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I have to say, I absolutely adore this machine. A stupid, girlie response, I know.
You are right, yesterday the spark just blew the circuit breaker to the wall outlet, and once reset, the electricity to that outlet was fine. (I am curious as to why the circuit breaker would blow, rather than the 13 amp fuse in the washer’s plug…..). This morning, with some trepidation, I decided to do a wash, and the machine is working properly as though I never abused it at all, yesterday. I’ve ordered the two valves specific to the machine, and will use my adventure yesterday as a learning experience so that, when the new valves come, I am as proficient as a plumber in putting them in.
Thank you again for all your assistance (and patience) with someone who probably shouldn’t be indulging in these adventures….:)Sorry, about all these little posts. Forget the post about the heat sink thing. It appears when I turned the electricity back on, I had two wires crossed that made the spark….it blew the circuit breaker. I haven’t gone back to see if the machine will turn on…I’ve had enough of an adventure for today ! LOL
electrofix wrote:https://anderson-retail.co.uk/washin…d-water-val03/
or you could just drill 2 holes to match the valve you have
site lists this valve as a val03 but not quite the same as does not have reversable mounting
Dave
And no, I wouldn’t have been able to drill 2 holes to match, and the plastic fitting on the double valve is 90 degrees out. I tried putting the metal piece from my original into that fitting, but then the entire fitting won’t go into the hole in the machine properly. This may all be a moot point now, if the machine itself is toast…:(
Well,I must admit I’m not having a good time with this. I put all back as original, still had the top off, plugged in the machine and something sparked. It look like it was the around this thing…..Ugh, I can’t upload the photo for some reason. It’s a metal cylinder that says RCL FS945 and on the bottom, says ‘heat sink’. I tried to see if the washer will turn on, but it won’t. Would this thing cause the washer to stop working? This is right next to the inlet valve connections, and I suppose it might have been possible for one of those connectors to spark. I checked the fuse in the plug for the machine, but it’s ok.
I’m an old, poor female, trying to keep this machine running….today has been a bit of an exercise in bad luck.And, sadly, while on the single hot valve, you are able to move the metal piece so that the valve can be screwed into the back of the machine, on the double cold valve, the attachment is plastic and part of the valve. It cannot be shifted, so can’t be screwed into the machine.
I may have to try all this again…..is there anywhere where the actual factory valves for this machine might be available? These universal ones will not work.
Well, just as an update. ‘Universal’ is not really universal. After disconnecting everything, much to my dismay, I found that the tube going into the machine to connect to the hoses, is about 3mm wide on the universal one, than on the original, on the hot water connection only. It was really difficult to struggle to get on. And due to that, the original clip did not open wide enough to clip on to the hose. Is there a trick to getting the clip to open wider than intended??? Or do I would need to have jubilee clips on hand, in order to do this. While it’s unlikely that anyone else will post on this with a machine of my vintage, I wanted to advise the difficulties I’ve run into. Strangely, the tube on the double cold replacement valve is exactly the right size….the issue is with the single hot water valve.
Thanks for the reply. I’ve ordered the valves, so my next ‘adventure’ will be installing them. It doesn’t look too difficult, Really appreciate the help (and parts) that I got here. Thanks!!
Ah, never mind about whether I have to buy the filters separately. I seem them in the valves in the shop photos.
I would like to know, however, whether I can use the good filter in the cold water side (where the filter was blocked with silt), and use (what’s left of) the broken filter in the hot water side (where the filter was completely clean) so that I can continue to use the machine while I wait for my order….???
Thanks for the info. Will go order both now. Do they come with the filters, or do you have to order them separately? And in the meantime, if I put the filter that was clean, on to the cold water inlet (where the filter was dirty) can I use the machine? In searching around the internet, some sites indicated that if the filters were clogged, they prevented the inlet valve from closing properly, thus allowing the water to continue to enter. Is this so?
Well, people seem to like a ‘solved’ post at the end of these threads. So..solved, but not without a great amount of questions, inconvenience, adventure, etc. Even up to the very last minute, when, having all connected and ready to bolt the pump back on to the machine, it appears that Whirlpool was kind enough not only to change the pump and electrical connection, but even the size of the bolts that would fit the new pump. The old bolts were too big – the rubber washer the old bolts used were useless. Of course, I don’t have the proper size bolts – the new pump fits snugly into the rubber housing that affixed to the machine, and is currently screwed it with wood screws. I’ll get bolts tomorrow – and test it then, as well. Frankly, I’m sick of looking at it now….lol
No, I can’t manage now. Now I have to learn about wire gauge. The wire coming out of the machine for the pump is fairly heavy – certainly heavier than what would be used for a lamp. Do you know what gauge wire I should use? I have to stop apologizing for all these questions….ugh
