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Ugh – messages crossed again.
In looking at the way the wires go into that rubber thing:
https://imgur.com/rxDkBC1
And then turning around that rubber thing to show where the connectors are:
https://imgur.com/y9gU6X5
Would you think that the white wire was the one that’s not needed???And having cut that rubber housing off, so I could get to the wires..voila….the original pump wires are now not long enough to get to the new position of the spade connectors. So, I’ll have to lengthen them. Obstacle after obstacle. By looking at the position of the wires, it appears that perhaps the white wire should no longer be used – that it’s the green wire and blue wire that should be attached to the spade connectors, and the white wire is just taped off. I think. LOL
The saga continues. Sadly.
My old pump actually has 3 spade connectors, as pictured here:
https://imgur.com/PfRloGt
Two where I would normally expect them, and one on the metal part of the pump.
The three connectors are connected using a blue wire, a green wire and a white wire.
They feed into a rubber protective thing here:
https://imgur.com/7nKS6ij
The inside of it looks like this:
https://imgur.com/336ERgk
My new pump only has two places for the spade connectors:
https://imgur.com/hKtsI1TUgh. I’m ready for new instructions (and sorry to keep bothering you).
I need to know what wires to hook up to my 2 new spade connectors, and what, if anything, to do with the third wire. Also, am I right in assuming that this rubber protective thing was meant to protect the electrical connections from dampness, etc.? If so, any kind of mods you suggest for it, like boring it out, running my existing wires through it, etc.??
As usual, thanks for your help. I’ve scoured the internet but have found no answers….:(Our messages crossed. Geesh, I never thought of that. I’m an idiot – it’s nice to have a man around the house….lol. Great idea! I’ll bring the pump to the. Hardware store tomorrow, get the two spade connectors and cut the old plug off. Brilliant. Thanks!!!
Ugh. I see this thing is called a ‘quick disconnect terminal’, and it comes in different gauges. My head hurts. Maybe I’ll just take this to the hardware store tomorrow, and see if they can fix me up with something. This is getting too complex for me.
My machine is from the US, so it’s running off of 110v. Glad to hear that I don’t have to research about which wire goes where. Is there some kind of pigtail thingy that will connect the original ‘dual’ spade connector that’s now fitted on the machine, with the 2 separate connectors on the new pump??
Back again….I just received my replacement pump from the US. I see the electrical change I’m going to have to make. While the original pump has the two spade connectors that connect the pump to the wiring in the machine, in one housing, the replacement pump has two separate housings, with one spade connector in each, marked L and N. Should I assume that the wiring from the machine is polarized, so that if I connect this backward, the pump will run backward? I understand that if I had bought this new, I would have received the instructions, as well, perhaps, as some kind of connector (hopefully) that would have the two single spade connector housings on one end, and the double housing on the other…maybe. Is there such a thing? And is it possible to hook this up backwards? Thanks again for your help.
Ah, thanks for that…..When my tub first starts to spin, there is a loud noise for a couple of seconds – like a loud hum. That’s the first inkling I had that something was amiss….the unusual noise that lasted for maybe a second or so. Hopefully the new pump will sort this issue out. Fingers crossed.
Yes, when I touch the leads together – which I do every time I use it, as it has a dial where you can adjust this, to make sure that the needle hits 0 – the needle swings all the way over to 0. It does the same thing when I touch the two little spade connectors on the pump. And you’re right – it does this on the pump, o matter what setting. I guess when I did it yesterday, I wasn’t making a good connection, and didn’t verify it. Is the reading supposed to be 0 at the spade connectors?
My ohmmeter is an ancient, analog one – it has 3 ohms settings – x10, x1k and x10k. On x 10 and 1k, the reading is 0. There is no reading on x10k. I’ve watched videos where guys are testing these pumps on the bench – I have no way to do that, and don’t think it would be safe for me to reinstall the machine and stick my head in to see if the drain works while the tub is spinning like mad….lol. I guess I’ll just keep my fingers crossed and hope that the new pump fixes the draining problem…:)
Thanks again for all your info. You’ve been really patient with me…..Last question…I promise! When testing the pump with my ohmmeter, it goes to 0. So this means that there’s an open and the pump is no good. Is that correct??
In the photo of my pump, there seems to be two ‘fans’, one on either end of the pump, when I remove the housing. The white fan is underwater – the yellowish fan is not. I’m kind of assuming that the voltage from the wiring is connected with the yellowish fan – that turns, and then turns the white fan which is pushing the water out. Do I have this correct? I suspect that there is no way for me to test this, to see if the fan spins? I’ve read (for other pumps) that the resistance across the electrical tabs is meant to be 5-10ohms or similar, and that if it’s infinity or 0, then the pump is no good. I understand what you mean about if this is an electrical problem then changing the pump won’t do anything, but you seem to also be saying that if it’s not spinning the water out, changing the pump won’t do anything….that I don’t understand. That is my problem – the water is not draining during the spin cycle. Is there any way of testing this pump when it’s off the machine??
Thanks again, Dave, for your response. And fortunately, my early type pump didn’t cause any leakage or fire, but I’m glad to replace it. I am still unsure as to how to determine that the pump is the actual cause of my problem – I assume so, as after spinning there is still about 3 gallons of water in the machine. I read that the pump activates during the spin cycle, and as no water is coming out during my spin cycle, I assume that this is my problem.
Have some compassion for me! I am a 68 year old female, trying to repair this machine (a couple of years ago, I put bearings into my house machine, a Hotpoint 95360). My neighbors think I’m nuts and should just buy new machines, but if these things can be fixed, I see no reason to toss them. Anyway, I read on one of the purchase sites for these new pumps that there is a bit of electrical modification that needs to be done. Ugh. But I hope I can handle it. Anyway, thanks again for all your info.
Kind regards
Jane
