[pattom62]

Re: Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher DW920 – Dried Food on Dishes

Just an update – Help!!!

I have no idea what is wrong, unless the whole machine is just worn out, 10 years isn’t bad I suppose…

[pattom62]

Re: Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher DW920 – Dried Food on Dishes

Looks like everyone’s on holidays, and I’m getting desperate…

Can someone tell me the cycles of a Dishwasher? This thing just has a digital readout which tells how long it has to go, nothing else.

My guess:

Fill – level monitored by current on Circ Pump
(my problem is the fill shuts off too early – low water level)
Fill Shut Off
Water heated by element
Circ pump circulates water / washes dishes
Drain: Dirty water pumped to drain
Rinse: (Repeat Fill Cycle & Circulation)
Drain:
Dry

Thats it?

I think my problem is relating to lack of/low water level rinse cycle?

There is not much of a filter in these, a perforated circular mesh thing about 12″ diameter, and a coarse plastic strainer on the inlet to the pump, there is nothing to get out food particles that I can see…

Pump & Motor costs $A180 / new DW is about $600…

any ideas?

[pattom62]

Re: FP SmartDrive Bearing Replacement > Difficulty Rating

Simmo,

Glad it has all came up good, they are impressively made.

You gotta love those ‘Fitters and Turners’
No one knows what they do, but they come in pretty handy!

(I am one too, that’s why I had the part to fit the bearing!)

Thanks for the reply – glad life in the laundry is back to normal!

[pattom62]

Re: FP SmartDrive Bearing Replacement > Difficulty Rating

Hi Simmo,

It’s been a while since I did this job – so I’m digging into the memory bank a little.

It’s really easy to get the lid off the machine – so you can do most things from the top as I recall. Like I said, I was impressed how FP made the thing to snap together.

The seal was a special unit – i got it from a Washing Machine spare parts place and it was inexpensive. The repair did last and the machine in is still in use today.

But I must warn you – getting the bearing in was difficult to drive in squarely etc. I was lucky to have some pipe that was the right size.

Good luck with the job, I remember it was easy enough, just getting the bearing back in was the riskiest part. If your having problems, possibly know when to stop so you don’t damage anything. An engineering shop or washing repair place will have the proper tools.

Glad to have helped someone – this website is really wonderful, and WOW – doesn’t washing pile up quick!

[pattom62]

Re: Fisher Paykel Smart Drive 058 Diagnostic Code 00101100

OK!

Replaced the pump TRIAC on the main board.

Original Part #: BT136, has max voltage of 500V. Local supplier only had BT137 – which looks like it is only different in max voltage of 600V.

Pump no longer runs when machine plugged into supply socket – success! It also runs when it should!

Machine currently on spin cycle – so hopefully will be OK now.

Think the fault on this machine was Triac goes short circuit-running pump all the time, pump gets hot, burns out, also blew fuse on main board.

Thanks for a great site, might have solved my own problem this time – but you guys have certainly helped me many times!

Thanks again!

[pattom62]

Re: Fisher Paykel Smart Drive 058 Diagnostic Code 00101100

OK, might just save Penguin45 a reply here – have a brainwave and think the triac that controls the pump is shot.

I’ll unsolder it and replace it – and let you know the result.

From some other replies – it looks like this might be the culprit.

back soon…

[pattom62]

Re: Fisher Paykel Smart Drive 058 Diagnostic Code 00101100

Hi,

I have the same problem with code 00101100 (Fault# 44?).

When the machine is turned on at the wall – the pump runs, so the feed is going directly to the pump – not getting switched off by the triac or transister perhaps?

This happens before the power button on the machine is pressed – there is no lights at the control panel.

the original pump burnt out and I just spent $80 on a new one…so I’m keen to make it work!

I am guessing that whatever the original problem was before the pump burnt out is still there.

I checked the outlet line – seems clear and free of blockages.

The lid switch and out of balance switch are ok.

I had to replace the fuse on the computer board as part of the pump replacement as it had blown – so I’m thinking I might be able to replace other circuit board parts – if you can tell me which ones?

Thanks

[pattom62]

Re: FP SmartDrive Bearing Replacement > Difficulty Rating

OK, no replies – so I’ll tell you how I did it.

I must say I am very impressed with the construction of the Fisher Paykel. You can see how it is made to snap together in the factory easily – and this generally relates to the machine mechanic as well.

I took the control panel and top section / deck off – this seemed to be logical as the base is connected on a one-way clip arrangement.

When the deck is removed, you can unclip the cover that locks together the inner and outer drums. Remove the center drum by unscrewing the three screws at the bottom of the drum.

Then was a relatively simple matter of removing the suspension assemblies from each corner and removing the center barrel, complete with motor and pump.

There is a plastic nut on the bottom of the motor which, as you undo it will remove the rotor section of the motor. Be careful with this as you don’t want to crack the magnets inside.

Note the positions of the three colored wires connecting the stator and the remove the multi-pin connector. Remove the four screws retaining the stator and place it safely!

You can then access the locking nut, grip the shaft without damagin gthe spline and remove the retaining nut. Knock the shaft out, forward. Remove the bearings.

The bearings are 6005 2RS C3 (25mm ID x 47mm OD x 12mm Wide), (2x) and the special shaft seal. I got a kit at the local repair shop, (2x) bearings, shaft seal and spacer for $A40. Reckon thats a good deal!

The hardest part of the job was actually fitting the bearing to the outer barrel – the top one. It was difficult to get the bearing into the housing squarely – I was lucky to have a piece of pipe that matched the OD of the bearing – and using some threaded rod, drew it into place.

I WOULD TELL ANYONE CONTEMPLATING DOING THIS – MAKE SURE YOU CAN FIT THE 47mm OD BEARING WITH A SOCKET/ PIPE ETC. It is quite difficult to get it square in the plastic bore – plus the difficulty of working inside the drum.

The shaft was scored from the seal, and I was contemplating getting a “speedi-sleeve” made by Chicago Rawhide to go over the worn areas. Since the bearings and seals were cheap enough – I’ll give it a go and see how long it lasts.

All in all, it is a good job, thanks in part to the design. Assembly was more difficult than dissassembly – so have something to drive the bearings in.

Lubricated the suspension rod seat with graphite as they were showing signs of wear.

So far so good hope this info may be handy to someone out there

Pattom!

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