[Mutttley]

Re: ISE 5, (serial number begins 0061) Error code E01

As promised, update on the fix.
Part arrived this morning, taking a little longer than I’d expected, but I did choose the cheapest delivery method. The part is identical to the one removed from the machine, so fitting it is easy. The hardest part is getting the door seal properly re-engaged all round the opening in the machine front.
Machine is now on its second load, the fix seems to have done the job :tup:
Being nosey, I decided to disassemble the failed lock switch. This is not easy, as it was (fairly reasonably) not meant to be disassembled. Once inside, the failure is seen to be caused by part of the resin switch casing suffering from the repeated heat loads of the lock mechanism, as explained by electrofix up above. The resin posts that held the heated block in place had eventually charred and crumbled, allowing the element to move back to the point where it could no longer activate the over-center spring. Possibly fixable, but getting the switch apart was risky, and I was lucky to not break anything. Only one place where there is danger of pingfsckit, and that’s on the latch slider itself, where the return spring is likely to fly once the switch body has been removed.
It has given over ten years of service, so I’m not saying it owes us anything. Thank goodness for error codes that narrow down the failure location too 🙂

[Mutttley]

Re: ISE 5, (serial number begins 0061) Error code E01

Thanks for the explanation. I’ve ordered the part from the site shop, and will get back once I’ve fitted it. I’m glad it’s so easy to get the front off the ISE 5, as there wasn’t enough slack in the wiring to get the switch out just by removing the door/drum seal.

[Mutttley]

Re: Whirlpool AWM 328 dishwasher – lower spray bar

OK, so I’m an idiot – I should have remembered that you have a lot of spares already listed in the shop and gone there. Lower spray bar now ordered.

Any news on when the ISE dishwasher is likely to be available?

[Mutttley]

Re: Whirlpool ADP 9520 dishwhsr – lower spray bar (was AWM

Any joy in finding parts here? I’ve a bodge in place (using a neoprene o-ring to hold the clip together) and I’d like the machine to last until the new ISE dishwasher is available.

Any dates for this, by the way? 🙂

[Mutttley]

Re: Whirlpool ADP 9520 dishwasher – lower spray bar

:boops: Oh, the embarrassment.

That’s what happens if I’m too lazy to go and check the machine and just pull up a spreadsheet, assuming it’s all up to date.

The AWM number is indeed relevant to our old washing machine, since replaced with an ISE 5 (he said, trying to curry favour).

Dishwasher model number and maintenance code:
ADP 9520/1 WH
8542 952 15110 33 9724 004842

Thanks 😳

[Mutttley]

Re: Synchronous motor timer for a water softener needed

Thanks: I hadn’t thought of motorised valves as a source of supply, but of course a synchronous motor will turn at a speed set by the supply frequency, so as long as I can uncouple the motor from the gearbox, and the pinion is the same size/number of teeth, I can just swap the motor over.

The gearbox on the timer has more reduction steps, it’s going at a lot less than 5rpm.

[Mutttley]

Re: Synchronous motor timer for a water softener needed

Thanks for the suggestion. Any help with identifying this component and suggesting a source for a spare would be most welcome.

The motor. You can see cracks in the plastic.

Motor and gearbox, from the top

From the side

From the bottom, just showing the gearbox.

The gold teeth 😀

The gears

[Mutttley]

Re: Synchronous motor timer for a water softener needed

Thanks for that – I knew there had to be a way of biasing the motors to run one way, but not what it was. Sadly spraying with All-In-One high performance spray lubricant (my teflon spray of choice) hasn’t free’d up anything. I suspect whatever was in there has broken. Quite a bit of the plastic in the motor has cracked with age. The motor casing is crimped together and is either steel or some tough aluminium alloy – I can’t persuade the crimps open.

I managed to separate the motor and gearbox – they were simply latched together.

Disassembled the gearbox ( light aluminium casing, the crimping was easy to undo) and found one of the gears had two teeth stripped. Probably happened when I was trying to persuade it to start going in the right direction.

The gear train is of varying materials – plastic, looks like phenolic resin, in the earlier gears (low-torque, closer to the motor), nylon in the next-to-last one going to metal on the output gear (there are two more gears in the timer on the softener itself). The small plastic pinion that meshed with the large nylon gear had stripped. With nothing to lose, I set about replacing the teeth using 20 thou brass rod (well, 0.5 mm but close enough for government work). This has restored the gearbox to functionality. My wife says I’ve given it gold teeth :). Pics can be posted if anyone is interested.

I started the motor with the gearbox hung by its output gear from a clamp, to bias it in the right direction. That has worked for now, but I still would like to source a replacement motor. Hen’s teeth are more common though.

Ah well, a few more months of service from the old device, at least. I want to replace it with one that works by flow-metering the volume of water softened and so only regenerates when necessary. They start at about £600 and can go to £1000. We’re on a cesspool and the softener contributes to filling it sooner than I’d like.

[Mutttley]

Re: Steam Generator iron pump: Morphy Richards Jetstream 477

I (being the Himself referred to upthread) have found that the pump will deliver a trickle if not required to lift the water out of the container and through the filter. However, I think it is defunct, I’m guessing one or both of the valves have given up. I’m not having much success getting into the pump itself, but at this point I’ve nothing to lose by getting agricultural.

There is a relatively large amount of space in the body of the appliance and anything roughly the right size could be made to fit. This is a real long shot, and a bit cheeky, but does any reader know of a spare from another appliance that might fit? All risks are mine, of course, I’m just looking to see what might be found.

I’m not impressed with the design. The steam generator is basically a separate heating chamber, fed with water by said pump, flashing it into steam which then exits to the iron. No valves anywhere, other than in the pump, so no pressure being generated. Unimpressive

[Mutttley]

Re: Whirlpoo dishwasher ADP920: Rinse aid catch crumbled

Yes, I realise that the likelyhood is slim, but it should be better here than anywhere else, and the alternative is to carry on with the bit of stick. At least the design means I can get away with a bit of stick – pushed down the hole where the spring came out, the right diameter bit of stick pops into a cutout on the lid, meaning it retains itself and aplies enough pressure to keep the rinse aid from leaking out. The duct tape is for belt-and-braces protection.

I’m more worried about the soap dispenser catch which is made out of the same plastic, and of course is operated by the machine on every wash. Can’t get away with duct tape there…

[Mutttley]

Re: Whirlpool ADP9520 – circulation issue – lessons learned

Fixed, and lessons learned in the process.

Insulation test positive, no insulation failure in pump or heater ( I assume you meant the pump, as testing the heater wouldn’t seem to prove why the pump was going slow?).

Fault came to manifest itself on all wash cycles. Wasn’t a total failure but affected quality of wash.

Then I discovered that the sides come off the machine, giving better access and vision. This allowed me to see how tightly packed everything was.

The new heater was slightly longer than the part it replaced, not in the element but the pipe that it wraps around. When replacing it from the front I had pushed the flexi hose from the sump on far enough to seal but not all the way down, so it was slightly kinked, and resting against the box that held the controller board.

I took apart all the hose connections I could, reasoning that something was coming loose when it got warm and choking the pipes. Couldn’t find anything, so reassembled it all, now pushing the sump hose all the way down the long pipe on the new heater, so that it wasn’t kinked.

Tested the machine with no covers on. It ran fine! Reassembled, and in the past few days have tested every program and all work as expected.

My guess is that the flexi hose was collapsing once the temperature got high enough, perhaps provoked by the heater pipe expanding, pushing it against the controller box. This would explain the partial choking of the circulation, and would be consistent with the sounds made by the pump trying to restart during my tests.

So what have I learned:
– make sure everything goes back to *exactly* the same places it came from.
– flexible hoses can flex in ways you didn’t expect.
– a circulation problem can by hydraulic, even if it looks electrical.
– dishwashers are built around the wash chamber, the sides can be non-structural

I now have a working dishwasher again, for which I am profoundly grateful as the washing machine has finally packed up with a nadgered main bearing, and we’re relying on the kindness of neighbours while waiting for the new ISE 5 to arrive at the local supplier – all the old ones having been sold out. This thread refers, Kate XXXXXX is my better half 🙂

[Mutttley]

Re: Whirlpool ADP9520 – circ pump stops when the water gets

Well, it isn’t simply temperature-related after all: the 70° wash cycle also runs through with no issues. Both 65° cycles stop pumping properly in the middle of the wash stage. I’m going to try taking water temperatures before and after it stops. But I can’t think what might be going wrong. This is an electronic machine, so it isn’t the cams in the timer wearing out 🙂

[Author]

Posts