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Re: Bosch WFLI2440GB Not Filling
I don’t have access to technical specs, being a consumer, but the fact that you are still getting continuity does not mean the solenoid is working. In fact, it could well be shorted.
I have an Aquastop machine, but am not at home until late on Friday – will measure resistance on my working Aquastop and let you know then, if it helps.
Re: Bosch WFR2868GB/05 bearing replacement
Don’t disagree in the least. In fact, if I could find a competent person here in Milan I would not mind paying them to get my weekend back. I called a few, and none of them would touch a UK-numbered machine…
Thanks for the insights. It did occur to me that buying and fitting a whole new rear tub might be the way to go, but carrying it as hand baggage was bound to raise a few questions at Heathrow.
Re: Bosch WFR2868GB/05 bearing replacement
That’s interesting. Gives me a good base with which to challenge quotes from now on… 😉
Re: Bosch WFR2868GB/05 bearing replacement
Thanks very much for the help. The seal had gone, and the inner bearing was nicely rusting up. Everything now sorted, and machine running fine.
For anyone who wants to try this on their own – a few pointers in semi-random order:
0. Unplug the machine before you do anything else – there’s exposed live wiring right next to the top cover!
1. You’ll practically need to strip the whole machine down. The only things left in place by the time I had the bearings out were the pump, the inlet valves, the drain pipe and a few electrical bits. Everything else has to come off.
2. When removing the control panel, unclip all the wiring but don’t remove the module from its casing – you only need to unclip a couple of fasteners to remove the brown wires on the bottom. On the other hand, there’s static electricity-sensitive parts inside, and you run the risk of breaking them if you open the thing.
3. Before undoing the steel strap that retains the concrete weight at the front, use a felt-tip pen to mark how tight the strap is – it’s a lot tighter than you think once you put it back!
4. Removing the tub will probably need the help of someone else to unclip the suspension springs (the same for putting it back). Apart from that, everything else can be managed by one (swearing) person.
5. The motor comes off once you have removed the two bolts at the back, the wiring (including the cable tie!) and the drive belt. It’s very stiff, but it comes off just by pulling it towards you through the back.
6. Instead of snapping the tabs, I ground them off with a Dremel. This meant I avoided breaking them in odd ways (the only one I snapped did not break cleanly). It was also quite quick.
7. To replace the bearings quickly and cleanly a hydraulic press is best. Ask your local engine rebuild if they can help you. Doing it manually is downright a pain in the neck (guess what I did…). Don’t even THINK of doing this if you have never replaced a large, tightly fitted bearing before and you don’t have the right tools.
8. The drum/shaft was a tight fit when coming off, because the failed bearing grease had created a sticky layer on the contact areas. Removing that with a little very fine sandpaper and some lubrication at refit meant the shaft slid in and out the new bearings without any problem whatsoever; so much so that I had to fix it in place using the wheel and bolt when putting the drum back together.
9. When putting things back, if you have removed the detergent inlet and sump drain rubber connectors, it’s easier if you secure those while the tub is out of the casing, leaving only the connection to the pump and that to the detergent drawer for later.
10. Careful when tightening the screws holding the lock. One of mine snapped, and it was a bit of a palaver to take the snapped bit off, rebuild the mangled plastic with epoxy and find a suitable replacement screw.
11. It took me a day and a half (not counting bearing removal and the screw mishap). Some of this was because I took the opportunity to clean thoroughly most of the insides, some because I was finding my way around, but I doubt even someone proficient in the job and with all the right tools would take much less than a full day.
12. Tools needed: Torx bits/screwdrivers (10, 15, 20, 25, 30); hex sockets/keys (8, 10, 13); grips or pliers; flat blade screwdrivers; something to cut/grind the tabs with, mallet (ideally rubber, or joined to a hard wood/rubber block if using metal), bearing puller/extractor (for the brave – bearing external diameters are 60 and 72mm).
13. Consumables/materials: new seal and bearings; silicone grease; cable ties; 6 screws 6×40 with flat head and 12 mm washers, silicone sealant, loads of clean rags (especially if the bearing has failed and there’s grease mixed with rust all over the place).
Good luck!
