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RustySkull
Participantandyjawa wrote:Main pcboard is usually the cause of the problem from, I have to say, my fairly limited experience of Samsung. I had one not so long ago do exactly the same as you describe. The only caveat is when it went wrong the door remains locked but it your machine fails and you can open the door try a new door lock first but it could be both parts at fault though that is unlikely.
Thank you Andy,
The door is still locked when it does the problem.
Are the boards easy to change on these? Never had to work on this one yet. Simple change over I assume?RustySkull
Participantelectrofix wrote:Lg wont be helpful. no manufacturer will give you this info. they are worried about getting sued if you hurt yourself
your model is correct if you miss the FK off the beginning
if you look at the pic of the power board i have arrowed the main output caps. these degrade over time. most of the time when they fail the top of them starts to bulge. so remove the back and check
beware the 2 large capacitors are charged at 300 volts and may not discharge. so its possible to get a shock off them even though its unpluggedDave
Thanks Dave,
I took it apart to see which caps I needed and then put it back together, turned it on out of curiosity and it worked and seems to be working still now (Touch wood)Perhaps dust was the cause… Who knows lol.
RustySkull
Participantelectrofix wrote:model ?
Dave
I’ve found a Power supply board on eBay for £12, I’ve ordered that. I was going to replace the caps but seen as a board is only £12, might as well change the whole lot…
RustySkull
ParticipantHold on I’ve FK42LK450U, but LG don’t seem very helpful.
RustySkull
Participantelectrofix wrote:model ?
Dave
Well Dave,
The only sticker on it is the serial number, 108WRVZ1J935RustySkull
Participantelectrofix wrote:will probably be the capacitors on the power board.
not an uncommon faultDave
Thanks Dave, do you know where I can get a schematic for LG TVs? LG maybe?
RustySkull
Participantelectrofix wrote:its an odd noise and not one i have heard. difficult to diagnose unless you are standing nex to the machine as then you can figure out where in the machine its coming from
Dave
Yeah I know what you mean, thanks anyway 🙂
RustySkull
Participantelectrofix wrote:at a month old i would approach the retailer and push to get it sorted or swopped
Dave
Hello Dave,
That’s what they’re doing but they have looked at it and said they have never seen this issue before.
Just wondering if anyone on here has?RustySkull
ParticipantRe: Beko DFN05R10B Not Filling
Yeah the drain pump doesn’t seem to work. It’s free and looks good when I removed it though. Doesn’t matter now I wanted to fix it asap and their engineers couldn’t get to me within 2 weeks, but now they’re coming next week so time to make use of the Guarantee lol. ???
RustySkull
ParticipantRe: Samsung EcoBubble Washing Machine Help Please
Alright, well thanks everyone I appreciate it 😉
RustySkull
ParticipantRe: Samsung EcoBubble Washing Machine Help Please
kwatt wrote:I can’t see how your machine could cause that as the valve simply opens and closes, like a tap pretty much and doesn’t do much of anything else.
K.
Haha yeah I know…Martin wrote:The plumber is talking porkies, water pipes shouldn’t bang. If they do they should be secured to the wall correctly and the fixings evenly spaced, especially behind boarded panels/tiling.
That said, what you could do to improve the situation is to turn the stop cock that feeds the machine down. The typical blue lever gate valve needs the lever turning at least by 45 degrees to reduce the flow, thus reducing the likelyhood of your floppy pipes banging.
🙂
Yeah I mean, I have looked at the pipes myself also, but only some of them, the plumber was here to do other work but looked at the pipes while he was here as it was those he had to make some changes to. I know they shouldn’t bang, but how comes the Dishwasher which is on the same line doesn’t do it, neither did the old machine?
RustySkull
ParticipantRe: Bosch Dishwasher Problems
Martin wrote:I refer to the PCB on the Control Module. In the trade we replace the complete unit. If you intend buying one from eBay do be certain sure you get the correct unit for the model you have recently discovered. (Buying control units from 3rd party sources is a risky business)…. Just saying.
Well, I have found this one on Qualtex http://www.qualtexuk.com/trade/product/default.aspx?act=s&part=BSH644121
But I’m still not sure it it’s the right one, it looks the same, kinda… I’m not familiar with Dishwashers I usually deal with Vacuum’s and Lawn Mowers haha.RustySkull
ParticipantRe: Bosch Dishwasher Problems
Martin wrote:
RustySkull wrote:
Do you have any idea on what could be causing the issue?It is not uncommon for a dispenser solenoid to go faulty and pop the triac on the PCB. (Little black square device looks a bit like a transistor. When faulty they blow up).
Ahh okey! That’s something I haven’t looked at, so can these be replaced and where is it?RustySkull
ParticipantRe: Bosch Dishwasher Problems
I’ve found the serial number now it’s SR55C02GB/01 but I can’t seem to find the right Control Module for this…
RustySkull
ParticipantRe: Bosch Dishwasher Problems
electrofix wrote:a lot of Bosch dishwashers have a clear label on the top of the door, by the door catch. on the stainless part
to see it you have to view it slightly to the side as it looks invisibleDave
Thanks, It is very warn off but it’s just about visible with a torch on it!timdowning wrote:I would just throw an all in 1 tablet in the cutlery basket. You should get a perfectly good wash.
Its best not to have salt or rinse aid in the machine as the tablet has all you need.That’s what we’ve been doing but I’m the sort that likes things to work as they’re suppose to lol.
Do you have any idea on what could be causing the issue?
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