the seal contacts the fridge body when the door is shut, and slide the card along, feeling to see if the card is being gripped equally all the way round. This should identify any gap where the seal isn’t properly contacting the door frame.
Re: Hotpoint Fault codes H20 and F01
Yes iadom, I got that: these modules are pants and EMW can test and/or repair them.
But my latter question was about the possibility of a motor fault!“Would a motor or motor connection fault cause the triac component on the pcb to trigger a error code?”
Re: Hotpoint Fault codes H20 and F01
The bit that puzzles me is that there is no visual evidence at all on the pcb of any discolouration or overheating – making me wonder if it is actually faulty.
Would a motor or motor connection fault cause the triac component on the pcb to trigger a error code?Re: Hotpoint Fault codes H20 and F01
Hi iadom, Thanks for your quick reply!
<> – Yes, this is why I was checking water supply and valves. But it also shows H20 when on a spin only (no water) cycle which I find puzzling ! On the latter tests it has sometimes gone immediately to display the F01 code.
<>
That’s probably me using the wrong terminology. By control module I meant the main pcb in the rear right hand base of the machine. (not the one behind the switches and timer panel). I think the one in the base is where the motor triac is situated. I checked all of the connections to that module and all seemed good.Is there any other test I can try to confirm the fault is with the (expensive!) module?
