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twicknix wrote:
Gosh! This takes me back a while, you know Covid happened since then! I think I was stumped as much as you are so I simply mentioned on type of pans being used and left it there. Not heard anything since so maybe she took my advice?
Thanks for getting back – right I’ll maybe take some of my pans which are heavy stainless steel and give them a go. Worth a try.
don wrote:No model of that with NFC at the end so taking that off I get 43012774 on all four versions, in stock at Connect.
Don
Thanks for your help Don.
Markelectrofix wrote:
have you looked in the owners manual as would need serial no to look it up
I’ve asked the client who says there is a manual and she will dig it out. Hopefully it will have a serial number.
Kentish wrote:
To be frank, at 24/yrs old Imwould consider a repair a waste of money, as so much will be obsolete for it anyway.Yes, agreed. When I got called out the client had already bought springs and cables from Zanussi – wrong parts – wrong advice.
electrofix wrote:looks like hinges and springs are complete units
take the kick strip off and the door outer and see how things look from there
Dave
Thanks for the part number Dave. I could find no way of removing the kick strip – no screws visible, so it has to pop off, but could get no movement when prying various locations. I read somewhere that the outer door panel has to come off first so will re-visit and give that a go.
kwatt wrote:Resent to mail@markflint.net
K.
The machine give error E15 (Ef) (15 sequences of flashing lights) which corresponds to
At the end of a water load, the Pressostat correctly trips to the “full tank” contact, but the Liters Counter has counted less than 20
impulses (for 3 times).”I’m finding this hard to accept because it only tries to fill for 20 seconds before going back into drain cycle. Is it possible to encounter a pressure stat in which the diaphragm (if they even have diaphragms) weakens and trips early, ie, is over sensitive? I think I’m going to have to replace the water counter and the pressure sensor next time I visit because I’m tired of pulling that machine out from behind the kick boards lol.
kwatt wrote:Resent to mail@markflint.net
K.
Much appreciated – thank you.
kwatt wrote:I emailed you something that may help.
K.
Hi, I checked my logs and see there was an email deleted by my spam software and I can no longer access it. Would you please send it to me again? Many thanks, Mark
kwatt wrote:You’ll need the first part of the serial number to get anything on it as that model isn’t being recognised on their system.
K.
Sn: 32900435 1504 0141
matrixresonator wrote:I use this one, does everything I need:
UT533 Insulation Multimeter – UNI-T Meters | Test & Measurement Tools and Solutions (uni-trend.com)
Looks good, nice to have DMM functions too.
Kentish wrote:
Before you do, I would get a decent DMM with or without insualtion testing (up to 1000v) or buy a stand alone insulation tester.
Thanks for the advice, I’m planning on getting a stand alone megga.
MarkKentish wrote:
i never trust anything a customer fits, as most likely it’s the cheapest they can find.Yes, a genuine part will now be fitted.
Thanks, MarkLawrence wrote:Its the element going down to earth
Thanks Lawrence. It might be time to buy a megga, my DMM is not up to some of these tasks.
Markelectrofix wrote:was it gen or pattern
gen element part no A094693
Thanks Dave, I appreciate the part number.
Thinking about this, the sensor seems to be behaving as expected even though its resistance slope is quite steep, and getting a datasheet for the sensor could take hours of digging. So I think it’s likely the sensor is OK and the PCB thermostat is the problem. These are £100 from Hotpoint and come unprogrammed and I have not tools or experience in programming such a board. Add to this that the fridge is 10 years old. Its days are over.
