[kandlbarrett]

Re: Indesit C239 NFUK

Danfoss with many numbers either stamped into the casing or on a yellow sticker.

Numbers stamped into the casing are:-

YE45311 (on the top)

LY-7F-6730 (on the side)
AL462A2208 (stamped immediately below LY-7F-6730 listed above)

Numbers on the yellow sticker:-
NLY7F
6730
105G

Which number identifies the exact model number is not indicated.

Thank you for your initial interest.

I have put a 240V supply direct onto the connectors that the capacitor uses (with the capacitor also left in place) assuming that this would put 240V accross the motor and bypass all other controls (faults.) The only thing this does is to cause the motor to “humm.”
Putting the meter accross the capacitor and and turning the freezer on at the mains does not show any voltage across here even when keeping the meter on it for 4 or 5 mins. I would expect to see a voltage appear when the controlling circuit switched the motor on but without a diagram what is between the electronics and the motor? I think you are suggesting that there is a relay.

Note: I have seen the master PCB (second hand) on ebay but, with all indicator lights, thermostats appearing to work do you think I can rule that out or at £10 should I grab the apparent bargain even though it is secdond hand.

[kandlbarrett]

Re: Kenwood KDW243A Dishwasher not programming

I know this is a very old post but these machines are still on the market.

I have one about 3 years old and thanks to this forum, an occassional “tip it on it side” to drain overspill (E4 error code), a new start/run capacitor, not relying on the multi tablets for salt but adding salt to the dispenser and frequent removal of debris from the spray arm noozles (these seem to suffer badly from this and are a real pain to clear [or are we using it as a food disposal unit instead of a dishwasher – joke]) it is actually still cleaning well! Mmm, that’s quite a list isn’t it.

Anyway for anyone looking this is very simple to fix.

What happens is that occassionally the door doesn’t quite close properly but the plastic catch on the top and inside the door panel flicks into the closed position even though the door is slightly open. (This catch is meant to hold the door firmly closed.)

NOTE: reclosing the door doesn’t reset the catch but it might break it if you force the door closed. Nor will looking closly to see if the door is slightly open tell you much – the difference between the catch working properly or not is negligible; only about 3 or 4 mm in the final (closed) position of the door.

With the catch in this closed position the programme buttons are disabled by the inbuilt programming and protection circuitary.

The solution is to remove the catch mechanism from the door and, using a screwdriver lever the small plastic catch back into the correct “open” position. It is an “over centre” device held in place by a spring and whilst quite stiff it will flick back to the right position.

It’s a while since I had the problem and whilst I removed mine to fix it I’m not sure if you do need to remove the catch (only two screws) or if it can be done in situ.
NOTE: Just double checked you need to remove the cover panel on the top of the door and also remove the catch mechanism to effect this repair.

NOTE2: This section of the message removed by kandlbarrett, yes the reply below is wise advice! 😳

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