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An update. It keeps tripping even though I have moved the fan-on sensors. Thanks [USER=”62642″]jdp_uk[/USER] , I am going to try and replace the overheat sensor as you recommend.
Something I was wondering was if the fan can be made to come on when either oven is on, rather than coming on only when the other sensors closer to the knobs trip? I was wondering if it might be easy to find a spare terminal on both the oven rotator switches that I could send to the fan (in parallel) with those sensors.
I would like to have a look at the rotator switch. Can someone tell me in general how to remove or lift or slide back the stove top? I can’t tell if I need to unbolt something on the inside to get the cooking area to lift up. There are no screws on the top that are visible.
I fixed it.
I traced every single wire in the unit. I discovered the two additional heat sensors, a total of 3.
There is a normally-closed cut-out sensor on the top-back-lefthand part of the oven, outside the oven, which when the temperature is above 145C clicks open and turns off the main oven and clock. Oddly, this doesn’t affect the right-hand oven, I did not find a second cut-off sensor.
Secondly, there are 2 normally-open sensors which when the temperature is above 45C clicks closed and turns on a squirll fan that circulates air over the top of the oven and down over the front. These 2 sensors are situated, one each on the thermostat knob, behind the front panel of the unit.
When the right-hand oven is on, the normally-open sensor near the right hand oven clicks closed turning on the circulator fan.
When the left-hand oven is on, the circulator fan doesn’t go on. I pulled this sensor out and tested it by heating it up slowly in a frying pan and watching the temperature using an IR digital thermostat. It clicks on at almost exactly 45C.
The sensor on the left oven is attached to the base of the thermostat knob sandwiched between the oven selector and the thermostat and is directly over an air opening over the door. It simply seems like the oven heat in this area doesn’t go above 45C before the cut-out temperate pops off. What I ended up doing was simply move this sensor and using a C-shaped bent piece of metal, I clipped it to the metal plate that holds the clock. The metal plate is rivited to the top of the oven, so it gets hot by conduction. Now, when the oven comes up to temparature, the internal circulator fan comes on and the cut-off temperature is never reached. The circulator stays on quite a long time after the oven is off, probably way longer than it needs to, but the problem seems to be solved!
Incidentally, I also tested the cut-out sensor in a frying pan and it clicks at almost exactly the correct temperature. So I’m very confident that all the little sensors are infact functioning as marked.
In conculsion, this seems like a manufacturing defect. It’s difficult for me to understand how this unit was mass produced and this problem never seen. It could also be the way oven is situated, but it was not right up against a wall. The problem occured even with the oven out away from the wall (with back closed).
Clipping the cut-on sensor for the circulator fan to the metal that holds the clock seems like it’ll protect that clock module which contains lots of plastic.
There is an empty hole filled with an orange neon indicator holder on the other side of the right-hand oven thermostat. I don’t know what it was meant for. Both ovens have indicator lamps showing when the oven is heating, this is a third “blank”. I’d like to connect up an indicator to see when the circulator fan is running. I can’t seem to find a replacement part for an oven heating indicator lamp. It looks like relatively standard neon lamp in a slim 6-7mm package. I looked for such a part on ebay without success. Any suggestions on where to find such a small part?
Thanks for everyone’s help in solving this!
Today a friend and I opened the back of the stove.
F is the internal circulator cooling fan
RL is the righthand lamp (facing the front)
LL is the lefthand lamp
T is the cutoff thermostatI reproduced the problem by disconnecting T thus simulating an over-temperature condition, indeed the oven and clock go off no matter the temperature of the oven.
I tested the fan F by using a test lead to the hot side of RL lamp. The circulator fan functions well. This fan cools the top part of the oven so that all the wires don’t melt if it gets too hot. This isn’t a cooking fan.
I heated up the right cavity (seen from front, the one with the RL lamp in it) and after maybe 15-20 min, the circulator fan indeed comes on.
I removed the safety thermostat T from it’s holder and dangled it behind the oven so it couldn’t sense the temperature of the frame and ran the left oven. Ut heats up to temperature, but the circulator fan F does not come on. It’s as if there is some bad cross connection to that fan or some other sensor not telling the circulator fan to come on. Is there some other sensor somewhere that tells that circulator fan to come on? Where would that be? I didn’t see anything obvious.
Or maybe it could be a bad or mis-wired oven selector switch on the left hand oven? I don’t know and I would need a wiring diagram to see if that could be the case.
My previous oven, that circulator fan came on as soon as the oven went on. I was a little surprised it came on only when the righthand cavity heated up so there must be some sensor for that somewhere.
I’m fairly convinced it’s not a bad clock module. It’s not a bad temperature security cut-off. And it’s not a bad circulator fan.
The problem definitely seems to lie in whatever turns on the circulator fan when the lefthand oven heats up. Any ideas?
Would that just cut off the oven? The clock goes off as well which is what is confusing me. I wonder if there a safety thermistor somewhere…
