[oneiota]

Re: Ariston double oven – clean but producing cooking fumes

Kwatt, thanks for your advice again. I’ll give that a try.

[oneiota]

Re: Ariston double oven – clean but producing cooking fumes

Thanks again.

No, they aren’t catalytic liners – I’ve checked. This is a much lower spec oven. I suspect that’s the problem – it’s simply poor quality.

Nevertheless, if you have any suggestions I’m all ears.

[oneiota]

Re: Ariston double oven – clean but producing cooking fumes

Thanks for your reply.

I don’t know if it has catalytic liners. I am looking for a document which would answer this type of question: if it gave a list and diagram of internal parts, that would be most useful.

[oneiota]

Re: Thermostat light cover – Ariston DOV317 Double Oven

Okay, I’ve looked again at the existing cover which had fallen out. It’s actually not broken as I had believed previously believed, but must have come unplugged from a light on a wire (or similar) inside the panel.

I don’t need a new one – I just need to plug the old one back in.

New question: How hard is it to open the upper front panel on this oven?

[oneiota]

Re: Thermostat light cover – Ariston DOV317 Double Oven

Thanks for the part number Penguin 45!

Here is what it looks like:

Does anyone know how to replace it? Once they fall out, it’s not apparent how they ever managed to be ‘in’ – perhaps this will ring a bell for someone.

[oneiota]

Re: oil spots on clothes – Zanussi wjs 1265 W

I think that decides it. I don’t wish to make an expensive repair on a machine of low value/quality so I would replace it if the drum bearing is going.

Can you think of any test which I could do in order to determine that it is indeed the drum bearing? Or anything that could increase the likelihood of this possible conclusion? Or are there any other possible causes that I can eliminate?

Thanks again for your help.

P.S. Maybe you could also mention a few possible good reliable machines to consider next! 🙂

[oneiota]

Re: oil spots on clothes – Zanussi wjs 1265 W

Thank you very much for the fast feedback. I think this is a splendid forum!

I have just checked and the rubber seal is impressively clean (perhaps because I do a lot of hot washes and regular maintenance washing).

Given the difficulty removing the small stains I am inclined to think it is not bacteria.

Listening now to a final spin, I do hear more noise than there used to be. I think I had dismissed this as the machine not being properly balanced after a recent floor repair. I will re-check with a spirit level to be sure.

If it *is* the drum bearing, do you recommend having it repaired? The machine is fairly low quality and I’ve often wished I had purchased a better one in the first place so I am in two minds about it. Your opinion is welcome!

[oneiota]

Re: Ariston LS168 wont switch on

I’ve found a solution for my problem; I’ll just summarise what my symptoms were in case anyone else encounters this problem and finds this useful.

After I had an overflow of my Ariston LSI61 built-in dishwasher and cleared the blocked filter, I found that the first light (overflow error) was blinking. After some abnormal pressing of the buttons, I could eventually select a wash cycle but for any cycle attempted, the machine refused to fill with water. The motor could be heard, and it would stay in the same state (without water) until switched off and the overflow error would be blinking again.

I wondered if there could be a problem draining the dishwasher. I poured a few litres of water into the dishwasher, started it on a cycle and immediately it would drain correctly, however, it would then again revert to the motor running without filling mode, and the first light (overflow error) would be blinking.

I felt that ever since the overflow error, it was stuck in that mode and failing to reset.

I found numerous postings on the web of people with a similar problem but no reply other than the link to a site where you had to pay money and wait 14 days for reset instructions.

I followed some instructions (pasted below) on another site, which suggested that I could reset the controller by entering a test mode (not in the manual but known to engineers) and re-entering user mode. It worked perfectly, as does my dishwasher now!

I had to pull my (built-in) dishwasher out one inch to access the controls whilst the door is closed (necessary for entering the test modes). This initially involved removing two screws at the top, the panel at the bottom of the kitchen cupboards for access to the front ‘legs’, and then lowering the bottom front legs of the dishwasher enough to allow the unit to tip forward a bit – enough so that you can press the buttons with the door closed.

A series of the correct button presses allows you to enter a test mode. There is a long test mode and a short test mode, and I chose to enter the long test mode and let the full test of 20 minutes run its course. After the first few seconds of the test, I could hear the water running and the dishwasher filling! The test ran, and I entered user mode again. Now the dishwasher works!

I’ll cut-and-paste the instructions from the site I found in case anyone else finds them of use. They are long-winded and will cover all sorts of other situations, but what I understood was that to solve my own problem (need to reset the controller) I only needed to 1) enter a test mode and 2) exit a test mode (back into user mode).

I’ll use the other tests in future if I ever need to.

Catherine

———————————-

MACHINE OVERVIEW

On the top of the door at the right-hand end is a row of four program
indicator lights, a program selector button (P) and a power switch. One
of the program indicator lights will illuminate depending upon the wash
cycle selected. At the end of the wash cycle the light will flash slowly
(about once a second.)

FAULT CODES
The program indicator lights have another function, which is not seen in
normal machine operation. When the electronic control system detects a
fault with the machine one of the lights will flash rapidly. If a
problem occurs with the machine then the fault can usually be determined
from the fault code displayed. The four program indicator lights
display a four-digit binary code. If a light in on then a “1” is
indicated. If a light is off then a “0” is indicated. For example, if
the lights are OFF-OFF-ON-OFF then a binary code of 0010 is being
displayed.

Fault codes are as follows:

No Program Code Fault condition
1 Heavy wash 1000 Operation of flood
protection system
2 Normal wash 0100 Heating
element/Thermistor/Thermostat fault
3 Rapid wash 0010 Drain pump fault or drain
blockage
4 Soak wash 0001 Not filling to correct
level within 6 minutes

Note: The light will flash rapidly to indicate a fault-do not confuse
with the slow flashing light that indicates the end of a User Wash
program.

TEST MODES

The Electronic Control Systems also incorporate a couple of Test Modes,
normally only accessible by Ariston or Indesit Engineers.
There are two Test Modes: Short and Long. In the short Test Mode it is
possible to manually activate individual machine functons. In the long
test mode manual activation of functions is not possible-the test is
completely automatic.
To enter either Test Mode it must be possible to access both the program
and power buttons with the machine door closed. To do this the machine
must be released from its housing and eased forward about an inch.

To enter a Test Mode:

Set the machine to OFF with the door closed.
Press and continuously hold the “P” key, then operate the power button
in the sequence ON-OFF-ON.
The left hand light will momentarily flash, ie code 1000. This confirms
entry into the test mode. (If entry is not accepted, ie no flash, then
power off and try again)
Within 1 second of the above release and repeatedly press the “P” key,
allowing no more than 1 second between key presses:

3 key presses gives a code of 0010. This is the Long Test
4 key presses gives a code of 1010. This is the short Test Mode
If you press the key too many times then keep going until either 0010 or
1010 is displayed.

Short test procedure

If you have selected the short test procedure (1010) then:
· The machine will fill to the level switch
· The wash pump will start.
· The heater will then run for about 5 seconds
· The machine will then stop after about 50s with both heavy and
normal wash lights flashing

After the above has completed each single press of the P button will
activate different functions of the dishwasher. The program selection
lights will illuminate to indicate the function currently activated:

No Code Function
1 1000 Fill solenoid valve
2 0100 wash pump
3 1100 Heating element
4 0010 Detergent/Rinse aid dispenser
5 1010 I/Sol regen
6 0110 Drain pump
7 1110 Fill Sol
8 1100 End of short test (1100 will flash)
9 0000 Returns the machine to user mode

To exit the short test procedure during the test hold down the P button
and switch the power button to off-This resets the machine to user mode.

Long Test Procedure

If you have selected Long test procedure (0010) then:
· The machine will fill to the level switch
· Wash pump will start
· Wash pump stops and detergent dispenser operates
· Wash pump runs and heater heats to 60 deg c
· Drain pump operates
· Fills to level switch
· Rinses
· Drains
· End of test cycle (1100 Flashes)

The long Test Procedure will run for around 20 minutes.
To exit the long test procedure during the test hold down the P button
and switch the power button to off-This resets the machine to user mode.

Note: Remember to open the door to select a user wash program or to
cancel a user wash program!

[oneiota]

Re: Ariston LS168 wont switch on

I am also haveing this problem with my built-in LSI61 dishwasher after an overflow. I know the machine is draining well as I can I manually fill it with water and turn it on and it will drain, but that’s all it will do. I can’t reset the overfill error.

If you had any success in performing a reset after your machine backfilled, I would be interested in hearing what steps were taken!

[Author]

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