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OK thanks, Dave. Really I can’t complain abut a machine that fails afer 25 years! Time for a new toy…
Just to get some closure on this thread, it was indeed the selector switch. It kind of disintegrated as I took each connector off and had obvously been fried (or grilled, probably). Fortunately the connectors were all in good shape, except their shrouds all broke up. So as I swapped each connector I wrapped it in heatshrink sleeving. I now have a fully working oven again. I couldn’t load photos to the forum to show you but they are here:
https://flic.kr/p/2m21Z3T
https://flic.kr/p/2m1RRq8Thanks Dave and KWatt.
OK Back to square 1. On the back of the cooker are 2 thermal overload devices and a resistor. I’ve now tested both devices on the bench with the aid of a hairdryer and another oven. They both work fine. Top one is a 70deg cut in and powers the fan which works fine. Bottom is a 140deg cutout and is, as it turns out, OK. May last resposne was when I was away from the cooker so couldn’t confirm what i was tellign you, but in fact my multimeter reads 0L when there is no connection and I was relyng on my memory! I can find no trace of a thermal fuse. What whitegoodsUK sold me as a thermal fuse is in fact a resistor which Dave pointed out is to control the fan speed. The old one of them is indeed faulty so still needed replacing. It has a resistance in the megohm range (should b 6k2)! I think that has failed and allowed the oven to overheat badly (until the cut out operated) while I was using the grill. So, as Dave also pointed out, the next place to look is the selector switch. It is a very hot mess! There are signs of burnout on the back two contacts. I suspect it may have failed when the cooling fan failed. Cetrainly some of the back contacts do not seem to be making properly. I’m not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} about the switch but all the other wiring looks intact. I think the best bet is to get new one of those. I’m reluctant to take the old one out first as I really need to swap 1 connector at a time. I think I’ve been down a rabbit hole because of my insistance that there was a thermal fuse.
it’s reading zero ohms, Dave, so I guess it’s faulty. Assuming its a cut out (and not a cut-in like the cooling fan device). Is there any reason why I can’t subsititute a different 250v 140degC device, since it doesn’t look like any of the options posted by Kwatt? Here are some images:
https://flic.kr/p/2kYSMyu
https://flic.kr/p/2kYTTbG
https://flic.kr/p/2kYQhSRYes, no rating plate is a PITA. Bought s/h from ebay and I suspect it may be a bit of a Frakenstein! But it is basically an A1.
Thanks for weighing in everybody.
Neil
OK. There is 1 more thermostat reading 0 ohm. It’s inscribed L140-20C, so I assume its should normally closed then opens at 140deg C. But it doesn’t look like any I can see in that it is mounted direct to the back plate with a threaded stud. Most on the net have 2 wings but I suppose I could drill a couple of mounting screw holes. Full inscription is 84T31 L140-20C 48032 J9711. Its a Kema. Slightly reluctant to not replace like for like…
Thnaks both of you. The rating plate is missing and I bought it s/h, but from looking at ll the manuals I’m pretty sure its an A1 with no extra numbers. 5 burners, offset spit drive. It makes sense that there’s a resistor to control fan speed especially as its clamped to the cooling fan thermostat! Bascially I was going by the website which offered me what turns out to be a resisitor but was clearly described as a thermal fuse! At that point I stopped searching the guts of the cooker but will now have another look.
