Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
OK, I’m going to have to call time on this. It’s going to the dump haha!
I either get the F10 with the correct one-shot thermostat or no errors with no heat. I’ve had the board off and cleaned it out along with all the connectors etc., but to no avail.
Any last-ditch attempts I can make before I load up the car?
Yes, I used wet clothes just in case.
As I understand it, the white ‘one shot’ thermostat has to be an open circuit. So it follows that the F10 error is what I am trying to fix. I found a service manual for a similar model and it states the following for F10:
F10 Open circuit in the heater. Common wiring.
• Check the wiring between the cycling stat and the
module;
• Check wiring between module connector J4 and the
heater;
• Test heater elements.
Note:- Frequent cycling stat operation can cause F10,
check filter and condenser for blockages. The module
checks and waits 3 times before displaying F10.I have continuity on all the wiring of the loom on the heating unit (when it is unplugged) but can I check the outputs on the pins of the J4 connector? Is there a safe and proper way to do this?
Yes! The blue on the left is reading 230v and the one on the right (centre wire) is reading zero. So final check before I do it…. join the two wires…. I’ll have no clock/controller but the basic operations should work?
We never use the timer, clock or auto functions so is it safe to continue to use in this modified state?
There are three wires going into the board. Here are the voltages, tesed on a live circuit, earthing out to the body of the cooker. I take it this is normal?
