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Thanks, Dave.

I finally worked out where the serial number was! It was inside the frame when I pulled out the storage drawer, so I believe I’ve finally ordered the right part.

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I’ve realised that the 2-beep error code coming from my current dishwasher signify either “sink outlet is blocked” or “drain hose is not correctly laid” (according to the manual). So a new dishwasher might not actually resolve the issue.

Problem is, I can’t find any evidence of a blockage in the outlet. The sink is draining perfectly normally.

Is it possible that a component has failed rather than there’s actually a blockage/hose issue?

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Thanks again, Dave.

It’s run twice now without a problem but I’ll do a thorough clean of all the door seals etc and keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks for being so helpful as always.

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Thanks, Dave.

I took the side panels off and located the leak prevention float (looked like a rectangle of polystyrene in the middle of the base). There was about 1-2mm of water around it.

I sponged out as much water as I could and ran a pre-wash programme without the covers on. I couldn’t see any sign of a leak, although I did notice that there is a sort of outlet pipe that led down into the base (some sort of overflow?). Could that have let water out at some point?

Anyway, I put the covers back on and ran a full programme. No error beeps this time.

So I’m not sure if I have solved the problem, as I don’t know what caused the water in the base, but for the time being it is running okay.

Thanks again for all your help.

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Thanks Dave. Could it be blocked by something then? Is it possible for me to access the leak prevention system and make sure it’s all clear and that the float is all fine?

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Thanks, Dave. Will give it a go. If the pump is seized up, can I fix it?

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Thanks, Dave.

I have a multimeter. Do I need to check continuity through the switch?

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No, no sound at all.

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Just carried out the cable repair. You were right! That fixed the dry/vacuum button straightaway. Thanks so much.

However, the wet spray button is still not functioning. Any ideas what could be kaput?

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Great. Thanks, Dave.

I’ve got the George, not the Henry, hence there’s no internal cable reel. But will the same principle apply?

I ask also because the wet pump switch is completely inoperative at the moment whilst the dry vacuum switch works intermittently, so I’d assumed it was something other than just loose contacts.

In the meantime, I’ll try what you said anyway. Thanks so much for your help.

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Re: Hotpoint BHWD129 washer dryer – door stuck

Thanks, Dave.

Actually, I ended up getting the Miele and relocating the machine to a place where it could be freestanding.

I couldn’t bear the idea of either paying through my teeth for an integrated machine, or getting an inferior brand to Miele. I’ve had 3 machines break down on me in the last 2 years, so I’m sick of buying cheap and paying dear.

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Re: Hotpoint BHWD129 washer dryer – door stuck

Thanks, I’ll look at these.

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Re: Hotpoint BHWD129 washer dryer – door stuck

Thanks for your reply.

Turns out the freestanding machine I was looking at won’t fit in my kitchen unit (and the only integrated model Miele make is over £1300)… so back to the drawing board.

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Re: Hotpoint BHWD129 washer dryer – door stuck

Thanks. That’s me pretty much decided, then.

What is the accepted thinking on which are the best value Miele models? (Should I start a different thread on this?)

I was considering the WDA210 because it is not astronomically priced (compared to their top-end models) and because Miele are currently extending the warranty to 10 years on this model.

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Re: Hotpoint BHWD129 washer dryer – door stuck

I’ve almost got my credit card out!

Just one thing… the old machine is integrated. Miele appear to make only 1 or 2 integrated models and they’re a lot more expensive than, say, the WDA210.

So is it okay to put a free-standing machine in the place of an integrated one?

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