[hopper]

Thanks, Dave.

Checked carefully, Apparently not on this board unfortunately.

Access is difficult. Had to use a torch and mirror to see. Just lots of wires to and from the board.

Any other ideas?

Hopper

[hopper]

Re: Hotpoint UY46W bottom oven not working

Thanks Dave – just ordered a new stat.

Seems to clip on the back of the control switch. I notice a barb on one side and what appears to be a split barb on the other side.

Question – what’s the best method to release it? I presume I don’t have to remove the whole switch?

[hopper]

Re: Zanussi fx1465w pully removal

Thanks folks. Helpful advice.

Just got back to say that I managed to shift it, slight variation of method.

1 Warmed up the centre of the pulley and screw with the red hot wrench (TM) and applied a little Laco Rustbuster to the interface between the screw and pulley.

2. Left it for a while to allow the cooling process to draw in the lubricant.

3. Repeat.

4. Checked the pic on the Zanussi spares site. Clear enough to suggest a rh thread.

5. Wacked the head of the screw smartly with a hammer.

6. Earplugs. Makita impact screwdriver on reverse. Bingo.

Like the idea of using heat to soften the screwlock compound. I’ve used that on Austin Metro suspension swivel pin joints in the past, but I would have been a bit worried about damaging the plastic drum in this case. Until I saw the size of the back bearing.

The shaft does not want to knock through easily, so I’ve tapped it in about half an inch and applied more Laco to let it soak down before I go any further. Don’t know at this stage if it’s the shaft coming out of the bearing or the bearing coming out of the drum.

I’ll have to separate the 2 halves of the drum anyway to go any further.

I’ve always found that Laco to be good stuff, one of the best I’ve used.

Many thanks.

[hopper]

Re: John Lewis JLWM1200 pnc 91490446602 loose paddles &

Thanks for the info Chris.

Visited them on Thursday. Ran up the machine on max spin and was surprised to find it MUCH quieter. A couple of spins and I had to listen hard for the rumble.

As before the drum felt totally smooth when spun by hand. I dragged it out and tipped it to 45 degrees and got my daughter to spin the drum while I listened to the tub and motor bearings with a mechanic’s stethescope. All sounded ok. I think I’ve heared enough dodgy bearings in my lifetime to pick ’em up at an early stage.

No signs of leaks or other nasties. Then I remembered what you’d said, and began to connect. It’s often very humid at the inlaws and I know it was the last time we came. We have had a few days of dry mild weather, and the house felt much drier. I think it could be the belt absorbing moisture and squawking on the pulleys – like a car fan belt does in damp weather.

I killed the pump by removing a lead (quite noisy on this m/c) and ran the spin one more time – seems fine.
Time will tell…..

My only worry now is the loose paddles. One will accept a 0.5 mm feeler gauge under one end, the other loose one about 0.3 mm. Doesn’t seem much but it gives a significant rock. I’m concerned that it might damage the clothes or more seriously if one broke out during the cycle it could lead to clothes getting between the drums on spin leading to the Candy effect. (The outer drum’s the old bolted 2 part job by the way. That’s one thing I tried to check before ordering.)

Can anyone advise me if slightly loose paddles are normal with Electrolux / Zanussi?

[hopper]

Re: John Lewis JLWM1200 pnc 91490446602 loose paddles &

Yes, I agree, I’d be surprised if it was bearings.

But
1. It did not make the noise when the m/c was delivered and I installed it. I did not check the paddles.
2. It SOUNDS just like a bad case of tub bearings – not a rattle caused by something loose.
3. With an empty tub on full spin I would expect the paddles to pe pressed onto the inside of the drum by centrifugal force.
4. Spinning the drum by hand indicates no play in the bearings and the action is completely smooth.
5. It’s difficult to be definate, but the noise seems to be from below the drum – hence my suspicion of the motor, although the sound doesn’t seem quite right for that.

Last time we were down it was for a birthday meal and I could not easily get at the machine to investigate – we’re going again soon and I’ll drag the m/c out and have a closer look.

Considering the above, one thing which crossed my mind was could this be a motor control fault? If so I’d suspect that the motor might well get hot. I ran the machine through a full spin and it was still noisy at maximum spin. Am I right in assuming that the motor is being fed full wave ac at this point?

I know it’s down to JL and I can’t play with it – and with an extended 5 year warranty I don’t want to – but I’d like to have some idea of what’s going on before I phone them. Besides, my curiosity is aroused.

[hopper]

Re: Bearing water seal lubrication

My experience on a Hotpoint wm64:

Lubricant suggested by local repair shop / parts supplier – vaselene. Tried it, bearings lasted a couple of years or so.

Next time I tried ordinary LM grease – similar result.

Next time I had a think and decided to experiment. I noticed that the alloy bearing housing in the back of the plastic tub was pitted where the oil seal was.*

It looked as though water might have entered between the seal and the housing as well as /instead of via a knakered lip. Also had to grind out one of the outer races – corroded in solid.

I decided to fit the new seal into the housing with Fernox LSX – a plumber’s silicone sealant. It’s adhesive but engineered so the joint can be easily broken if required.

I cleaned up the housing with a fine abrasive and acetone and pressed in the new bearings. I think I set the bearings in LM grease. I seem to remember cleaning the grease off the end of the housing before applying a smear of LSX. It certainly makes the seal easier to fit.

I decided to try lubricating the seal lip with silicone grease – the thin type used for lubricating o ring seals not the high tack stuff used on drainage system joints. think I used some I got from RS Components.

I was a little worried because this a really a thick oil, not a grease in the oil plus lithium soap sense that the seal was probably designed for. I was concrerned that the increased drag might burn out the lip at 1200 rpm spin.

I cleaned up the brass ring on the shaft with brasso. It looked ok so I greased it and the seal with silicone grease and reassembled. That was several years ago. Your mileage may vary. If it breaks you get to keep both halves.

*That’s what it really is, folks – totally unsuitable for the application – sooner or later the detergent will take out all the lubricant and the seal will burn up. Our old Hoover going back 30 years or so had a proper seal – the bearings lasted the life of the machine – 17 years until the drum split. It’s the water ingress that ruins the bearings.

[Author]

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