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Re: Water but not washing
Martin you are 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} correct.
Good call !!OK, so what now?
Can the motor/pump be replaced?
Is it economically viable, as apart from this problem the washer itself has been very good?Not obvious how to remove it but I’ve not delved too deep as yet.
Cheers
MikeRe: Belling 902 ignition
ah, there is that, sorry.
It’s an electrical fault though but I guess rules are rules 🙁
Re: Hotpoint WMA33 bearing
Bought the spider, seal and bearings from Whitegoods and they arrived today.
When I removed the old bearing, which was in a right state, I also retrieved a large spring that sat between the large bearing and the seal.
Having inserted the bearing there appears to be little room to fit the spring in the same position.I guess it might push into the seal when I drift it home but I just thought I’d check here before I bugger the seal doing something I needn’t.
Cheers
Re: Hotpoint WMA33 bearing
Many thanks for the advice, I’ll have a crack at it tomorrow and see how I get on.
The way I see it is I’ve little to lose in at least trying.
Thanks again.
BTW, plug came out days ago 😀
Re: Belling 902 / 903 ignition
Strangely and perhaps worryingly, the auto spark decided to work today.
On my inspection I found that none of the wires were loose and had tested all the terminals and switches which were all ok.
After re-assembly the spark system was not working, hence my first post.24hrs later and hey presto my better half thanks me for fixing the cooker
😯Don’t you just hate intermittant electrical problems, you just know it’s going to happen again but you don’t know when and you are even more unsure of the reason behind it 😈
Again, many thanks for your help, I feel sure I shall return 😉
Re: in-line heater test?
I resoldered the terminal on the PCB and hey presto
Hot Water
Not sure how long it’ll work for but it seems to have dealt with the last 3 days with no problem at all.
Many thanks to one and all for your help 😆
Re: in-line heater test?
Thx Dave
But £70 odd is a lot of money for a £2 relay,
Perhaps I need a definition of “dry joint”
there is some slight evidence of burning/smoke on the plastic and it looks like the solder has been melted away from the terminal.
Nothing major but definatley there.Re: in-line heater test?
My previous look at the pcb was, I admit, less thorough that it could have been. 😳
This time I removed all the wires and removed the pcb from the plastic housing and sure enough there is a burnt out terminal
This is right under the NAIS JS1-12V AJS1311 10A 125V~ Relay 😀
Alltogether – “I told you so” ok, ok, must do better………..
Talked to service force, who support AEG and they will only supply the full board at £94 plus they say it will be 10 days before they get one in.:x
Rs list a very similar relay for £1.27 at
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/subRangeAction.do?catoid=-1600755194&logText=ya014&cacheID=uknetscapeWill this do it or is there a better way?
Re: in-line heater test?
Checked the pcb and all looks ok, nothing discoloured and those obvious conections all tested ok on the meter.
The neutral wire is dead easy it runs from the main power lead to that filter thing, to the pressure switch to the heater.
Continuity check makes my meter sing so thats seems fine.Tell me more about this earth leakage – how can I test for it?
(now filling up the bath with washing up 😯 )
Re: in-line heater test?
Hi guys,
Still alive – 8)
Have traced the wires now and can’t find anything that looks dodgy.
All the tests seem to lead back to the heater unit again.
Power is getting to it so is it possible for a heater to fail and still give a good static reading?
The heater itself is supposed to have an internal cutout – how does these usually work, a bi-metalic strip of somekind?
there are no obvious signs externally.
Re: in-line heater test?
ok, just one more then, 😀
Just put it all back together just to check if I’d fixed it without knowing and guess what?
I haddn’t 😥
Ran the meter through the block connector to the heater again and got the following.
Terminal a to earth = 235 volts
Terminal b to earth = 35 volts
Terminal a to b = 60 voltsNot sure what this means but it doesn’t look right to me somehow.
Thanks for your patience
Re: in-line heater test?
😳 😳 😳
Just had a closer look at the wires running to the above relay.
Three double terminals,
One for earthing the whole machine,
One takes the main power live and the other the main power neutral.So reversing my original hypothosis,
Power comes into the machine from the plug to the relay above.
The main neutral runs to the pressure switch but is hard wired to a thick blue wire that goes upto the main on/off switch.
The washing is mounting up so I really need to get to the bottom of this 😯
So in short,
I’ll dig a bit deeper.😆
Re: in-line heater test?
OK, a bit more in the saga,
two thickish wires run down from the main power switch on the fron panel to what I’ve incorrectly called a relay as its really just a pressure switch.
One of these power feeds is hard connected to a feed direct to the heater.
The other goes to one side of the pressure switch and when pressure is applied it trips over and this wire runs to the RELAY (hope I got it right this time 😳 ) shown below.There are six wires into it (two of which are earths) but the terminals appear to be paired up.
How can I test this relay works?
