[jerry111]

Thank you Kalibar and Electrofix for such informative answers.

I found the cleaning fluid on Bosch’s website. There are a few comments about using the fluid. Your machine has to be set to a program, to their credit Bosch did send me a copy of the procedure to do this, which is range specific. I read the graphics-only-language-free pdf, no mention was made of whether you had to put the machine back to canister only collection, or leave it in drain hose operation. Bosch support are looking into this, they’ve said they’ll contact their own technical support dept to see the best method for the cleaning program. I’ll let you know what they have to say on this!

It was all a lot easier with a vent pipe through the wall! Mind you the costs…..

Regards Jerry111

[jerry111]

Thanks for replying. I think the unit is just under 2 years old.

I have the user manual, there is no user cleaning method mentioned in the manual. It does mention that a hourglass symbol appears on the display when the machine self cleans. None of us have noticed this on the display.

When we first had it, there was very little water that gathered in the container during drying. The container is now sometimes full. The drain hose goes to a 40mm waste trap. The height of which is 20 inch above floor level. I don’t think the drain is blocked, but I will check.

The dryer is used every day, for 2 hours or more. I feel that something is changing inside and the performance is dropping.

If the the water in the container is used for cleaning the condensor/evaporator, could it be that instead of the water being drained as it was at first, the unit is retaining water to use for a self clean function? Just a thought. I’ve not seen the self clean symbol but that doesn’t mean it’s not appeared.

The machine in the YouTube video was badly fluff clogged. Inside the condensor evaporator box, the fins were all choked with fluff.

We do all what was written in the user mauser.I don’t think there is anything else from a user point of view to do.

From a service engineer standpoint, is internal cleaning covered by the Bosch warranty?

I work as a service engineer myself on Tv/Audio equipment and cleaning such as used to be required on VCR’S etc was very much a grey area for warranty claims.

Regards, Jerry111

[jerry111]

Thanks for that Dave. I’ll have a good look round as you have kindly suggested. Its a expensive part to order then get it wrong.
Regards, Jerry 111

[jerry111]

Thanks Dave,

There’s a real ‘mains’ hum type noise that seems to come from the floor of the unit. I’m not asking for a Haynes Manual type explanation, but is the motor accessible, possibly from underneath?

Regards, Jerry.

[jerry111]

Thanks for the reply, I’ve had a look with my neighbour, the front part of the door seal is held on with a ring that fastens on the lower part of the ‘porthole’.
I think we should be able to remove it and change the hose. So no need to remove the seal completely, just as you have advised.

Many thanks for the help. Regards, SJM.

[jerry111]

Thanks for the reply and link. It seems as the fitting is something of a ‘one-off’ you have to use the original capacitor. Or fit a non-standard replacement and use a home made fitting… (bodge..?)

Regards, SJM

[jerry111]

Re: AEG Electrolux T35850. No heating

Hello all,

Managed to find the service manual on the internet which made things easier. In the test mode the drum rotated and I was able to turn on both heating elements. So began to think more control, or the main pcb 🙁

Before going down that route, I checked the resistance of the NTC on the front chassis. This measured about 800-1000 ohms greater than the spec in the manual. After ordering a replacement and checking the two side by side, the new NTC was around 1000 ohms lower than the old one.

After fitting and 3 test runs, the dryer is back to normal. 🙂

Regards, SJM

[jerry111]

Re: AEG Electrolux T35850. No heating

Re my original post..

I’ve been able to read the error codes from the machine. They are as follows: Start/Pause LED flashes:6x amber-green, then 2x red.

During normal operation all LED’s operate as normal.

If I start the machine empty, it runs cool for around 2mins, then turns off. I suspect that this may be normal.

Both the temp stats under the heater elements measure OK.

Thanks, jerry111.

[jerry111]

Re: Hotpoint WMA 30 Door switch

Hi

I took the door off the machine today, and you were quite correct in saying that the spring had broken – it had!

The door latch was removed, but only after releasing a cable to it that had been trapped in the chassis. How it had not cut through I don’t know!
The solenoid assembly had half seized up. I’ve cleaned it of all the goo on the slide mech, and put a tiny amount of WD40 onto the plastic guides only. After reassembly it worked first go. I’ll get a new latch and spring on order pronto.

When I took the door off I noticed two bad scrape marks on the glass bowl. It looks as if the front edge of the drum has been chafing on the glass. Is this a result of overloading, or is there a problem with the drum suspension as well?

I’ve attached a picture of the marks on the bowl.

Thanks again for the advice, you were spot-on.

Regards, Jerry111.

[jerry111]

Re: Hotpoint WMA 30 Door switch

Thanks for the advice and the part number for the spring. I’ll tell her to go a little easy with the door for now.

The sprung claw on the door does seem to have a positive feel to it, so I think the spring is probably OK. The door hinge does appear to be worn as the claw now no longer lines up with the latch socket – and the door has to lifted slightly for it to close. I’ll take the door off tomorrow and have a closer look.

As the door latch sells for around £10.00 or less, it’d be false economy not to change it.

Cheers, 😉

[jerry111]

Re: AEG Electrolux T35850. Vibration when running

Hi all,

Thanks for your advice Dave. Finally got a chance to look at the unit today.
What’s causing the noise are the two roller tyres that support the front edge of the drum. As you look at the rear of the unit, it’s the one that’s on the left (nearest the motor) that was making the most noise. I’ve swopped them over and the noise is much reduced. I know that this is just a temporary measure and I’d better replace the pair of them.

They are 69mm Dia by 12 thick. I’m not sure if e-spares or Ransoms stock them as I’m not sure what the correct trade name is!

Does anyone know of a stockist?

Regards, JM.

[jerry111]

Re: AEG Electrolux T3580. Vibration when running

Hi Dave,
Thanks for the advice, will post again when I’ve found found out what’s gone wrong.

Regards, JM.

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