Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Cancel all this – I’ve just realised that the main water feed is off, so I can’t confirm till it comes back on!
Just reminded myself that 3 years ago I did a repair on the control module, as posted here [h=2]Bosch Exxcel Dishwasher not advancing beyond wash and heater not working[/h] As far as I can tell this time it hasn’t advanced at all. Could it be a module problem again?
No I didn’t, the other connections looked bright, and it didn’t occur to me. Well, if it goes at least I know what to do!
John
Job done! Removing the control module wasn’t quite as shown on the video, but I managed it and accessed the PCB. The relay connection had evidently eventually arced, judging by the smoke and spatter.
Thank you for the fuse wire tip, as I couldn’t get the pad to take properly, so I bridged to another connection on the same pad. I don’t know how long it will last, but it works for now and I have saved £125 for a new module.
Thanks for your guidance.
John
Thank you for that, both of you. I have found a video indicating the dodgy area of the PCB (and another showing how to remove the module). I’ll investigate and report back. I expect the comment about adding 15A fuse wire will become clear when I have looked at it.
John
Hi,
A month on and I thought I would provide an update. After researching various replacement machines, none quite we wanted, I thought I would give the fridge one last chance. I defrosted again, but this time by powering off completely, rather than by setting to the “def” or “off” position, which leaves the circuitry active and the interior light on (a source of heat in the chiller). Nor did I provide any heat by bowls of hot water.
Once defrosted I left it for a while. This procedure seems to have achieved the object I asked about above and allowed the refrigerant and compressor to “reset” themselves. Result: on switching on, the fridge went down to temperature after a few hours and now happily stays at 4 deg C.
The fridge is now into its second half-century and (fingers crossed!) I hope it will see me out!
Thanks you for your interest
John
Sorry, I didn’t spot your reply before. Thanks for the suggestion. It’s not a possibility I had considered. The fridge part is approx. 83 cm high, which is the same as the under-the-counter models I have been looking at, with the addition of the extra freezer if we needed it.
Ice-King is not a brand I know. I cannot find specified anywhere the construction of the back, e.g. should be metal, and it does not appear in the Which? list.
John
Hi
Thanks for your quick response. No, the ME56 is/was a tallish free-standing fridge only (with ice-cream compartment) 117cm high. It squeezes between a washing machine and a dishwasher (just!) and an adjacent door, so ideally I would be looking for 53cm or less.
Obviously it’s not worth spending money on the m/c, I just wondered if there was a procedure that would (say) allow the oil to return, if that was the problem. I will pull it out to have a hoover round the back, in case it makes any difference.
John
Job done, thanks for the guidance. I found a selection of YouTube videos that covered my actual machine. We didn’t need to unstack the machines. The brushes were reduce to 10mm, so ready for a change. Two zip ties were needed to secure the cable loom, but the motor cover just hooks in place.
In addition to brushes I have also ordered a replacement belt, in case it turns out to have broken or be on its last legs. It occurs to me to wonder if the increased tension from a new unstretched belt could bring on early failure in the very old bearings.
Ignore my query about sourcing the brushes, I’ve ordered directly from Bosch. Total cost £30.16 (carriage free).
Thanks for that encouraging response. By illuminating the door obliquely it is likely that the number is WFF2000GB/01, as you suggest. Having looked at some videos, I am beginning to think I may be able to do the job myself with the help of my son. It is worth having a go in the hope that brushes are the answer. I imagine I would hear bearing noise when turning the drum. Do worn or u/s brushes damage the commutator?
Is the motor accessible through the rear panel on this model? I notice that some require side access and even through the bottom. Although suggested somewhere that one can change the brushes with the motor in situ, I imagine it is easier with it out on a bench.
I take your point about sourcing genuine Bosch 154740 brushes at a genuine price. I assume that if I buy from the shop on this site I can be assured they are genuine, although they don’t seem to show part numbers.Thank you. Is it worthwhile to make a substantial investment to keep a 22-year-old machine that cost £499 alive? Substantial in the sense that, although the brushes may be a modest cost (but best to get the best), the professional help needed to get to the back of the machine even to check the data plate to order the right ones may start to approach the cost of a new machine, see penultimate para above. How much life on-going might I expect from the machine?
Re: Cannon Camberley 10101G Lid Springs
Thank you for the picture. As you say, not a great help with the springs themselves, but at least showing the components around them.
Sorry to hear about the availability situation, Spares4appliances show them as in stock, but that may be their default position until they have actually tried to source them.
Sounds like a new cooker may be on the cards, if I can find one that will fit the slot. Apart from the hinge problem, which threatens to catch you if you’re not careful, the clock misbehaves from time to time. I’m not sure how long we have had it.
