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kwatt wrote:No.
The phial will go into a sleeve or holder on the rear wall close the the evaporator that may be buried in the insulation and not visible. It is important it goes to the correct position or the temperature will not be sensed correctly and you can get over-freezing or not cooling correctly if it’s incorrectly positioned.
Even on spares diagrams that position will not be shown, you should be able to site it correctly from removing the old one or, working it out onsite.
K.
as i can not see it and it goes though a closed wall, i mean where do i start looking?
kwatt wrote:The thermostat has a phial on it, if that gets damaged or kinked in any way, the thermostat is rendered utterly useless.
Explained here:
K.
Then i dont know where the phili attaches to!
kwatt wrote:Yes, you will need to track where it was and put the new one back there without kinking or breaking it.
K.
Surly most under the counter domestic fridges will be near all same will they dont. I think from that link you provided it attaches to the compressor (cant see link at the moment)
kwatt wrote:It goes to where the old one was.
K.
as from the photo; it goes into the fridge housing shell somewhere
kwatt wrote:No.
The thermostat that has had the phial cut is.
K.
the one I bough those has the full coil on it. Where dose the end of the pheli fit on to?
kwatt wrote:The second one is tiny but if that’s been cut then it’d be rendered useless, you cannot damage that in any way.
K.
so you are saying the fridge is gone?
kwatt wrote:If it was, the thermostat would never have worked.
K.
i’ll have to weight till day light to take a photo of it all, to show you what i mean
kwatt wrote:The thermostat has a phial on it, if that gets damaged or kinked in any way, the thermostat is rendered utterly useless.
Explained here:
K.
but the pipe/ phial is broken on the fridge
I recived the part thanks. But am having problem fitting it now. there is a very thin wire that has snapped on my fridge which i think the termo is supposed to attach to
electrofix wrote: most of these motors are 240v but not all but its a very small amount
the output shaft changes from unit to unit
Dave
I do not remember what the voltage was when i tested the plug onto the motor, but i think some thing like 40V and defo not 240V
electrofix wrote: if the door is twisted it wont seal properly
you could warm the seal to see if it stretches
Dave
Is it possible I twisted the door when cutting it?
What do you recomend I warm the seal up with; presuming it needs warming up while it is in place and not out of the doorkwatt wrote:That looks to be a standard one, like this:
https://store.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/turntable-motor-56-rpm-d-shaft-mw63.html
K.
Thanks! but it dose not state what volatage it is
What is the link you provided above about cleaning out the filter every 6 months mean?electrofix wrote:As a professional we go to the gen stat and only if the supplier says there is an alternative do we think about it
if we get the gen then we have a 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} chance it will be ok. With anything else the percentages drop
Dave
So that company E Spares is where you buy your stuff from?
So you are 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain its the thermostat right? Before I buy itI spent a lot of time on this fridge cutting the door panel out and fitting a plastic glass one over it you see
