[Mark Flint]

electrofix wrote: 1 if it was running all the time it would be very very cold in there

2 the temp sensor will be buried in the insulation i would guess as the lamp would interfere with the sensor if it was that close

if its not freezing sounds more like a system fault or its just that its hot weather and it has to work harder

Dave

I’m still trying to figure this out. I took the sensor of the thermostat board and metered it as 12.5 kohms at room temperature. After just 10-15 mins of the fridge being on – had been at room temperature inside for a day – the resistance on the sensor was up to 75 kohm. Then 10 mins later (fridge off) it had dropped to 30 koms. Does this seem to be an unusual range? I would have expected perhaps 30 kohms at 4 degrees.

Anyway, the sensor is buried but I was thinking I could perhaps fix on to the inside wall of the fridge and wire through the thermostat housing on to the PCB. Does this seem like a reasonable idea. The next question would be sourcing a suitable generic sensor as I can’t find a specific one for this model.

Thanks,
Mark

[Mark Flint]

electrofix wrote: as Kentish says its most likley the element

Dave

The client replaced the element him self before calling me out. How often would a new element be faulty I wonder – I suppose it could happen.

Thanks

[Mark Flint]

Kentish wrote:Have you metered or meggered the elements?
Seen so many ovens of all makes tripping when hot, especially with air fryers being so common

The client replaced the element him self. Both the new one and the old one meter at 22 ohms.

Thanks

[Mark Flint]

kwatt wrote:Serial number please?

K.

Serial number 7321 158184.

Thanks

[Mark Flint]

Thank you. I’ve just researched mullion heaters and yoder loops.

[Mark Flint]

I asked chatgpt if this model of refrigerator used non serviceable sensors. The reply was:

The Hotpoint HS2322L refrigerator does use non-serviceable temperature sensors that are embedded within the insulation. This design choice aligns with the general industry trend during the early 2000s to improve energy efficiency and reliability by integrating sensors into the appliance in a way that reduces the need for maintenance.

[Mark Flint]

electrofix wrote: 1 if it was running all the time it would be very very cold in there

Apologies I should have given more info. It is actually freezing food Dave.
Sensor buried in the insulation… did they do that 10 years ago? (This fridge is at least 10 years old)
Is there any locations on the internet where I can find schematics for this, and other machines?
Thanks, Mark

[Mark Flint]

Kentish wrote:
Without sounding unpleasant, we can tell youre new to the game:)
We all were at some point.
Are you self employed or for a company, and what is your background?
Live testing especially with water isn’t something most/many would do.
Something I always told anyone I was training, “always be sure you can get out what you put into a machine”…ie, make sure it drains first before you put water into it:)
Feel free to ask away

So far the worst flood was when I replaced a dishwasher drain pump and forgot to hook up the drain hose. What came in certainly came out again haha.

I’m just working for myself now and appreciate the freedom to choose my hours and days. Most of my career has been sat at a desk but I’ve always been handy and enjoy learning practical stuff!

Cheers,
Mark

[Mark Flint]

Hollytree_Technical wrote:Here are a couple of pointers / background principles for you, they should apply to almost any fridge freezer with a mains water fed automatic icemaker and water dispenser.

Jem, many thanks, that’s great info to help with troubleshooting. Much appreciated!
I’ll be back at the machine early next week.
Cheers,
Mark

[Mark Flint]

Kentish wrote:
There is no harm in declining a job if it’s something you haven’t done before. After 42 years, whilst there isn’t anything I havent done now, I don’t bother with American fridge freezers.

Thanks for you input. I’ve only been in this line of work for 8 months so definitely still learning.

[Mark Flint]

Kentish wrote:Why should there be water flow when you press the ice button?

Without make and model numbers, youre not going to get much input

Hi, the machine is a Samsung RS53K4400SA (s/n 04YZ4EBJ200739P). As seen in the valve picture there looks to be one input (top, brass nut) and two outputs (thicker transparent pipe, and thinner white pipe). I was thinking that one output was to the water dispenser and the other to the ice maker but this is the first time I’ve worked on a fridge water/ice maker issue.

With the valve over a bucket and electrics still connected, dispenser pressed, one of the output pipes has good water flow but the other has no water flow.

Should both ‘output pipes’ see water flowing when the water dispenser is pressed?

Thanks, Mark

[Mark Flint]

kaibart wrote:00631200 is the only one used from 2015 before that there was a 997 pump used aswell only 2 different drain pumps where used only that 31200 pump on all new models haven’t changed one in a long while, but I would fit genuine

Yes, I’m using genuine for now anyway.

[Mark Flint]

Dave,

The bosch website says 00631200 is the genuine part number for most dishwashers from 2015 onwards. (Q&A section, bottom of page.)
(https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/store/top-selling-spare-parts/00631200.)
1208028 is not found on their site.

It would be nice to know if the compatible pump is reliable and in particular, has the same power rating.

Regards,
Mark

[Mark Flint]

[Mark Flint]

Kentish wrote:I have never known a dishwasher allow full flow of water, they always restrict it. Well that’s the ones I have seen in 42 yrs anyway.

I didn’t know this. Thank you!

[Author]

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