[mark_r]

OK will do and thanks for the advice….

mark

[mark_r]

Hi Dave,
Thanks for the reply – the strange thing is we have had this machine for a few years and have used I-DOS on the mixed load setting pretty much all the time with no issue. It is only this program ithat seams to have the issue and weirdly the setting for fabric conditioner seams to work fine.

is there a way to “factory reset” the machine? Had a look online but can’t seam to find instructions for 5ge touch control model.

thanks again

mark

[mark_r]

OK so I ordered the 170C cut off stat, turned up today so I took oven out and opened the back and it turns out the cut off stat in there is 140C ☹️

would appear to be this one https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/818731476-smeg-140c-safety-thermostathttps://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/818731476-smeg-140c-safety-thermostat

This also states it is compatible with this oven.

Stupid question and I expect I know the answer but would it be safe to replace with the 170C one? I am assuming not…..

Mark

[mark_r]

Thanks Dave – went ahead and ordered one hopefully will save me the hassle of taking it out and apart more than once……fingers crossed

mark

[mark_r]

Thanks Dave much appreciated. Been looking on the parts section and the part with SKU 818731478 would seam to be the one I need – it doesn’t specify top or bottom ovens are they both the same?

Appreciate the help.

mark

[mark_r]

kwatt wrote:It won’t stop it “working”.

Water will condense in there, form an ice ball and push the liner out, the fridge will not maintain temperatures correctly etc, etc.

Which is probably why it was gotten rid of.

K.

Thanks for that K – much appreciated – back it goes.

Regards

mark

[mark_r]

kwatt wrote:If the inner liner is split or loose as I think your mean, it’s scrap I’m afraid.

You can, theoretically repair it but it’s a huge hassle and a lot of work to do so.

K.

Thanks K – the lining is not ripped – just unstuck from the back in about a 4cm section in the top right at the back. As I said when the fridge is on it appears to get seucked back against the soldi rear but when off/at room temperature it is slightly unstuck and you can push it back with your finger. Will this just get worse and the fridge stop working?

Regards

mark

[mark_r]

Re: Problem with Main Oven on SMEG D010PSS

Hi,
just to complete the thread – I ordered a replacement door-hinge operated micro switch and replaced it this morning. Everything is working as it should now.

Appreciate all the assistance and can thoroughly recommend the spares service offered by UK Whitegoods.

Regards

Mark

[mark_r]

Re: Problem with Main Oven on SMEG D010PSS

Dave,
first of all great job retrieving my image from a badly encoded post 🙂 Your diagram and video helps greatly and this is exactly what happens to the terminals at the rear – however with the front set of terminals Red remains permanently connected to Blue irrespective of the whether the micro switch is open or closed – so reckon that must be it. As you suggest it looks like this is two parallel switches in one unit.

New switch will be ordered this evening for UK Whitegoods and hopefully normal service will be resumed…..

Thanks once again fro the help and advice it is very much appreciated.

Regards

Mark

[mark_r]

Re: Problem with Main Oven on SMEG D010PSS

Dave, thanks again for your advice. I checked the rear of the timer and there is definitely only one relay and it appears to work as if it is “off” neither the selector switch nor the thermostat work.

That got me thinking though – there is another relay that I know cuts out the elements connected to the main oven door hinge. I think that it cuts out the elements when the door is open. I took off the side panel to reveal the switch, which has side terminals and four top terminals. A brown cable is connected to the rear side terminal (RST) and a white cable connected to the front side terminal (FST), On the top a brown cable is connected to the rear left terminal (RLT), two red cables connected to the right rear terminal (RRT), a white cable connected to the front left terminal (FLT) and nothing connected to the front right terminal (FRT).

I tested the switch with my multi-meter for connectivity and found the following

oven door open (switch in position 1)
RST is connected to RRT
FST is connected to FRT

oven door closed (switch in position 2)
RST is now connected to RLT
FST is still connected to FRT

Which is very weird as both white cables appear to be isolated in either door position. So I took a punt and figured maybe whne the door is closed FST should be connected to FLT (similar to the back connections) – so I pulled the white cable in FLT, connected it to FRT. Turned the power back on, expecting something to blow but the oven worked fine – the began heating, the thermostat light came on as normal and went off at the desired temperature.

So I am thinking it is this door switch that is the problem – my only concern is that what I have done may be masking a bigger problem. Does anyone know how this switch is supposed to work? It seams strange that the white cables would be connected to it – but totally isolated (in it’s current state) -but I am no expert.

This is the switch

And I have labelled the cable I moved as 1 and the terminal I moved it to as 2.

I think that the front connection should move in line with the rear one but not sure – does anyone know?

Regards

Mark

[mark_r]

Re: Problem with Main Oven on SMEG D010PSS

Hi Dave thanks for the reply. I did check the elements with my multimeter but I removed all connections before doing so. I seam to escalate that the bottom, fan and centre top elects all measured about 20-30 ohms resistance and the outside top element was about 60-70.. What is the idea behind leaving one of the terminals connected while I do the measure?

Also Imwill double check but neither the convection or traditional settings (non fan) appear to be working.

Mark

[mark_r]

Re: Problem with Main Oven on SMEG D010PSS

OK so weird update. If I disconnect all of the connections to the top grill element (so both inner and outer element connections plus the earth), then turn the power back on, when the selector switch is in the grill position the thermostat light illuminates as it should to try and heat the grill. Clearly it can’t because there are no terminals connected but at least it appears to be trying. Once everything is connected back up it is back to the old behavior and no other setting works even when the top element is disconnected….

This is driving me nuts…

Mark

[mark_r]

Re: Problem with Main Oven on SMEG D010PSS

Hmm – yes I thought of that. However the oven does not function at all if the clock is not set (i.e. the selector switch does not work/illuminate) and when I set it I hear they relay “click” at the back of the clock and then the selector switch functions. I recall that if the timer is set for delayed cooking then I think there is only a single relay and this appears to be working 🙁

Thanks

Mark

[mark_r]

Re: Smeg Fab32 Fridge Not Working

Hi,
managed to spend some time this morning further debugging the issue. So it would appear that

1) Both Fridge and freezer appear to be not functioning (with freezer on light off even though switch is in on position)
2) If I turn of “Fast freeze” the freezer does appear to get cooler according to the temperature gauge at the top of the unit.

What confuses me a little is why a thermostat fault would behave like this – surely a thermostat fault would affect either the freezer or the fridge not both? The freezer has a separate min/max to the fridge so surely they are not linked?

If they are linked and it is a thermostat fault anyone have any idea roughly how much this would cost to fix so I can get an idea of whether to just go buy a new fridge freezer?

Thanks

Mark

[mark_r]

Re: Smeg Fab32 Fridge Not Working

Hi Bob thanks very much for the reply. I suspect that the fridge/freezer don’t work when I push the fast freeze button, just that the fast freeze light comes one – the main green freezer light remains off.

Could a failty thermostat cause the fridge to malfunction and the freezer light to go off? The fridge appears to be warmer than usual and does not cool down even when I turn it right up.

Would any of the things you suggest cause the freezer light to go off even when it is switched on? From the manual it would appear that the light indicates freezer operation and should (and I think always has) been on permanently.

Thanks again

Mark

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