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Re: Fisher & Paykel Phase 2 Spin Speed
Well, finally got around to doing some more checking, after I built a tes-rig with motor, RPS and pump mounted externally so I can check everything else against a known good system.
Here are the results for a GW601:
1. Clearing the HOT BOWL FLAG only works for an IW. With a GW, it can only be cleared by doing a full cycle COLD or COLD/WARM wash – no shortcuts with the ADVANCE button.
2. Spin cycle for a GENERAL wash is 300 then 700 if a HOT/WARM or HOT wash has been done and 300 then 1000 if a COLD or COLD/WARM wash is done (forgot to try WARM wash).
3. The pump DOES turn off about halfway through the final spin (even the F&P Tech didn’t know that). This may not be the case with a full wash load however as then the pump (if it is being sensed) would continue to detect pump load until nearly the end. My tests were done without any washing in the bowl.Many thanks to Penguin45 for all his advice and help during this saga.
Ray
Re: Schematic drawings for F&P controller boards desired
Hi Wizardoz.
There is a company in Melbourne who do nothing but repair F&P Modules and they seem to be very good at it. If Penguin45 okays the giving of company names on this forum, I will give it to you.
RayRe: Fisher & Paykel Phase 2 Spin Speed
Thanks Penguin45. The machines in question are MW051, GW601, GW701.
On the GW601, I just tried replacing the OOB switch/loom, soldered in a new lid switch, reset the HOT BOWL FLAG as per your instructions, and I am testing the spin with a dry bowl (machine has been stripped and cleaned, so no suds), and have blown through level sensor hose to check it is clear.
Still no change – turn on power, advance to SPIN, pressing START – pump turns on and bowl rocks, then low spin couple minutes, then medium spin a few minutes (pump turns off half way), then slowdown. No high spin.
I suppose the next thing is to start changing parts as follows 1. display module, 2. motor module, 3. RPS.
Thanks,
RayRe: Fisher Paykel Phase 2 size setting
Thanks Penguin45. I’ll give that a go. It is certainly not what I have in my manual:
“Press and hold the TEMPERATURE UP button then press the POWER button . . . . One of the following needs to be pushed to lock the size into memory.
* Press WASH TEMP UP button, the COLD LED is on for 5.5kg,
* Press WATER LEVEL UP button, the LOW WATER LED is on for 6.5kg/7.0kg,
* Press SPIN SPEED UP button, the SPIN HOLD LED is on for 7.5kg/8.0kg,
* Press POWER to set and exit.
This supposedly works on all levels of modules.
I will give your combo a go and report back.
Many thanks,
RayRe: Fisher&Paykel GW611 Washer error codes.
Found the answer – a trap for new players.
I had the module tested by a shop that repairs them, and it checked out ok.
I didn’t realise at the time that they tested it with their keyboard, so the error I was seeing was a “sizing” error.
The machine now works like a dream.
Thanks for the support along the way guys. Much appreciated.
RayRe: Fisher&Paykel GW611 Washer error codes.
This machine isn’t going to beat me that easily, but it’s getting close.
The module tests good on another machine, my machine now has a new stator and RPS. The solenoids measure 63 ohms each, stator is 31 ohms phase to phase, the thermistor is 10974 ohms at 21 degrees C, lid lock 67 ohmsthe module senses if either of the solenoids is disconnected on switch-on, yet it still always turns on with error 49 (at address 3) indicating a solenoid problem.
I’m completely out of ideas at the moment.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Many thanks
RayRe: Fisher&Paykel GW611 Washer error codes.
Well, I tried a new stator and sensor.
Now, when the start button is pressed, the solenoids pulse a few times with the rotor attempting to turn, then everything stops with the machine beeping and 0000 1010 displayed.
The diagnostic codes are now as follows:
0000 00000101
0001 00011111
0010 00000100
0011 10001000
0100 00000000
0101 10001111
0110 00000011
0111 00000001
1000 00000000
1001 10001111
1010 00000011
1011 00000000
1100 0000010X (X pulsing)
1101 00010001
1110 00010000
1111 00000000
My guess is that the motor is trying to turn but is not being sensed because while the sensor is ok, the input to the controller is not, having been probably destroyed in the original flashover, so the machine goes into fault mode.
Can anyone confirm this from the diags?
I am prepared to try replacing a few parts on the controller if necessary, so hopefully the fault can be localised to either the motor driver, or (more probably) the input from the motor sensor.
Thanks in anticipation
RayRe: Fisher&Paykel GW611 Washer error codes.
Many thanks – I will try to get a used stator (at least until I’m sure the controller is ok) – it still amazes me that the stator can have so many open circuits, with no apparent signs of overheating. The breaks look quite clean, no signs of frying or arcing. As an electronics engineer of over 40 years experience, I have never seen anything like this. I have had a close look at the windings on the open-circuit poles and they all have what looks like bluish-green deposits in the vicinity of the breaks. Could be corrosion, but why only in some places, when the rest of the windings are so clean (machine only 2 years old). Have you ever seen anything like this? I would rewind the affected poles, but I suspect that would only be a temporary fix.
p.s. I’m reluctant to involve F&P in the repair as when my daughter’s GW501 died, the authorised F&P man said (without even pulling the covers off) that the main board was blown and would need replacing along with the display board at a cost of $400. After she bought a new F&P, I pulled the covers off the old one and 30 minutes later after replacing a $3.50 MOSFET, had the machine going again. Sorry about the gripe, but this is just to explain why I am trying to fix this myself (not to do a serviceman out of a job).Re: Fisher&Paykel GW611 Washer error codes.
Thats what I did, but I know from experience that too much information is always better that not enough, so I’ve given the complete set of diagnostic readouts, plus other physical observations in the hope that someone can help.
The ideal solution of course would be if someone who has the codes could scan and post them, then a lot of the questions I see posted on this forum would be unnecessary.
Thanks Guys
